Yes, I know, lazy sob. But, I am old, sorry worthless and no account, so I ask instead of remove. Does anyone know what screw thread the distributor points screw is......very large head, and I assume it is 10-24. I want to find a replacement for mine that has very worn slot. But, rather than remove and measure, I wanted to ask. Anybody know what thread. Thanks for my lazy question.
Distributor points screw.....
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
Pathetic.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Don't have one of these in your toolbox? (only $6 online)
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No, this loser is too pathetically lazy to remove the screw and size it himself.
Love Shack
Active Member
Sorry I can’t help.
I was to lazy to read your question.
I was to lazy to read your question.
LOL I have the point/cond screws for sale if needed $5 and the ride Stainless steel
Cant help but wonder how many of you actually have to work on things. To just remove and check thread sizes, you have to turn the engine by hand to get points on cam. Then you can hook up the dwell meter, crank and re-adjust....and the case of my distro, the screw slot is also a mess, so overshoot is inevitable, so several attempts to hit around 30 degrees. Also, my engine is tough to turn, and I am ancient.....so, in the hope of finding something like the Sgt response, I asked. Makes me want to not bother. Thanks for the help.
Pretty sure it's an 8-32, probably 1/4" long.
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thanks again Big John. At this point in life, I run a lot on the good old days, where I bought my first car at 14 and pulled the engine for rebuild that I did the next year. Drag racing all thru HS in a couple cars that needed a lot of help. After a BSME worked building nuc ships for navy and rode ALL new subs for 5 years on prop machinery. Built a room addition on my first house, then designed and built a 4000 sq ft house for little woman. Began farming cattle on the side for ten years, during which time built 5 horse barns as we moved around, also built an attached garage, a large shop, with a little help from my friends. Also recently did a frame off on a 60 MGA in my shop. Cut up three 49 Ford PU's with intent to build one.....did not get that finished due to another move. At age of 60, did a deploy to IZ to run a team of analysts that about killed me. Then helped a friend build a new company that he now runs with 50 or so analysts working for him. Also spent so much time working on friends cars gratis, I was given tools in thanks when young. Today, run down the road too often to work on neighbors tractors, skid steers and now a 30 Ford model A he needs help with. Have had over 50 motorcycles, raced, wrecked and rebuilt many. But, when I think back about some of this, the one thing that stands out is working with friends who give and take help....best part of the process of life.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Dwell Meter? On a Mopar? No Dwell meters are for GM's with the 'window' distributor cap.
Save yourself the bother of turning the engine by loosening the distributor and turning it, better yet if you have a BB remove the distributor and adjust clamped in your vice, easy peazy, while you have it out check for worn bushings (very common). Heck even a SB is worthwhile to pull the distributor as that distributor is very well known for worn bushings. Also don't use a flat feeler gauge use a wire gauge especially on a dual point.
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While still in school, I bought a used distributor machine.....and would perform your terms of magic on the machine, and then usually do some dialing on advance with springs and weights, check vac timing, etc. But, in my old age, I first used the tried and true feeler on the points a couple times, right after I got this fury. Thought I was good until I hooked up the dwell meter....which for these closed distributors, you just crank and adjust. I was off about 5 degrees.....so some fine tuning was in order. But, I agree with your points on some of the problems you need to look for. thanks
I always check the dwell the points are always a bit off gapped. all the info is in the FSM The new parts store sets suck, no spring tension and half the time the condensers fail hot.
You had better go back to school. There is a lot of wrong information in your post.
Not really.
While I'll always agree that using a dwell meter to check is OK, lots and lots of points have been set with feeler gauges. GM did that right with being able to adjust the dwell.
Pulling the SB distributor is the easiest way to do it (especially if you back hurts LOL). Loosening the BB distributor is much easier than bumping the starter too. When I had points, I always pulled the distributor. It's just easier. And yep, the bushings wear. I replaced some in a dual point for my Barracuda.
I always use a dwell meter to set points. Set them with a narrow "point type" feeler gauge and check and adjust with a dwell meter. Especially with my dual point. the round wire gauges are for spark plugs. You could set them with a drill bit if you have the right size but it really isn't the proper tool. I can set them by sight and get them close enough to make it run but it's not the right way to do it. I will agree, pulling the distributor is easier than laying over the engine and working in the back. If you drop a screw down inside you'll be pulling it anyway. I usually use a screw starter as well. Another proper tool that's smarter than a wad of gum to hold the screw on the driver. Another tip is to leave the screw in the condenser bracket and slide the condenser out. Lately, I have been replacing just the points and reusing the condenser. If it still works, it stays. The new condensers are poor quality and most fail in a short time. Contact Halifaxhops and get some quality parts. Even the NOS points from 50 years ago are much higher quality than the new parts. Don't forget a little dab of grease on the rubbing block. Standard Ignition SL-2 is good stuff.
I still don't see how the "go back to school" comment is appropriate.
You are really talking about doing the same thing. The two minor differences are @68PK21 440.6bbl is using a different gauge and not checking with a dwell meter after setting the points. I don't see as it's a big deal.
I never owned a dwell meter... Never saw the need. And when I tossed points over my shoulder almost 50 years ago, I never looked back.
Interesting points....no pun. But, I began with an engine rebuild in the early 60's, and have been trying ever since. And, continue to learn. Cool point the other day that the vac advance "points" in the direction of advance....never thought of that. So it goes. And, more on the points; I again adjusted the other day by turning distributor as BigJohn notes, and voila, had near 30 on the dwell, that in the old days I never used, except for chevy and the window. But, great to check for the mopar as well, just to stay in touch. But all the talk is good for different ways to stay in touch with the silly machine.....enjoy it all.
Jakter
Active Member
If mopar felt you don't need a dwell meter, why do they include dwell numbers in the factory service manual ?
I set points to the FSM spec with flat feeler gauge, start vehicle, check dwell, adjust if needed to correct dwell.
It's not hard.
I set points to the FSM spec with flat feeler gauge, start vehicle, check dwell, adjust if needed to correct dwell.
It's not hard.
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