Engine Removal Questions

[65sporty]

That is how you'd change them... guy's doing it everyday have the cab off in under an hour.

Working on EVERYTHING, as you do, how was the learning curve on the cab removal? I'm picturing myself spending about 3-4 hours the first time, just making sure I didn't miss anything... Nothing worse than pulling something apart because you missed unbolting/disconnecting it. Actually, it is worse when you get to PAY for the mistake...

The 08-10 is easier than the 03-07, still with some youtube help it was a couple of hours. I have heard that guy's that do them all the time do it in well under a hour.

 

[cantflip]

The 08-10 is easier than the 03-07, still with some youtube help it was a couple of hours. I have heard that guy's that do them all the time do it in well under a hour.

I'm guessing you'll eventually get more practice as they continue to age.

 

[Joseph James]

Engine is in the car. Tomorrow we get starter, power steering, etc. on. We spent a lot of time bead blasting and painting parts yesterday.

The old engine had a plastic sprocket for the camshaft. What's up with that?

Note the plug guard is at wrong end of the engine. I moved it later.

 

[65sporty]

They used the nylon coated aluminum cam gears for many years, it's not only Mopar either. I believe it is either quieter with the flat link chain or cheaper.

 

[jct]

They still sell them, i saw that recently, i don't remember where i saw it...

 

[Joseph James]

Thanks for the info. That sprocket has some cracks in it. No slack at all in that old chain. Don't know if ever it was replaced. The new engine has metal sprocket on camshaft.

When looking for TDC on #1, I peeked in the cylinder with a flashlight. Piston has .060 on it, so I am guessing the engine had it's last rebuild done.

Company supplied specs on their simtest. Oil pressure 65, oil flow 27, compression 165. There is a video on YouTube about their simtest machine that is interesting.

 

[65Fury440]

Thanks for the info. That sprocket has some cracks in it. No slack at all in that old chain. Don't know if ever it was replaced. The new engine has metal sprocket on camshaft.

When looking for TDC on #1, I peeked in the cylinder with a flashlight. Piston has .060 on it, so I am guessing the engine had it's last rebuild done.

Company supplied specs on their simtest. Oil pressure 65, oil flow 27, compression 165. There is a video on YouTube about their simtest machine that is interesting.

That's pretty cool. At first thought, the oil pressure gauge port would be too small to provide adequate flow, but at low rpms it would be. I wonder where they measure flow.
Your detailing looks nice!
Good luck, thanks for posting!

 

[Joseph James]

That's pretty cool. At first thought, the oil pressure gauge port would be too small to provide adequate flow, but at low rpms it would be. I wonder where they measure flow.
Your detailing looks nice!
Good luck, thanks for posting!

The block and heads were painted by S&J. The guy taking my order asked me if I wanted Chrysler Blue at no charge. Thing is, the can of paint I had that was a Mopar product looks more like Chrysler Blue. Their paint doesn't, in my opinion. Also picked up an extra can at AutoZone and it matches close to what S&J painted, but not exactly.

 

[Joseph James]

Progress. Working on bolts to transmission and motor mounts.

 

[Joseph James]

All I lack is finishing. Radiator, hoses, kickdown linkage.

My friend started oil pressure test before I got there and no oil pressure. My suggestion was to prime the pump. That worked. We saw 72 psi with 20w-50 oil.

 

[cbarge]

Has the engine been run on the dyno for initial break-in??
If not,run regular 10w30 oil with a bottle of STP for the break in.
Run the engine without the thermostat and bypass the heater core to avoid overheating.
Remember big blocks have staggered oiling passages.
Kudos for priming the pump,but turn the crank 180 degrees so the other side of the engine gets oil up top.

 

[Joseph James]

Has the engine been run on the dyno for initial break-in??
If not,run regular 10w30 oil with a bottle of STP for the break in.
Run the engine without the thermostat and bypass the heater core to avoid overheating.
Remember big blocks have staggered oiling passages.
Kudos for priming the pump,but turn the crank 180 degrees so the other side of the engine gets oil up top.

Engine manufacturer procedures is what we are doing. They said to leave sparkplugs out and turn engine over for 2 minutes with pressure gauge attached.

Found the following: No crank. Was no ground to starter relay. I found they had the wire from neutral safety switch attached to oil pressure sending unit.wtf?¿??

Radiator is not correct one. They have put a different one in.

The new fuel pump I bought was not correct, so I have to return it. We did crank up with fuel down the carb throat, so hopefully tonight we can be finished and I can drive her home.

 

[Joseph James]

Started up tonight. Took a short drive. Engine is running very well. Brakes still need work. Drive it home tomorrow.

Short video of initial start up.

 

[Joseph James]

Made it home. 30 minute drive. Carb not right. No power steering cap. We put rubber over it with a slit. It still leaked. Wheel shake on braking over 35 mph. But, she made it.

 

[Joseph James]

Final product. Power steering cap has always been missing. Can't source locally, but Murray Park has one, thankfully.

 

[PontiacJim]

Started up tonight. Took a short drive. Engine is running very well. Brakes still need work. Drive it home tomorrow.

Short video of initial start up.

Is the 80 that I am seeing the oil pressure??? Your video is very small window on the forum. If so, I am no Mopar expert on this, but 80 PSI is too high in my opinion. You could explode the oil filter. I would have not used a 20W-50 ever, unless it was a race engine with loose bearing clearances. A good 10W-30 should do the trick or even a 15W-40 might be a better choice and the thinner oil will drop the oil pressure - if that is what the gauge is reading and it is correct. Hopefully another member will chime in here and add some insight as to best oil used in a Mopar.

 

[Ripinator]

Is the 80 that I am seeing the oil pressure??? Your video is very small window on the forum. If so, I am no Mopar expert on this, but 80 PSI is too high in my opinion. You could explode the oil filter. I would have not used a 20W-50 ever, unless it was a race engine with loose bearing clearances. A good 10W-30 should do the trick or even a 15W-40 might be a better choice and the thinner oil will drop the oil pressure - if that is what the gauge is reading and it is correct. Hopefully another member will chime in here and add some insight as to best oil used in a Mopar.

I saw that 80- lb. reading too, and I also think it is too high. Here is the reading during my recent break-in run on my 440 engine. I used 15W-40 Comp Cams break-in oil:

 

[Joseph James]

Is the 80 that I am seeing the oil pressure??? Your video is very small window on the forum. If so, I am no Mopar expert on this, but 80 PSI is too high in my opinion. You could explode the oil filter. I would have not used a 20W-50 ever, unless it was a race engine with loose bearing clearances. A good 10W-30 should do the trick or even a 15W-40 might be a better choice and the thinner oil will drop the oil pressure - if that is what the gauge is reading and it is correct. Hopefully another member will chime in here and add some insight as to best oil used in a Mopar.

I used what the builder sent which was Joe Gibbs 20w-50 oil. It has come down since I have been running it. That video was initial start in 35 degree ambient temperature. Now, it runs about 34 at idle.

Edit: that was a Harbor Freight pressure gauge, so it may not be super accurate.

 

[Big_John]

80 PSI is a little high, but don't worry about "exploding" the oil filter. It takes a lot more than that.

There's a lot of variables, but a new engine with 20w-50 oil (too heavy IMHO) and 35 degree ambient, I would expect that type of oil pressure. Mopars tend to run a little more oil pressure than the GMs etc.

 

[Joseph James]

80 PSI is a little high, but don't worry about "exploding" the oil filter. It takes a lot more than that.

There's a lot of variables, but a new engine with 20w-50 oil (too heavy IMHO) and 35 degree ambient, I would expect that type of oil pressure. Mopars tend to run a little more oil pressure than the GMs etc.

I don't know why they sent 20W-50 but we used it so we comply with warranty. Warranty is supposed to be 7 years/100k miles. I emailed them about using ethanol containing gasoline but they haven't responded yet.