How exactly did you do that? ha its hard for me to imagine.
converting to dual piston Master Cylinder
- Thread starter newport64
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How exactly did you do that? ha its hard for me to imagine.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Slice off a piece about 3/16" long (will need a sharp razor blade) and slide it on to the rod.
If I recal it might take a little effort to get it on the rod, just use a deep socket to hold the hose and tap the rod into it.
You may need to chamfer the leading edge to help putting the push rod into the piston I just used my flush cutters an nipped the edge off.
Alan
If I recal it might take a little effort to get it on the rod, just use a deep socket to hold the hose and tap the rod into it.
You may need to chamfer the leading edge to help putting the push rod into the piston I just used my flush cutters an nipped the edge off.
Alan
BillGrissom
Active Member
The little rubber bushing has come with the 2-4 bolt adapter plate I bought recently (ebay). I haven't seen them separately. You might ask the ebay seller if you can get just the bushing. Otherwise, just cut a piece of rubber tubing as suggested. It is basically just a square O-ring, but with a little depression on the outside, probably to let air escape as you push it in. It locks amazingly strongly. I put one on a manual rod (so wouldn't lose it) and had the bright idea to test fit it on an old manual MC. It pushed in real easy and then didn't want to come out. I had to bang the rod out, and tore the bushing a bit. It seems the front edge grabs the shoulder in the manual piston. Booster MC's have a smooth bore in the piston, so doesn't lock. I have wondered if the locked rod is essential, or just an assembly aid. It seems that once the MC is installed, there is no room for the rod to pop out of the piston.
Update on this finally:
After having to put some money into our pool and bad weather during the last few weeks progress has been slow. Now that I have some time off I finally finished replacing all the brake drum parts/master cylinder and a few brake lines. I'm at the point where I need to put the drums back on and test the brakes as well as bleed them. I bench bled the MC before mounting fyi.
So I have a couple of questions before proceeding:
for the rear drums, what is the best way to avoid having to fight the drums in case say in a month or two I need to pull one of the drums for some reason. I read somewhere that chalk on the axle helps to avoid it getting as stuck. what about some kind of lubricant or grease?
also for the brake adjusters, do I mount the drums with them closed all the way, do these automatically adjust as I press the brake?
is there a way to test the brakes without mounting the drums? or would this make the wheel cylinders pop out since the drum wouldn't be there to stop the outward movement?
(right side rear)
for the front drums, I have cleaned the bearings/nuts and washer with paint thinner in preparation to repack with grease, where all do I need to add grease besides the bearing and how much is the necessary amount?
MC
(left side front)
other than that I think I am ready to go, let me know any recommendations or watch outs that you may see or wish to share.
thanks!
After having to put some money into our pool and bad weather during the last few weeks progress has been slow. Now that I have some time off I finally finished replacing all the brake drum parts/master cylinder and a few brake lines. I'm at the point where I need to put the drums back on and test the brakes as well as bleed them. I bench bled the MC before mounting fyi.
So I have a couple of questions before proceeding:
for the rear drums, what is the best way to avoid having to fight the drums in case say in a month or two I need to pull one of the drums for some reason. I read somewhere that chalk on the axle helps to avoid it getting as stuck. what about some kind of lubricant or grease?
also for the brake adjusters, do I mount the drums with them closed all the way, do these automatically adjust as I press the brake?
is there a way to test the brakes without mounting the drums? or would this make the wheel cylinders pop out since the drum wouldn't be there to stop the outward movement?
(right side rear)
for the front drums, I have cleaned the bearings/nuts and washer with paint thinner in preparation to repack with grease, where all do I need to add grease besides the bearing and how much is the necessary amount?
MC
(left side front)
other than that I think I am ready to go, let me know any recommendations or watch outs that you may see or wish to share.
thanks!
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You've done a great job. Didn't know if you were up for it in the beginning. Attaboy.
Nice work. As far a packing the bearings I was taught to put a goop of grease in your hand and then rake the bearing in your hand, packing the grease while rotation the bearing as you go. I apply a little grease on the shaft but you probably don't need to with all the grease on the bearing.
I have been doing it this way on the farm forever and was taught by my Grandfather.
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong on the self adjusting, but I just put the drums back on and did nothing else. I just did mine a year ago.
I have been doing it this way on the farm forever and was taught by my Grandfather.
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong on the self adjusting, but I just put the drums back on and did nothing else. I just did mine a year ago.
any input on this:
for the rear drums, what is the best way to avoid having to fight the drums in case say in a month or two I need to pull one of the drums for some reason. I read somewhere that chalk on the axle helps to avoid it getting as stuck. what about some kind of lubricant or grease?
for the rear drums, what is the best way to avoid having to fight the drums in case say in a month or two I need to pull one of the drums for some reason. I read somewhere that chalk on the axle helps to avoid it getting as stuck. what about some kind of lubricant or grease?
BillGrissom
Active Member
I never had a rear drum stick to the "register" snout on the axle, but I never lived in an extreme rust area. You could rub anti-sieze on the snout and the base of the wheel studs, or maybe Rustoleum rust preventer spray (similar to cosmoline wax). The main problem is usually having to back off the shoes with brake pliers thru the rear slots on the adjusting wheel. If not, you usually can't pull the lip on the drum past the shoes.
Re packing front wheel bearings. After forcing grease into the rollers, I fill the hub with grease and pack a bit in the dust cover, with just a little air pocket so pressure doesn't build up.
Re packing front wheel bearings. After forcing grease into the rollers, I fill the hub with grease and pack a bit in the dust cover, with just a little air pocket so pressure doesn't build up.
mostly the issue I want to prevent is since the axle has that slot where the from slides into, it might stick in there. see it?
BillGrissom
Active Member
Your rear axle is interesting. I have never seen one like that. Since your 1966 should be in the same family as my 1965, I am guessing your car has a special feature like a Posi-Trac rear-end. All my Mopars have a long axle with integral hub face to attach the brake drum & wheel. Yours looks more like the spindle on the fronts. However, since I see a little rust, it appears it doesn't take packed grease like in the fronts, and probably uses sealed ball bearings in the rotating hub. To prevent sticking, I would coat the shaft with a thin layer of anti-sieze, as used on spark plug threads (modern cars w/ alum heads). Don't go overboard because you don't want the inner race of the bearing spinning on the shaft.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
64.................
wihaltom
Member
I'm in the process of replacing my single port MC with a new dual port.
Since I am staying with the drum brakes, does it matter which port I use for front and rear brake lines?
This is a MC for 4 wheel power drum brakes so, since there is no proportioning valve, does it matter how it's tubed up?
With disc brakes, the rear reservoir for the front brakes is usually much larger than the rear one.
The reservoirs in the MC are almost the same size. The rear reservoir may be slightly larger than the front but not much.
I'm just curious what you guys think since you know MUCH more about these cars than I do.
:yes_no:
Since I am staying with the drum brakes, does it matter which port I use for front and rear brake lines?
This is a MC for 4 wheel power drum brakes so, since there is no proportioning valve, does it matter how it's tubed up?
With disc brakes, the rear reservoir for the front brakes is usually much larger than the rear one.
The reservoirs in the MC are almost the same size. The rear reservoir may be slightly larger than the front but not much.
I'm just curious what you guys think since you know MUCH more about these cars than I do.
:yes_no:
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
The fittings should be different size. The front brakes are typically on the rear port. I was once told that is was in case of a master failure you would still have front brakes.
Alan
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Oh Bill easy with the p-word we don't wear bowties. I would add a adjustable propotioning valve, in the rear line, since you have it apart, because if the rears lock first the car will spin.
wihaltom
Member
Yes, the two ports are different sizes. The front is 9/16"-18 and the rear is 1/2"-20.
I went ahead and tubed it up rear port to front brakes and the front port to rear brakes.
I got the leaking wheel cylinder replaced and all I lack is bleeding the system.
I'm looking forward to a nice long drive when it's finished.
I love driving this car. It's so smooth and quiet with great power.
It's just fun to drive it and it gets lots of looks, too.
Weldon
P.S. This is the final result of the installation.
I went for a drive today after I finished bleeding the system and washed the car.
Everything works great.
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any leaks using the line adapters to the MC? you got the 3/16 line fitted with 9/16 and 1/2 adapters?
heres the route I went after following advice about possible leaks.
ok so the saga continues...
after going through the headache of finding the LH thread lug stud... I spoke with my dad and he machined one for me...I guess I could have done that from the beginning...check it out.
anyway I bled the brakes, starting from right back, left back, right front and finally left front brake. mounted the wheels and lowered the car. Upon hitting the brakes, they feel soft and still go all the way to the bottom but with some resistance about 2/3 of the way down until the car does stop.
It doesn't give me a feeling of trust to test the car on the street. I have never owned a car with manual brakes let alone a car this old. Should the brakes be tighter? meaning compared to brakes of today, the car should come to strong stop about halfway down when pressing the brake?
after going through the headache of finding the LH thread lug stud... I spoke with my dad and he machined one for me...I guess I could have done that from the beginning...check it out.
anyway I bled the brakes, starting from right back, left back, right front and finally left front brake. mounted the wheels and lowered the car. Upon hitting the brakes, they feel soft and still go all the way to the bottom but with some resistance about 2/3 of the way down until the car does stop.
It doesn't give me a feeling of trust to test the car on the street. I have never owned a car with manual brakes let alone a car this old. Should the brakes be tighter? meaning compared to brakes of today, the car should come to strong stop about halfway down when pressing the brake?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Your description makes it sound like they are still way too spongy.
Bleed'em again. There's still air in the system or you have a collapsed brake line.
There should be an inch or two of free play, then a firm pedal that progressively gets harder for another 2-3 inches and it should never go to the floor.
Bleed'em again. There's still air in the system or you have a collapsed brake line.
There should be an inch or two of free play, then a firm pedal that progressively gets harder for another 2-3 inches and it should never go to the floor.
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wihaltom
Member
any leaks using the line adapters to the MC? you got the 3/16 line fitted with 9/16 and 1/2 adapters?
heres the route I went after following advice about possible leaks.
No, I didn't use adapters. Those are inverted flare line nuts with 3/16" holes I got from Autozone. They have all different sizes of inverted flare line nuts. Only catch is they come in packages of 5 so I have 4 more each of 1/2" X 3/16" tubing line nut and 9/16" X 3/16" tubing line nut.
I figured the fewer joints I had, the fewer possible leaks.
And I'm here to tell you, that big old land yacht STOPS now !!
It feels so good to have real confidence in the safety of the car now.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Yes still has air start at rt rear/furthest, left rear, rt front, left front. With a helper pump it, hold, squirt.
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