Brake lights and turn signals

[slick72]

Hello I'm working on my 72 polara custom and I don't have brake lights or turn signals I have power to brake light switch but nothing happens if I bridge power from the two point on fuse block under steering wheel they come on any suggestions thanks in advance

 

[slick72]

Also my hazards work but not my turn signals

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

Likely a bad turn signal switch. Brake lamps run through it.

 

[CBODY67]

Emergency flasher and the signal light flasher are TWO different flashers. Both circuits go through the turn signal switch.

Check the wiring schematic in the Chrysler Factory Service Manual for your model year.

CBODY67

 

[slick72]

Likely a bad turn signal switch. Brake lamps run through it.

Thank you I will order a new one how hard are they to replace and can you take of cover for steering collum?

 

[CBODY67]

Steering wheel comes off, no need to take off covers. Might need a "lock plate depresser" tool to get the round snap ring off and re-installed when done.

CBODY67

 

[slick72]

Steering wheel comes off, no need to take off covers. Might need a "lock plate depresser" tool to get the round snap ring off and re-installed when done.

CBODY67

No I know hownto do that I meant how do you slide wires down collum

 

[CBODY67]

Typically, yes. When you unplug the connector near the center of the column, hook some smaller wire around that connector and then rotate it to be parallel with the column. Then push it into the solumn and gently pull upward on the removed switch. The connector should come out with the wire attached. Attach the new switch's connector similarly, rotate it parallel to the column and use the wire at the bottom of the column to pull the new connector through the column for connection to the body wiring harness. Then finish the job, top side.

Souinds worse that it is.

CBODT67

 

[slick72]

Typically, yes. When you unplug the connector near the center of the column, hook some smaller wire around that connector and then rotate it to be parallel with the column. Then push it into the solumn and gently pull upward on the removed switch. The connector should come out with the wire attached. Attach the new switch's connector similarly, rotate it parallel to the column and use the wire at the bottom of the column to pull the new connector through the column for connection to the body wiring harness. Then finish the job, top side.

Souinds worse that it is.

CBODT67

Alright thank you waiting on switch to come any chance you have some info on bleeding brakes got driver side loose to bleed but passenger side I can't get either loos obviously rusty and maybe it's first time having them bleed in a while but curious if there left hand thread on passenger side or somthing

 

[CBODY67]

At the assy plant, it is done by pulling a vacuum on the master cyl's brake fluid reservoirs. After the vac level is attained and stabilized, then the fluid goes in through the same fixture. Something of the same thing can be done by quickly stabbing and releasing the pedal. When the pressure is suddenly released, the "air" in the lines should seek to rise. Might take several times over several days to get the fluid level stabilized.

CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

Alright thank you waiting on switch to come any chance you have some info on bleeding brakes got driver side loose to bleed but passenger side I can't get either loos obviously rusty and maybe it's first time having them bleed in a while but curious if there left hand thread on passenger side or somthing

No left hand thread on bleeders.

Is this on a disc or drum brake?

 

[slick72]

No left hand thread on bleeders.

Is this on a disc or drum brake?

I got them all they were rusted front disc rear drums