Cast Iron Push Button 727 leak

57fury440

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It was called a torqueflite but it was a completely different transmission. The aluminum transmissions used a one piece case. The cast iron units (A488) had a removable bell housing.
 

Loadrunner

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Transmissions had cool names back then.

Packard Ultramatic.

Chrysler; Powerflite 2 sp, then Torqueflite starting in 1957.

GM Hydra Matic morphed into the Powerglide, Turbodrive, Torquedrive. Buick Dynaflow, Oldsmobile Jetaway, Pontiac Rotomatic, Cadillac Flashaway.

Ford supremely imaginative Ford O Matic sometimes Cruise O Matic, and probably countless others.

"The 1958 Edsel had a "Tele-Touch" three-speed automatic transmission. The driver pressed buttons in the hub of the steering wheel to shift gears.

With Edsel sales way below projections, Ford shifted gears in 1959 and offered the "Mile-O-Matic" transmission; this gearbox was shifted via a more conventional column shifter.

Depending on the width of the buyer's wallet, Mercury products in 1959 could be ordered with the standard "Merc-O-Matic" three-speed automatic or the optional "Multi-Drive Merc-O-Matic" automatic transmission, which added overdrive."


Detroit Gear and Borg Warner made transmissions for AMC prior to the Torqueflite.
 

Phil64

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I know well the cast iron Torqueflite, i've overhauled 20 or 30 since 20 years. It can leak by the cable (o-ring seen on the message of Loadrunner) but also by the axle of the throttle lever. Under the throttle lever lever there's a small seal and it's often by this location that oil comes out of the transmission, especially when ther's a converter drain back (after some days or weeks)
 

Sixpactogo

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I know well the cast iron Torqueflite, i've overhauled 20 or 30 since 20 years. It can leak by the cable (o-ring seen on the message of Loadrunner) but also by the axle of the throttle lever. Under the throttle lever lever there's a small seal and it's often by this location that oil comes out of the transmission, especially when ther's a converter drain back (after some days or weeks)
The Throttle lever is where my leak is as I mentioned in my original post. I call it the kick down lever but that is where my question lies.........Is it an O ring or a special seal? My service manual does not specifically mention this seal or a part number. Nor does the parts manual. It points to the seal but does not identify it. I plan on addressing the leak in the next few weeks but wanted to have the correct parts before I tackle the issue. I am beginning to believe it is just an O ring since most Oil seals have an actual part number. Since you have dealt with many of these transmissions, can you verify it is in fact an O ring? And is it accessed by dropping the pan and valve body?
 

sb61fury

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The Throttle lever is where my leak is as I mentioned in my original post. I call it the kick down lever but that is where my question lies.........Is it an O ring or a special seal? My service manual does not specifically mention this seal or a part number. Nor does the parts manual. It points to the seal but does not identify it. I plan on addressing the leak in the next few weeks but wanted to have the correct parts before I tackle the issue. I am beginning to believe it is just an O ring since most Oil seals have an actual part number. Since you have dealt with many of these transmissions, can you verify it is in fact an O ring? And is it accessed by dropping the pan and valve body?
You need to get 1 of those books that has part #s check ebay there might be 1 for your car . I have 1 for my '61 fury and it does help when your car needs a certain part
 

Phil64

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I join two pics because the earlier transmlission (1956-58 1/2) have a different case that the later (59-61): the throttle lever / cable housing is removable on earlier and cast on the trans. case on later. You can see the seal , if i remember well it's not an o-ring, it is intalled on the housing and not on the axle of the throttle lever. I never replaced it on a trans. in a car, but i think you can do that without removing oil pan and valve body. Remove the throttle lever and lift the seal.
I think you can find it at Fatsco Fatsco Transmission Parts | United States, Worldwide Shipping it's the place where i buy all my kits and parts. According to the parts manual: "SEAL, Throttle Valve Lever Shaft" # 1732183

seal1.jpg


seal2.jpg
 

Loadrunner

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Remove the throttle lever and lift the seal.

This shouldn't take more than an hour total, taking your time.

Don't gauge anything during removal, use an appropriate socket/driver to install the seal. Use a little ATF or grease as recommended to install the seal and inside the seal bore..

There is no pressure at this location, just splash, or as Phil mentions, when the converter drains and the case fills up higher than normal.

So there is no need to drain the pan/remove valve body, etc.

Chrysler always comes through in situations like this, when they finally have a tiny fault after 62 years, that it is easy to repair.
 

Sixpactogo

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I join two pics because the earlier transmlission (1956-58 1/2) have a different case that the later (59-61): the throttle lever / cable housing is removable on earlier and cast on the trans. case on later. You can see the seal , if i remember well it's not an o-ring, it is intalled on the housing and not on the axle of the throttle lever. I never replaced it on a trans. in a car, but i think you can do that without removing oil pan and valve body. Remove the throttle lever and lift the seal.
I think you can find it at Fatsco Fatsco Transmission Parts | United States, Worldwide Shipping it's the place where i buy all my kits and parts. According to the parts manual: "SEAL, Throttle Valve Lever Shaft" # 1732183

View attachment 562983

View attachment 562984
Perfect! Thank you Phil. That is what I was looking for. I found it in my parts book now thanks to you! Now I just need to find one that isn't gold plated. I don't need the external seal kit that Fatsco has since I have most of that kit already.
 

Phil64

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Perfect! Thank you Phil. That is what I was looking for. I found it in my parts book now thanks to you! Now I just need to find one that isn't gold plated. I don't need the external seal kit that Fatsco has since I have most of that kit already.
Note that Fatsco sells individual parts, i've bought from them washers, snap rings, etc... Every time i ask them via mail i've always a reply (a guy named Mike Lang). These small parts are inexpensive (5$ for a clutch snap ring, 7$ for a end play fiber washer) , my main problem is the price of shipping (to France) and the taxes ! Just call or mail them with pics, part number and i'm sure they can help you at an affordable price !
 

Loadrunner

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using and you can see itsn't an o-ring ...

An O ring is just a simpler seal, so it would be rare to see one along with a seal.

A decent bearing/seal shop should be able to whip one up based on ID, OD, and depth.
 

marty koirtyohann

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My 60 Dart has developed a leak around the kick down lever. Anyone have experience with replacing the seal? Pretty sure I need to drop the pan and valve body to get at it. Is it a standard O ring or does it take a special seal.
Any tips on this operation would be appreciated.
take it to a trany shop
 

Sixpactogo

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Don't take it to a tranny shop unless they've got the part in their hand and know what they're doing.
That is why I didn't go there first. The local shop That built my transmission back in 1983 did know what they were doing then. Now.........all 5 of them are under 35 and 3 of them are from Honduras and speak very little English. I took my 2005 300C there a couple years ago when it started going into limp mode. After a chat with with a couple of those foreigners, I backed out and opted for a U tube video and fixed it myself saving $2000.00 in the process. No U tube video on dealing with these old cast iron units but With Phil64's help, I have the correct parts on the way. Should have the leak fixed next week. Thanx you guys!
 

Frank H

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I got the seal from oriellys auto parts for about a dollar. You MUST make sure you have the old seals out. The seal just pushes in easy. Mine had two seals we got one out and thought it was the only one. Gave us fits. Once we got all the old seals out no leaks
 

Sixpactogo

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I got the seal from oriellys auto parts for about a dollar. You MUST make sure you have the old seals out. The seal just pushes in easy. Mine had two seals we got one out and thought it was the only one. Gave us fits. Once we got all the old seals out no leaks
ORiellys huh? I gave them the Chrysler PN and they couldn't come up with any thing for that seal. I called Napa and they crossed the number to one they could get. I ordered it just to see how it compared to the one from Fatsco. I should have both of them this week to see how they compare. Did yours look like the pic in post #30?
 

Frank H

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Yes that’s it. Sometimes you can get it out wit a pick. Ours was hard as a rock And could have been in there from the factory. I’ll reach out to another guy who might have better info. Your on the right track
 

Sixpactogo

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Yes that’s it. Sometimes you can get it out wit a pick. Ours was hard as a rock And could have been in there from the factory. I’ll reach out to another guy who might have better info. Your on the right track
Okay........I received both seals today. One from Fatsco and one from Napa. They both look the same but are different from the picture in post #30. Now my question is which way does it go in? Like a regular oil seal with the groove Up or down. I'm guessing the groove down. That puts the tapered end down like a regular oil seal.

100_0629.JPG
 
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