saylor
Senior Member
just got done gravity bleeding the brakes... wiped everything dry . .. will let it sit for a couple of hours while i go to the parts store . .. lets see if everything stays dry !
ECI c - body brake kit
- Thread starter saylor
- Start date
saylor
Senior Member
billgrissom - can you please elaborate on the location of the prop valve? why AFTER the distribution block? It seems that the rear brake line is just a pass-thru on the dist block? i.e. there is no distributing going on for the rear brakes at this location,, its looks like it just goes thru the block. The fronts look to be T split here 1 line in 2 lines out. But the back line looks like 1 line in, 1 line out.
I called ECI, and they anticipate that the rears are going to be doing next to nothing, and if i need a prop valve, its going to be to lessen the fronts to give the rears a chance...
i didnt expect that answer
they said try it how it is, and if needed squelch the fronts.
- - - im guessing that the prop valve is a cut-off pressure valve ? Like i hit 700 psi or lbs pressure or whatever and then i stay at 700 while the other side of the system continues to apply more pressure?
(the correct measurement is PSI . . . good ol interwebs . . .)
I called ECI, and they anticipate that the rears are going to be doing next to nothing, and if i need a prop valve, its going to be to lessen the fronts to give the rears a chance...
i didnt expect that answer
they said try it how it is, and if needed squelch the fronts.
- - - im guessing that the prop valve is a cut-off pressure valve ? Like i hit 700 psi or lbs pressure or whatever and then i stay at 700 while the other side of the system continues to apply more pressure?
(the correct measurement is PSI . . . good ol interwebs . . .)
Last edited:
saylor
Senior Member
i think me and the ECI guy maybe are talking about 2 different things? a metering valve ? is not the same as a proportioning valve ? i thought we were just having problems communicating... with him back east and me in texas but i think maybe not.
research continues . . . .
but i think maybe not.research continues . . . .
saylor
Senior Member
well hell, i changed the belts and fuel filter while i was standing around making sure the brake line connections are staying dry... and now its raining so i had to pack it in...
saylor
Senior Member
allright, had a leak on the passenger side where I recycled those extenders and couplers I had from previous^^ , , ,threw all that in the trash and bought a 20" new hard line today to get there from the old stock brake line support location to the new location. its all clean and no leaky.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Great news!
saylor
Senior Member
holy jeezus we got brakes! all kind of brakes. EEEEE - ZZZZ brakes. like pinky toe brakes. but I sprung a leak in the rear passenger drum innards,,, looks like a rear brake job is next. but holy crap man, I can stop.
Great! Sounds like you'll be set after the rear brakes are done.
Funship32
New Member
Saylor - I've been reading your and everyone else's posts about this subject. Good work and yes, you did the right thing moving that support bracket to the rear. No offense meant but that other setup you had looked like a complete rube goldberg setup. And while I hate to ask it, I think you could do everyone here a big service by writing up your review of the ECI product and what all you had to do to make it work (i.e.: moving the brake line bracket, which M/C to use, etc, etc). I ask as I have both a '68 Fury III and a '69 Road Runner both with drum brakes. Been looking at kits for my RR as of late (want to do the fury later) and there are a slew of kits and comments out there but I've yet to hear anyone say "this is what I did and here is how I got it to work". Obviously I've a vested interest in YOUR work *wink* but honestly it would be nice to hear 1st hand how it all went.
Funship32
New Member
Oh and yes, you should put the prop valve after the distribution block. Usually it is put on the outside of the frame rail...
Good to see you Funship! Welcome to FCBO!
saylor
Senior Member
ya man +1.
I will do some write up here in this post for sure. no offence taken about the brake line job with try #1 , ,, I thought you could just extend the flex hose, I did not know the importance of the bracket, etc.
my old man was a mechanic restoring old jaguars and showing them nationally in the jag owners assoc of America.. he died 20? yrs ago. so I really don't have anyone to ask anymore about car stuff. everything I know is from back then, and everything I don't know I have to wing it. ive never done a drum to disc change before, so this was 100% new to me. and I haven't done a brake job in 20+ yrs either..
I went with the ECI kit mostly due to ease. meaning I didn't want to bust out the arms/torsion bars/spindles/ball joints etc (it probably needs it though).
The ECI kit you only have to get TO the spindle. Another reason is that I didn't want old 1973 hardware. its out there to be had if you look, but I didn't want used stuff. especially brakes and wheel components.
It really did bolt on. It wasn't that hard. I did everything with jack, stands, in the driveway. if you are better equipped with air tools / garage / etc it wouldn't be too bad at all. my experience level is pretty low too.
I gave what, $775 shipped for the kit, and $14.99 for the MC at autozone. I spent about $20 in lines and couplings and farting around. $12 bucks for a can and a half of brake fluid. All the part numbers are in this post previously im pretty sure, but the MC is 1 1/32 bore. That was a key thing ralph @ ECI told me. I only found 1 MC with that bore, so I figured that was the one.
It does bolt up to the stock drum booster.
Now to be totally fair, at this exact moment, I haven't been over about 20mph. I took it up the street putting on the brakes about every 10 feet . . .backed up some and braked, then went forward some more. I got to the driveway to check for leaks,, and had one :/
at the rear pass drum. So I parked it. I hope to get the wheel off tonight and get in there, and fix it tomorrow AM before it gets too hot outside.
At this moment - I had a lot to test. Ive had the whole dash out, trans valve body and seals, new shocks all corners, new wheels / tires, rebushed swaybar, fuel line and filter from pump to carb, new gauges in, etc. so the mere fact that it started, came up to temperature, and no one died is a feat in itself. Then it went thru all the gears cleanly. Then it moved. THEN it stopped!
It is an historic day today over here in the saylor household.
right now, I have no add-on metering valve or proportioning valve. Everything from the spindle up is bone stock. I mean I changed the MC, but the lines and hookups and the stock splitter T and warning combination valve thing under the MC mounted on the frame. to be clear for the reader, the add-on metering and proportioning valves are 2 different things. A proportioning valve is a cut off valve, and a metering valve is a hold off valve. way different things. I was advised to try the brakes first without adding either item, then adjust as needed.
I will do some write up here in this post for sure. no offence taken about the brake line job with try #1 , ,, I thought you could just extend the flex hose, I did not know the importance of the bracket, etc.
my old man was a mechanic restoring old jaguars and showing them nationally in the jag owners assoc of America.. he died 20? yrs ago. so I really don't have anyone to ask anymore about car stuff. everything I know is from back then, and everything I don't know I have to wing it. ive never done a drum to disc change before, so this was 100% new to me. and I haven't done a brake job in 20+ yrs either
..I went with the ECI kit mostly due to ease. meaning I didn't want to bust out the arms/torsion bars/spindles/ball joints etc (it probably needs it though).
The ECI kit you only have to get TO the spindle. Another reason is that I didn't want old 1973 hardware. its out there to be had if you look, but I didn't want used stuff. especially brakes and wheel components.
It really did bolt on. It wasn't that hard. I did everything with jack, stands, in the driveway. if you are better equipped with air tools / garage / etc it wouldn't be too bad at all. my experience level is pretty low too.
I gave what, $775 shipped for the kit, and $14.99 for the MC at autozone. I spent about $20 in lines and couplings and farting around. $12 bucks for a can and a half of brake fluid. All the part numbers are in this post previously im pretty sure, but the MC is 1 1/32 bore. That was a key thing ralph @ ECI told me. I only found 1 MC with that bore, so I figured that was the one.
It does bolt up to the stock drum booster.
Now to be totally fair, at this exact moment, I haven't been over about 20mph. I took it up the street putting on the brakes about every 10 feet
. . .backed up some and braked, then went forward some more. I got to the driveway to check for leaks,, and had one :/at the rear pass drum. So I parked it. I hope to get the wheel off tonight and get in there, and fix it tomorrow AM before it gets too hot outside.
At this moment - I had a lot to test. Ive had the whole dash out, trans valve body and seals, new shocks all corners, new wheels / tires, rebushed swaybar, fuel line and filter from pump to carb, new gauges in, etc. so the mere fact that it started, came up to temperature, and no one died is a feat in itself. Then it went thru all the gears cleanly. Then it moved. THEN it stopped!
It is an historic day today over here in the saylor household.
right now, I have no add-on metering valve or proportioning valve. Everything from the spindle up is bone stock. I mean I changed the MC, but the lines and hookups and the stock splitter T and warning combination valve thing under the MC mounted on the frame. to be clear for the reader, the add-on metering and proportioning valves are 2 different things. A proportioning valve is a cut off valve, and a metering valve is a hold off valve. way different things. I was advised to try the brakes first without adding either item, then adjust as needed.
saylor
Senior Member
well, since the rear passenger side rear drum cylinder blew out during my test drive, im going to go ahead and post here about the rear brakes. pictures and part numbers to follow. im going all new, except the drums themselves. they are good to go still. I got all the springs ($8.99) and shoes (19.99? ill look at the rcpt..) at autozone. got the cylinders at orielys. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...l+cylinder_1235281_560&keyword=wheel+cylinder
the book said (if I remember correctly) that all of the rear drum cylinders are .9375 15/16 bore, across all models. ill double check that, but I think that's accurate. for the rears.
my springs get here on the early parts truck,, they were at the hub store and im too lazy to drive over there right now.
the book said (if I remember correctly) that all of the rear drum cylinders are .9375 15/16 bore, across all models. ill double check that, but I think that's accurate. for the rears.
my springs get here on the early parts truck,, they were at the hub store and im too lazy to drive over there right now.
saylor
Senior Member
. .. and the ECI raybestos hoses they sent me maybe would have reached. .. when they didn't reach is when the suspension was at full off the ground wide open up on stands... but I highly recommend relocating the frame mounts to the rear of the upper arm,, its way cooler. and the hose crosses nothing. it wasn't that hard to drill new holes and hang the bracket.
saylor
Senior Member
say all , ,there are some bent washers in the rear drum rebuild spring kit, but im not sure where they go. do they go behind the clip that holds the parking brake lever? and - wherever they go - do they curve out or in ?
thanks all -
- saylor
thanks all -
- saylor
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Where?
saylor
Senior Member
i think its behind the brake arm/lever, like on the backside of the horseshoe clip on the backside of the shoe. i think. didnt notice it coming off,, its just in the pile of old parts, and there is a new one in the kit...
saylor
Senior Member
i just got back . . .autozone sold me the wrong shoes.. the 2 1/2 . . . .i need 2" shoes. . . .oreily has them and the wheel cylinders. part #s to follow.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I'm shocked....
I want to show you something
[video=youtube_share;aBTpjkPiVyg]http://youtu.be/aBTpjkPiVyg[/video]
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