brake booster for 1970 300

gransedan

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Hi,
I'm looking to buy a brake booster from rockauto for my 1970 300 vert.
The cardone boosters rock auto offers are for drums in front. At least thats what they mention. But the chrysler has disks in front.

I remember years ago when i bought one for another 1970 300 i did buy one of another year.

Maybe one of you know which one is best to buy. Maybe the PRIOR ones?
I want to buy one in combination with a master cylinder.

Thanks in Advance and keep'em rolling...

Pieter
 
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You are going to need the Bendix double diaphragm booster that came as original equipment on the C-Bodied disc brake cars 68-71 on most models. Cardone boosters are mostly crap. If this is a disc conversion, you will probably need to locate a core booster and have it rebuilt as these units are no longer generally in stock. Otherwise take your existing unit to a good rebuilder and have it rebuilt.

Dave
 
Cardone boosters are mostly crap. Otherwise take your existing unit to a good rebuilder and have it rebuilt.

Dave
I think this is probably true for most or all of their parts. I like the rebuild idea. A good rebuilder will make it look and function like it did when new.
 
I actually bought the Rockauto unit for my 70-300 with factory disc brakes. Fit great works ...ok. I bought the booster and master together. Brake pedal feels soft to me but car stops ok.
 
Thanks guys for the reply’s.
If rockauto offers something, are you able to mention a brand and a product number? Do they offer double diagram that will fit? I remember i had to dril 2 holes to fit the on I bought years ago..... thanks again
 
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Weird Rockauto is no longer showing the booster/mc combo for the 70-300 with discs...I will see if I can dig up my old invoice for a part #
 
Those needing a rebuilt dual diaphragm booster off the shelf are out of luck and will need to find a good core to rebuild. All the cores of dual diaphragm design are all used up in terms of rebuilders' availability - too many were never returned as cores. So here we are. The last ones to be available were the kind of round ones used in the later 1972-3 Imperials that replaced the bendix ones.
 
I believe it looks like this
IMG_3038.JPG
 
I'm now looking at boosters because I need to replace the master cylinder and also want to be ready when the booster no longer boosts. I believe my booster is the original unit, it even has the "85" sticker on the front, and retains its original golden zinc dichromate finish.
Do boosters have any warning signs before they go? The only thing with mine, that I notice, is that it doesn't hold vacuum once the engine is off. It's always done this and seems to work fine otherwise.

I too looked at rockauto, and the only one that's available now is from Crapdone (no thanks, even if it were free). It even says it's the single diaphragm type, not sure if the dual diaphragm was still in use in '73...?

Rockauto also offers a rebuild service from "PRIOR"....who the heck are they?

Anybody ever rebuild one of these units? Are there kits? How to you get them apart?

If possible, would like to rebuild mine, preserve its finish, and keep it original. Or find a nice core to do the same...

Thanks, 73
 
I'm now looking at boosters because I need to replace the master cylinder and also want to be ready when the booster no longer boosts. I believe my booster is the original unit, it even has the "85" sticker on the front, and retains its original golden zinc dichromate finish.
Do boosters have any warning signs before they go? The only thing with mine, that I notice, is that it doesn't hold vacuum once the engine is off. It's always done this and seems to work fine otherwise.

I too looked at rockauto, and the only one that's available now is from Crapdone (no thanks, even if it were free). It even says it's the single diaphragm type, not sure if the dual diaphragm was still in use in '73...?

Rockauto also offers a rebuild service from "PRIOR"....who the heck are they?

Anybody ever rebuild one of these units? Are there kits? How to you get them apart?

If possible, would like to rebuild mine, preserve its finish, and keep it original. Or find a nice core to do the same...

Thanks, 73
If yours isn't holding vacuum at all, remove and test the check valve... cheap and easy to get one... might even look right??? IDK what a correct NOS piece would cost, but I bet a replacement that fits is available. I wouldn't place too much faith in an old/untested piece anyhow. Also check the grommet for cracks, something should also be available to replace it.

Boosters generally don't have warning signs, but if it isn't leaking vacuum at the check valve... I would consider that as much warning as you're gonna get. If the master ever leaks into the booster, it will eventually dry out the diaphragm too.
 
When my original 70 was rebuilt, the hard plastic disc inside the booster had small chips at the end and had to be replaced with a piece from a donor. The bendix dual diaphram have become a difficult to find part as they are used in B, C and E cars, (not sure about As) I have several cores available.
 
Just as a matter of a point, I converted my car to disks well over ten years ago and am using the original, drum booster. I've had no problems. Over 30,000 miles of driving and no problems or scares. If you can't find a disk specific booster, the drum one will serve you well.

IMG_2755.JPG
 
Just as a matter of a point, I converted my car to disks well over ten years ago and am using the original, drum booster. I've had no problems. Over 30,000 miles of driving and no problems or scares. If you can't find a disk specific booster, the drum one will serve you well.

View attachment 166973

I’m in the midst of this too
The local Mopar guy tells me the same thing
Just make sure that the MC rod is the correct length
 
I know a few members here are adamant about the disc power booster and I fully appreciate it
But if there others safely using the drum booster then I’ll certainly try it out
 
"Prior" is a brake booster rebuilder. Used to be in Garland, TX. Used to hear about them in HDTruck "circles", but they apparently branched out into car stuff. "Praise Dyno Brake" is another rebuilder, too.

In the earlier years of power disc brakes, the dual diaphragm boosters were used due to the fact that disc brakes generally take more line pressure to operate, compared to drum brakes. Hence, more diaphragm area needed. But it seems like that by about '72, even the factory power disc brake set-ups were using single diaphragm boosters universally?

I would suspect that you could use any booster/master cylinder for a power disc brake C-body up to and including the '73 model year, on a '69+ C-body car? Maybe back to '65, too? Perhaps some of the street rod brake vendors have a dual diaphragm booster that'll work?

To me, compared to a power drum brake system, power disc brake systems usually have a little softer pedal feel. But they still work good when pressed.

CBODY67
 
Just as a matter of a point, I converted my car to disks well over ten years ago and am using the original, drum booster. I've had no problems. Over 30,000 miles of driving and no problems or scares. If you can't find a disk specific booster, the drum one will serve you well.
I know a few members here are adamant about the disc power booster and I fully appreciate it
But if there others safely using the drum booster then I’ll certainly try it out
"Prior" is a brake booster rebuilder. Used to be in Garland, TX. Used to hear about them in HDTruck "circles", but they apparently branched out into car stuff. "Praise Dyno Brake" is another rebuilder, too.

In the earlier years of power disc brakes, the dual diaphragm boosters were used due to the fact that disc brakes generally take more line pressure to operate, compared to drum brakes. Hence, more diaphragm area needed. But it seems like that by about '72, even the factory power disc brake set-ups were using single diaphragm boosters universally?

I would suspect that you could use any booster/master cylinder for a power disc brake C-body up to and including the '73 model year, on a '69+ C-body car? Maybe back to '65, too? Perhaps some of the street rod brake vendors have a dual diaphragm booster that'll work?

To me, compared to a power drum brake system, power disc brake systems usually have a little softer pedal feel. But they still work good when pressed.

CBODY67
Can't help it... I feel the need to chime in here...

This is all stuff you can use math to figure out in advance. Just like the principle of multiplying force in the brake system using master cylinder piston size (x) to apply caliper/wheel cylinder piston (y)... The area of the diaphragm is multiplying force in the booster. I'll let you google your own formulas.

The reason behind a dual diaphragm vs a single diaphragm is to make the diameter of the unit smaller. If your car has a dual diaphragm, I bet there isn't room for the single diaphragm equivalent. I'm speculating that later designs were given the space for a single diaphragm of sufficient size, which bring up another theory I have...

Disc brakes require more pressure to operate, but was there a consistent engineering standard of how much force required was acceptable? IDK, maybe one of our engineer members can straighten me out here, but we've all driven different cars that had different "feel" when braking.

I am thinking the force requirements to operate the systems may be why so many folks seem to "accidentally" mix and match components and report good braking... I also wonder how their cars would compare to an equivalent factory system. I do not mean to be disrespectful or argumentative about this... but there is so much about mixing brake components that would be "wrong" and present a huge liability issue for a professional shop to just bolt in something that "fit".

I do believe those owners are correct when they claim they can drive their cars reasonably with the amount of braking pressure/force they can comfortably generate. My biggest concern for them would be if they are able to generate the full pressure they need in a panic situation. If you can't lock up the brakes with a heavy application, there is a insufficient pressure for the braking the car was meant to do... please don't ruin your tires to prove me wrong.

CBODY67, "To me, compared to a power drum brake system, power disc brake systems usually have a little softer pedal feel. But they still work good when pressed."

The reason behind this feel, is the pistons of the calipers require significantly more fluid to move into contact than properly adjusted drum brakes. In later model cars that had the option of rear discs, it is somewhat common for a tech to have done brakes on the same model with drums, and then do brakes on one with 4 discs and become concerned with the "low pedal" that they hadn't bled the system adequately. The additional travel is a normal characteristic of disc brakes.
 
"Prior" is a brake booster rebuilder. Used to be in Garland, TX. Used to hear about them in HDTruck "circles", but they apparently branched out into car stuff. "Praise Dyno Brake" is another rebuilder, too.

In the earlier years of power disc brakes, the dual diaphragm boosters were used due to the fact that disc brakes generally take more line pressure to operate, compared to drum brakes. Hence, more diaphragm area needed. But it seems like that by about '72, even the factory power disc brake set-ups were using single diaphragm boosters universally?

I would suspect that you could use any booster/master cylinder for a power disc brake C-body up to and including the '73 model year, on a '69+ C-body car? Maybe back to '65, too? Perhaps some of the street rod brake vendors have a dual diaphragm booster that'll work?

To me, compared to a power drum brake system, power disc brake systems usually have a little softer pedal feel. But they still work good when pressed.

CBODY67

The mount flange for the '72 and later boosters is the same, main issue on a big block car that is '71 or older will be if the larger diameter later booster will clear the brace rod from the firewall to the front fender and the engine valve cover. The fire wall is a different design from '72 on that has more clearance.

Dave
 
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