Brakes

[Big blubber]

Ok guys got a problem I can't seem to fathom out I took my back drums of because my brakes where sticking ,I adjusted the star wheel adjuster so the drums where slightly moving .I put the wheels back on and try'd it in reverse and it was quite fierce when I braked ,But when I put it in drive to go forward it would hardly move it was dragging any ideas what's wrong it's driving me crazy dodge 150

 

[saylor]

shoes installed backwards maybe? i think there is a short side and a long side. just throwin that out there.

- saylor

 

[Big blubber]

shoes installed backwards maybe? i think there is a short side and a long side. just throwin that out there.

- saylor

Thanks for your Input yea there is a leading shoe but when I took the drum off it looked the same as the dodge book that I have so I don't think it's that but I will take it off again and post a pic so you can see I have new adjusters going to fit them maby they are seized and it's causing it to bind

 

[eyemon]

You said that your brakes were sticking. Sticking as in wouldn't release or wouldn't apply? Are you sure that the parking brake cable(s) are releasing totally so that they allow the tops of the shoes to to rest tightly against the upper anchor pin. If the parking brake cable is not releasing all the way, the shoes will be held out from the anchor pin a little bit. That situation lets the shoes move enough to activate the automatic adjusters everytime the brakes are applied (forward AND reverse) and since you've already got the shoes slightly contacting the drum the result can quickly be that the shoes are so tight against the drum that the wheel almost won't turn. Sound far fetched? It happened to me after doing a brake job
and forgetting to adjust the parking brake to rest against the top anchor pin. I took the car out for a test drive and the brake shoes adjusted tighter and tighter. I didn't notice the extra drag until I attempted to stop at a controlled intersection
and the brake pedal went clear to the floor, not slowing the car one bit! I was real lucky in that there was no through traffic as I zipped right on through that red light. The rear brakes had got so hot from dragging that the brake fluid in the
wheel cylinders had vaporized! This may not be what you're dealing with but it is a possibility especially since rear parking brake cables are notorious on older vehicles for interior corrosion and seizing enough to not release all the way. If so about the only fix that I've found is to remove the sticky cable and soak it in something like WD 40 or to just replace it. I hope this information is helpful at least. It may not be the answer in your case but might help somebody else who reads this.

 

[Big blubber]

You said that your brakes were sticking. Sticking as in wouldn't release or wouldn't apply? Are you sure that the parking brake cable(s) are releasing totally so that they allow the tops of the shoes to to rest tightly against the upper anchor pin. If the parking brake cable is not releasing all the way, the shoes will be held out from the anchor pin a little bit. That situation lets the shoes move enough to activate the automatic adjusters everytime the brakes are applied (forward AND reverse) and since you've already got the shoes slightly contacting the drum the result can quickly be that the shoes are so tight against the drum that the wheel almost won't turn. Sound far fetched? It happened to me after doing a brake job
and forgetting to adjust the parking brake to rest against the top anchor pin. I took the car out for a test drive and the brake shoes adjusted tighter and tighter. I didn't notice the extra drag until I attempted to stop at a controlled intersection
and the brake pedal went clear to the floor, not slowing the car one bit! I was real lucky in that there was no through traffic as I zipped right on through that red light. The rear brakes had got so hot from dragging that the brake fluid in the
wheel cylinders had vaporized! This may not be what you're dealing with but it is a possibility especially since rear parking brake cables are notorious on older vehicles for interior corrosion and seizing enough to not release all the way. If so about the only fix that I've found is to remove the sticky cable and soak it in something like WD 40 or to just replace it. I hope this information is helpful at least. It may not be the answer in your case but might help somebody else who reads this.

Thank you I will try anything it sounds plausible I never thought of the parking brake I don't want to take it to a garage there is not many usa mechanics about my area and when you mention a classic usa truck they run a mile

 

[Big blubber]

Ps eyemon . Sounds as if they won't release when going forward but they apply and release when going back .But quite vicious with a small squeal

 

[1970cat]

i'm with eyemon on this. when the brake cable sticks the brakes will be on when going forward but when reversing the springs on the shoes will make the shoes jump. this makes a popping or chugging when reversing. happens a lot in winter here. ice gets in the shield around the cable and when you apply the parking brake it locks up.

 

[Big blubber]

i'm with eyemon on this. when the brake cable sticks the brakes will be on when going forward but when reversing the springs on the shoes will make the shoes jump. this makes a popping or chugging when reversing. happens a lot in winter here. ice gets in the shield around the cable and when you apply the parking brake it locks up.

Ta I will spray some lube on it if that doesn't work it's a new cable I'm afraid

 

[68-300]

I don't know if you know this tool (cable luber) but it is very handy.

There are special products like Cable life and Cable lube to use with it. I've used it with great success on cars, bikes and bicycles.

 

[dude69300]

i'm with eyemon on this. when the brake cable sticks the brakes will be on when going forward but when reversing the springs on the shoes will make the shoes jump. this makes a popping or chugging when reversing. happens a lot in winter here. ice gets in the shield around the cable and when you apply the parking brake it locks up.

I would look at replacing the E brake cable, I had a similar situation with my car. The rear brakes would gradually keep expanding and not releasing, and after a short time would get the rim hot. I would loosen them and they would do it again. Replaced the cable and never had a problem again. And if you do replace it, do yourself a favor and set the brake every other time you drive to keep it free

 

[Big blubber]

I would look at replacing the E brake cable, I had a similar situation with my car. The rear brakes would gradually keep expanding and not releasing, and after a short time would get the rim hot. I would loosen them and they would do it again. Replaced the cable and never had a problem again. And if you do replace it, do yourself a favor and set the brake every other time you drive to keep it free

Not familiar with the ebrake cable is it inside the drum or on the hand brake cable s_dancing2:

 

[dude69300]

I replaced the emergency brake cable from the foot operated pedal in the car to the rear drum