C-body Rear main seal thread

[detmatt]

I took my '67 Imperial over to a friends house last night and boy was it great to actually drive the car again, drives like a dream! Especially compared to an E-body vert! Anyways my friend has a lift and is going to replace the seal for me, I'm so busy I don't even know if I'll be able to be there to help him do it.
I would like to have some definitive answers as to the process of doing it while in the car still. I know the center link of the steering needs to be dropped but does the engine need to be lifted to remove the pan?

Any tips ore tricks for leak free installation? Offset the joints in the lip seal, which sealer to use and where? Getting the top half of the old lip seal out without removing the crank. Let me know your experiences.

Also if you have any links to helpful info in other forums or websites go ahead and post them.

Thanks in advance!

 

[KcImperial]

You will need to drop the steering centerlink, unbolt motor mounts, and raise the engine if you want to get the pan out.

 

[bulldogchesty]

Good luck Matt. Keeps us in the loop.

 

[commando1]

Everything I have read to changing the seal with the engine in car was to do all the necessary steps to get to the point where you can remove the caps and force the crank down a smidge.
Remove the retainer and there is a special tool to push out the top half of the old seal and pull through a new seal.

You WILL need this.

 

[commando1]

Oh, yah. And best of luck.

 

[detmatt]

Can the rear of the crank be lowered without distorting the front seal?

 

[tallhair]

I'll be following closely Matt and wish you the best of luck

I've been debating replacing mine too

 

[commando1]

Can the rear of the crank be lowered without distorting the front seal?

Sorry, I haven't a clue. Never did it. Can only pass along what I heard.
And you know what they say about free advice...

 

[polara71]

Everything I have read to changing the seal with the engine in car was to do all the necessary steps to get to the point where you can remove the caps and force the crank down a smidge.
Remove the retainer and there is a special tool to push out the top half of the old seal and pull through a new seal.

You WILL need this.

I tried it once, leaked worse than when I started ......Yeah Matt please keep us posted. I'd love to see it work out for someone

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Matt, I used to "IN FRAME MAJOR" my Cummins engines by dropping the crank a measured amount like an 1/8th" maximum or ah little less and that's all the clearance you should need to turn+pull both halves of that rear main seal out and back in. But I know they used to do it to Detroit 6s, V8s AND V12s that way too including the Cat, 6s. Only difference iz you're working with ah 100lb V-8 crank instead of ah 350lb crank in the inline 6 diesels but all the throws in all the cranks are still off set. You're just trying to take all 8 of 'um down ah tad at the same time. If you chose to do this, start by loosening the main seal first. Then the center main cap first, then the closest to either end 2nd, then back to the closest to the center cap from the opposite end third and then back and forth 'til you have all 5 of 'um loose. After the rear main seal is out and back in, start back tightening the last main you loosened first. FYI, when you've got the rear main seal in it gets re-tighten and torqued last after all 5 mains are snugged and torqued in the reverse order that you loosened them (Last one 1st) all get snugged up first before you torq any to spec. Remember you've still got slugz in those 8 holes! You should be able to get an 1/8th" maximum gap or close on those 5 mains and you might also think about pulling the plugz and squirt ah little oil in each hole before you start loosening any main caps too. You seriously do not wanna jam 8 rodz and pistons in those borez....BTW, On ah Diesel we put the Main seal halves in that way and then all the top 'n bottom main halves, and then sleeves. and rodz 'n pistonz but the pan and headz still do get bolted up last. Any questionz give me ah shout, Jer OOOOOH BTWX2, with the 727 in there you might wanna squirt ah tad of BRIGHT COLOR rattle can somethin' on one of the four corners of the torq plate AND the converter too before you remove those four torque blotz. That paint squirt''ll help you find your way home when re-attaching everything!

 

[detmatt]

Thanks guys, I'll keep you all in the loop. Special thanks to Jer, your fingers must be sore after that one!

 

[commando1]

You got a dozen people helping you here on this Matt. Nothing can go wro.....

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

NOTHIN' CAN GO WRO..... STAN? Then why did I only get 50K out of my 1st 350 come-ah-part re-build come apartand have to be pulled down and re-build again?Seamz that two rubber "O" ringz were in there but out of place. one on the center head waz 'bout ah 1/32nd" off dead center on the head and one of the 3 sealing "O" rings on the #5 cylinder apparently didn't have enough slippery **** on it when I pressed it in the block and the O riing slipped out of it's grove and the metel to metel contact sliced it in half and that'z all it took! And we all know what happenz when we mix water and oil in an engine. And I'm still learnin' every day all tho' most timez not quite that expensive ah lesson. Jer... and thankz Matt, they are so bloody sore if she doesn't unzip me I fear I'll wet myself. AAARRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[65sporty]

what are you using for a rear main? the tools commando showed are for a rope seal, the rubber seals can be rolled in easily. if your using the rope, fit it into the main cap first, then take that piece and pull it into the block by pulling into position with the tool, and you will need to loosen main caps to put in the rope seal. there is a tool to fit the seal to the cap but a large socket will work, tap the seal in place to form it. best of luck

 

[detmatt]

I'm using a standard lip seal.

 

[commando1]

Is it done yet?

So, where are we on this?

 

[detmatt]

He may start on it today otherwise it's scheduled for Tuesday and Wednesday.

 

[65sporty]

If your using the rubber lip seal, remove the seal retainer use a small screwdriver to push on the end of the seal (upper half in block) when it starts to come out grab it with pliers and roll it down. lube the new one and roll back into place. the seal should come with a piece of plastic to protect the back of the seal from getting pealed on the block. the retainer side seals tend to leak more than the seal it self. I have seen where you pack them with silicone instead of the side seals. hope this helps and good luck

 

[72Fury]

I have fixed some really bad oil leaks on various vehicles using Loctite 518. Some that kept reappearing after using various Permatex etc sealers. This stuff is truly amazing. I buy it in a cartridge and use it with a caulk gun.

 

[1978 NYB]

It's Wednesday Matt, is the rear main done yet?

I can't wait to see your Imp at Carlisle in 6 weeks.

I already will nominate your Imp for the Survivor Car of the Show!