Cat’s Out Of The Bag, ‘65 300L Manual Trans, A/C and More

[PH27L7]

Well I got to thinking again and to intensify the sensation I turned my ball cap around and got down cleaning up the Hurst shifter mechanism.

I also learned about the “centering pin” from a b/bodies post and found what I really was looking for on b-bodies a link to “How to rebuild a Hurst bayonet shifter” over on a-bodies. I will look that over.

How to Rebuild Hurst Shifter

In the mean time here my cleaning efforts before a soaking in Evaporust.

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The below picture shows a machine screw that’s long enough to use as the centering pin while reinstalling the shifter and rods.

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That should turn out fine, you'll be amazed how well it will work once cleaned/ lubed. Disassembly / assembly is fairly straightforward, just make 100% sure the pieces are in the same place as original. I lay them out in sequence & also take pics. I've done 2 65's like yours & they turned out great. Yours should be likewise, I see no wear on the lever holes so it should be good & tight.

 

[haywire 440]

On YouTube there is this part 1 on how to completely rebuild a Hurst Shifter, fascinating.

Back to the 413 that doesn’t turn. I took a day to get some local recommendations on machine shops if needed.

One suggestion I received, even though the machinists hasn’t seen the block, is their concern of cracking the block trying to pound the pistons out. They would drill thru the pistons and collapse the pistons internally I’m guessing. They said pistons and components are available. I wonder about quality?

I have a ridge cutter and after the block is out attached to a engine stand my thought was to soak the 4 turned up cylinders with the 50/50 acetone & transmission fluid for say a week then do the other side. Then after cleaning & lubing again try to turn the crank. The ridge my only be carbon and my finger nail really doesn’t catch on it.

The bottom end, the oil pan, I haven’t seen in there yet but it was full of oil. When I did drain the oil some water then sludge then the oil came out.

Here’s some photos of cylinders & heads.

Well at least the lifters are in order in an egg crate.

Cylinder #1 is at TDC and matches the timing mark.

Below shows some penetrating fluid and the first look after heads were removed.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

That's what I had to do - after weeks of acetone/trans fluid, and pounding with a block of wood and a sledge hammer with absolutely no effect except concerns about breaking the welds on my engine stand, I used an air hammer/chisel and broke the pistons away from the rods. It took about 15 minues - then things started to move.

 

[haywire 440]

That's what I had to do - after weeks of acetone/trans fluid, and pounding with a block of wood and a sledge hammer with absolutely no effect except concerns about breaking the welds on my engine stand, I used an air hammer/chisel and broke the pistons away from the rods. It took about 15 minues - then things started to move.

Good to know that it is a viable option and probably quicker in the long run.

 

[haywire 440]

The crankshaft pulley is a 4 groove balanced unit and after Evaporust & inspection it shows multiple pitting around on it. Mostly the 2 back A/C grooves. My question is will using it cause an unbalanced situation and excessive wear on the fan belts? Should I locate a better pulley? I also noticed a rubber damper on the backside, original engine color showing. Just an observation.

Also soaked the Hurst shifter in Evaporust and this is how it turned out. It’s really hard to see the stamped ID, but I can make out Hurst (of course it is), “plus” at the end of competition, something under that, maybe Patent Pending, and the bottom row #s 9-4 J-6. I wonder if the #s mean anything? The shifter levers have numbers on them indicating Mopar identification.

 

[thethee]

The crankshaft pulley is a 4 groove balanced unit and after Evaporust & inspection it shows multiple pitting around on it. Mostly the 2 back A/C grooves. My question is will using it cause an unbalanced situation and excessive wear on the fan belts? Should I locate a better pulley? I also noticed a rubber damper on the backside, original engine color showing. Just an observation.

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Also soaked the Hurst shifter in Evaporust and this is how it turned out. It’s really hard to see the stamped ID, but I can make out Hurst (of course it is), “plus” at the end of competition, something under that, maybe Patent Pending, and the bottom row #s 9-4 J-6. I wonder if the #s mean anything? The shifter levers have numbers on them indicating Mopar identification.

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Can't imagine that that pitting would cause any noticeable unbalance, the pitting seems pretty evenly distributed around the pulley and the amount of weight lost seems negligible with respect to the total weight of the pulley. Not enough to overcome factory tolerances and what not.

However, what I CAN imagine is that that amount of pitting could have an abrasive effect on your belts, like rubbing it with sandpaper each revolution.

This is thinking from my mechanical engineering background though, not from real world experience, so don't take my word for it.

 

[haywire 440]

However, what I CAN imagine is that that amount of pitting could have an abrasive effect on your belts, like rubbing it with sandpaper each revolution.

This is thinking from my mechanical engineering background though, not from real world experience, so don't take my word for it.

Yes that rough surface was a concern, good point.
Thanks!

 

[haywire 440]

In an effort to keep parts tidy and in order the 413 rocker arms, push rods and lifters were boxed up and put up out of the way for now. The lifters were in an egg crate but I made some custom, leftover wood, containers that were glued and micro nailed together. At least these “organizers” don’t say made in china.

Final view of the engine compartment, hood removed, and an interesting markings on the upper block by the lifter bores. I read ‘5 ‘0 maybe it means the lifter bores are .005 over size. Can anyone explain this?

I found this information on the Chrysler 300 International Club site pertaining to the Letter Cars camshafts and possible replacements. My goal is to keep this 413 stock and reuse the original camshaft if it checks out ok. Any thoughts one way or another?

Above is the option of a new camshaft made to factory specifications.

Below is a camshaft I have with new lifters on my shelf. What’s your thoughts on this as a replacement? It would save me a few bucks.

 

[haywire 440]

The gas tank was removed also after using a wire wheel and drill to strip off all the undercoat. That “J” bolts were caked.

View of the rear frame rails.

Lowered gas tank, there was a pint or so of some pretty motley fluid inside.

Nice clean metal underneath and the tank pad was fairly decent except were the undercoating was sprayed on it.

Am I wrong thinking this electric fuel pump is an addition. The factory fuel line does go right to it.

It seems recently I read here about replacement exhaust hangers like these being available. Is that correct?

I do have a parts book for the ‘65 Chrysler and have a FSM coming this week from ebay. I like having physical the book. A nice owner’s manual and factory color chart were included in a 3 piece deal.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Fuel pump is definitely an add on. I would VERY much like to know about those exhaust hangers. Please PM me if you find a source.

 

[haywire 440]

Fuel pump is definitely an add on. I would VERY much like to know about those exhaust hangers. Please PM me if you find a source.

Maybe the ones I’m thinking of were for a slightly newer C body. Hopefully someone can help.

 

[haywire 440]

While I’m at this, here are the motor mounts. Drivers side is shot but the passenger side looks a lot newer.

 

[haywire 440]

Progress is moving forward today.

 

[haywire 440]

The Factory Service Manual arrived yesterday afternoon shortly after I had finished removing the transmission.

I went directly to the Transmission removal section and read this “Important” notice.

My reaction!

 

[haywire 440]

An alternative route is to, as the manual trans is shifted back, disconnect the bellhousing and after spinning it upside down slip it off the trans input shaft. Then remove the clutch. Now there’s enough room to bring the manual back forward, turn the nose towards the drivers side and lower the nose & trans. Obviously the heavy 4-speed is secured tightly to the trans jack.

It the Rube Goldberg method!

 

[Ripinator]

Progress is moving forward today.

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I really like your engine hoist. Did you fab that up? Mighty fine!

 

[haywire 440]

I really like your engine hoist. Did you fab that up? Mighty fine!

The cross bars were fabricated by a new friend here in Arkansas.I was able to borrow them. He’s a Rod & Custom type of guy and invited me on a trip to the Darrell Birdstar’s Tulsa Oklahoma Show about a week back. That was a riot!!! There was even a burlesque show. Only in America!

 

[haywire 440]

The engine is out and dropped at the shop for inspection and recommendations.

Question 1. Use the old camshaft if it checks out ok? (Engine hasn’t run for a long time, certainly I didn’t hear it)

Question 2. Buy new exact spec cam or one fairly close or, hells bells, go for what ever I want or go with what the engine builder recommends?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

If the original cam is in good shape, I say use it. Best profile out there, hard to match with the dubious claims of OE Restoration camshafts currently available that apparently use Chevy profiles...

 

[PH27L7]

The engine is out and dropped at the shop for inspection and recommendations.

Question 1. Use the old camshaft if it checks out ok? (Engine hasn’t run for a long time, certainly I didn’t hear it)

Question 2. Buy new exact spec cam or one fairly close or, hells bells, go for what ever I want or go with what the engine builder recommends?

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If you're to reuse the original cam I'd inspect all the lobes & lifters for wear. Since your engine is a bit crusty I'd disassemble & clean all the lifters & of course put them in the same hole they came in. A while back I had a '65 383HP with the same cam & I remember checking the lift & it was pretty pathetic. If it were mine I'd change it to an upgraded mild dual pattern. The idle will be very similar & it will be noticeably quicker. I'd have to look up the specific cam I used but it made a pretty dramatic difference in the 383 & was virtually undetectable from stock. You can't check the exact compression since your engine in stuck but I found the compression was much less than advertised, something around 9:1, this is typical for big block mopars.
Here's a couple cam possibilities-
Xtreme Energy 212/218 Hydraulic Flat Cam and Lifter Kit for Chrysler 383-440
Xtreme Energy 218/224 Hydraulic Flat Cam and Lifter Kit for Chrysler 383-440
Regardless of what you do I'd change out the valve springs or have the originals checked out. The 516 heads are disparaged by many but with upgraded valves & some port work they will add a lot of power. It all depends on your goals and/or budget.