Oh boy, with all this information I find no mention of proper safety shop wear.
After watching a CoParts Auction horrendous HellCat crash rebuild on YouTube don't be a jackass like this.
WEAR PROPER FOOTWEAR!
Not sneakers, not trendy hikers wannabe work boots but real workboots with real cowhide leather, steel toed if you prefer. I couldn't believe watching these kids with the trendy NYC tasseled hoodies, shorts, sneakers tearing the front end off this HellCat using grinder cutoff wheels with sparks flying. And what is it with using a grinder to do all cutting? Seen it on all shows, no skill with a torch? Insurance don't like a open flame anymore? I don't get it, someone takes 15/20 minutes with a grinder cutoff wheel that would take 2 minutes with a cutting torch.
It wasn't until the 8th post that I learned of your trade and experience so the footwear advice maybe moot but I doubt it as it seems all you can get now are junk/trendy/ ahem HiTech footwear out of China. Even Redwing has gone crap, but there are others, (trade secret).
I must be a odd duck as I take it this all involves a 68 Sport Fury right? I've done all this by myself, but I have never been of short stature YMMV. Hood removal can be done single handily, just make sure you have the reach to grab both sides, AND WEAR GLOVES!
And not these wimpy hitech gloves but good ole cheap cowhide construction gloves the kind you would use with a sledge hammer as the rolled joined edge of the hood can pinch cut your fingers. And it that happens you may drop the hood but that's where the steel toed boots come in get it? LOL And don't bother scribing the hinge location on the hood as every scratch you make through the paint is a invitation for rust to start, use a magic marker or some pinchweld primer.
I R&R my 1st 68PK21 hood all by myself when I was 17 to install the Cold Air system off a SuperBee. It's not that hard.
As far as pulling the engine and tranny together, how much do you value that vintage paint on your firewall & radiator support? I've done it that way once, never again, I've helped stubborn friends (GM) do it too with a big "I told you so" at the end. Small block 4 speeds, yea OK but a Big Block with a auto transmission, more hassle than it's worth, separate them. Every time things would get banged & bumped.
Don't bother with cheap Harbor Freight or Rent-A-Center engine lifts or stands.
I've used Rent-A-Center lifts a couple of times and usually the wheels are all wonky or never been greased so when your pushing it around the littlest expansion joint or crack in the floor will want to tip it over. I went with using a chainfall to the roof rafters, have even used a come-a-long, way better than a rickety engine lift. Pull engine up, roll vehicle back, lower engine to a good stand or a homemade dolly, roll vehicle back or out of garage, simple.
And remember, Too many cooks can spoil the stew, every job I've encountered evolving something serious with a job whether it be a car, truck or heavy equipment there is always some bull moose in a hurry type that wants to give it a smack or a pry with the results of something getting broke/smashed or someone getting hurt.
Good Luck!
