New to me 66 fury, and first up was carb rebuild. Afterward, ran Ok and would idle after warm. Couple minor issues, and had to pull back apart for accel pump, and then drained old gas from tank. So, after starts with new gas, will not idle......so my first thought was dirt. Hmmm, no fuel filter.....I forgot. So, now, with filter and new gas, I will try to blow out small passages and see if it will idle.....bet me. Dont forget on your carb work, to ensure you have an inline filter.....what was I not thinking.
Carb rebuild....how dumb can one get
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
Carter BBD or a Stromberg/Bendix WWC 2bbl?
With no filter, the first thing the "dirt" would encounter would be the needle and seat, where the fuel pressure would motivate the "dirt" to pass on through and into the float bowl. If hung there, it would cause the float to not be allowed to close fully, resulting in a big fuel leak, I suspect. In the float bowl, the "dirt" might settle-out and clog one of the main jets in the bottom, or the feed to the accel pump (which would be obvious with the top of the carb removed). Neither of these things would cause the issue you mention . . . BUT a vac leak might. Please keep us posted on what you discovered.
Just some respectful thoughts,
CBODY67
With no filter, the first thing the "dirt" would encounter would be the needle and seat, where the fuel pressure would motivate the "dirt" to pass on through and into the float bowl. If hung there, it would cause the float to not be allowed to close fully, resulting in a big fuel leak, I suspect. In the float bowl, the "dirt" might settle-out and clog one of the main jets in the bottom, or the feed to the accel pump (which would be obvious with the top of the carb removed). Neither of these things would cause the issue you mention . . . BUT a vac leak might. Please keep us posted on what you discovered.
Just some respectful thoughts,
CBODY67
I have attempted the easy way out today....not sure yet of results. However, it should be noted that the main jets are pretty big, and the idle circuit is pretty small, in comparison. But, at this point, I am only unhappily speculating. With this new machine, am faced with several concurrent issues that have me stymied so far.....will continue.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I've done stupid things with cars too. Seems like the more I know, the more I forget
So a bit of whining this morning. Yesterday I removed idle air screws, used cleaner and air to get things moving. So, I got it running, only to find that my early steering hydraulic valve adjust was way off, so began to fight that adjustment while running this time. All I can say is hmmm, would like to get hold of the engineer who decided this should be such a fine adjustment. So, after a bit of this, the engine quits and wont restart. So, today, review fuel and spark issues again. This thing should be like a rock.....when young, I never had to do these things twice....but may be something simple.
Triple Pickle
Senior Member
I’d go through the carb again and then gravity feed the carb with a boat gas tank to get it running. Then check the cars fuel tank to see how much gunk is in it. Also use a clear filter to see what crap is getting trapped.
twostick
Senior Member
Adjust that power steering valve with the front wheels off the ground. This removes the load off the steering box and allows you to see when you have the valve properly centered. If it's off even slightly, the steering wheel will rotate all by itself in the direction it is off. When it's right, it will stay put wherever you turn it.
Just so you know, if it is off by a lot, the steering wheel will rotate violently to full lock and tie anything that is in its spokes in a knot around the steering column. King Kong does not have the strength to stop the rotation so hands and fingers clear at all times.
I loosen the bolts just enough to allow the valve to be moved with a little assistance from a small hammer or reasonable facsimile but tight enough to stay put after the "adjustment" so you can tighten it back up and maintain its position.
Maybe 30 thousandths of an inch difference if that between centered and it rotates slowly left or right, so a light touch with the hammer is key.
Kevin
Just so you know, if it is off by a lot, the steering wheel will rotate violently to full lock and tie anything that is in its spokes in a knot around the steering column. King Kong does not have the strength to stop the rotation so hands and fingers clear at all times.
I loosen the bolts just enough to allow the valve to be moved with a little assistance from a small hammer or reasonable facsimile but tight enough to stay put after the "adjustment" so you can tighten it back up and maintain its position.
Maybe 30 thousandths of an inch difference if that between centered and it rotates slowly left or right, so a light touch with the hammer is key.
Kevin
Thank you both for great points. On the valve adjust, I added a scribe mark on the flat surface to measure my moves. And, so far, my thought is that my moves have been on the order of less than 5 mils, and have had it running, and loosen just enough for the hammer tap, with marks and light. Funny that at one point yesterday, I moved it more on first try, and then could not turn the wheel back at all, so it is an interesting challenge.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I had a stuck valve on a 1973 Dodge steering gear. The steering wheel turned all the way to the right by itself. I made no adjustments, but whacked the side of the gear with a hammer and rapped the valve with same tool. The valve unstuck and the steering was fine again.
So i pulled my steering gear on my 69 300. (never ever again). Unscrewed the lock ring. Put new worm shaft seal in and o ring. Put it back in car and filled fluid. Manually turned wheel full left and right to make sure it was full.
When i started car, steering threw me out of the car by turning left on its own. Could not move it so i shut down, added more fluid, same thing.
Manually turned wheel full right and started car. Still turned left but i could hold it. Fluid still full.
Is this to be expected when you empty the system?
My only comment is, that when I was adjusting mine, when I got too far one way, it would not move at all....could not move the wheel. Thought I was going in right direction, but no. Too far and it locks up. And, it does not take much. Have not heard that you adjusted the valve???
I didnt adjust anything and it worked fine before the new seal. Didnt see the point in changing anything.
Seems to get better everytime i try. Gonna check the centering valve first.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Did you turn the wheel manually with the engine off?
Rebuilt steering gear: I had to fill the pump reservoir, start the car, and have my wife turn the wheel fully side to side several times to get the steering gear fully bled. I added fluid as the pump level went down.
Im going back to the FSM. Ithink the gear is bad.
Not running i have about half a steering wheel turn free play. Running i can only estimate 12 ".
I loosed and tapped on valve. I can turn left easy but not right. Valve wont go anymore forward.
I tried to adjust gear and nothing changed.
Not running i have about half a steering wheel turn free play. Running i can only estimate 12 ".
I loosed and tapped on valve. I can turn left easy but not right. Valve wont go anymore forward.
I tried to adjust gear and nothing changed.
Found the problem. Tension nut where i changed the seal was real loose. It was tight on the bench but apparently seated after starting car.
Retightened it on car and drives like youre on a cloud. I forgot how sensitive chrysler steering was. Drove 3 miles today. To my knowledge, first time on road in 30 years except occasional repairs.
Retightened it on car and drives like youre on a cloud. I forgot how sensitive chrysler steering was. Drove 3 miles today. To my knowledge, first time on road in 30 years except occasional repairs.
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