Changing the hydraulic convertible hoses.

Zymurgy

Old Man with a Hat
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I am planning on doing some preventative maintentance on my '66 300 convertible and change the hydralic hoses for the top. It currently works perfectly but I have no plans of selling this car. I found a site that sells all new lines with new brass connectors. They list for about a $100. Is there any reason I can't just buy new lines without the brass? It would seem I could buy lines alone much cheaper.
 
It seems well worth it looking at the big picture. Thanks once again.
 
I don't understand, Mike. Are you trying to decide to go with brass fittings on new hoses or just new hoses in general, fittings aside?
 
I don't understand, Mike. Are you trying to decide to go with brass fittings on new hoses or just new hoses in general, fittings aside?

I was going to replace just the hoses but I hadn't looked that close to the brass fittings, attached to them. It seems much easier just to buy them already attached since I don't have the proper tools to do it myself.
 
Those hoses get little wear and exposure.

True, but they are over 45 years old and unless you are the original owner of the car, you don't have any idea how the car was stored or cared for. The last thing I would want is tranny fluid all over my new carpet or in my trunk because a 45 year old hose or fitting failed. Cheap insurance.
 
I wouldn't tear apart an interior to replace good working hoses. I would replace old hoses regardless if I had the interior torn apart.
That would be like pulling the heads off of a 150K mile engine and not replacing the lifters because they are not tapping.
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Yet...

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Top hoses.....

Seems like a waste of time and money. Those hoses get little wear and exposure.


I agree,
In all my years of fooling with these things I have never seen a hose fail because of wear or age. Physical damage due to collision or miss handling perhaps, but they just don't wear out.

I'd put that $100.00 someplace more worthy.
 
Wow. I could see if we were talking about $1,000 but we are talking about $100. I seriously doubt that is going to bust his restoration budget. I learned a lesson when I restored my GTO. I went through everything except the rear diff. Know what failed a year later? The rear diff. Two teeth broke off the ring. Those things never break, right? Well, it taught me to leave no stone unturned no matter how trivial it may seem.
 
Replaced every item on an engine build except the con-rod bolts.
Yep....
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Wow. I could see if we were talking about $1,000 but we are talking about $100. I seriously doubt that is going to bust his restoration budget. I learned a lesson when I restored my GTO. I went through everything except the rear diff. Know what failed a year later? The rear diff. Two teeth broke off the ring. Those things never break, right? Well, it taught me to leave no stone unturned no matter how trivial it may seem.

Good point...... Sometimes my penny pinching...tight a** ways over weight good sense. I like to fix things rather then just replace them if theres a choice. Old school thinking. But then this is what seperates us mopar folks from the (1-800....www) Chevy & Mustang folks.
Then again... I've fixed several broken diffs.... and zero worn out power top lines
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Back in the '90s I bought a restored '64 Skylark convertible. Within the first week or two of ownership the original 30 year old top hoses failed. These were a type of clear plastic with brass fittings. A local hydraulic shop made me up new hoses for not a whole lot of money that were not clear plastic. It was a royal pain to attach them to the lower fitting on the hydraulic rams though. I would say do it now.
 
I placed my order tonight. Every other hose on this car has been completely dried out. It makes sense to change it out now. I will be stripping the interior soon to get it ready for paint and upholstery. Thanks for the input.
 
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