BJS racing
Well-Known Member
These are the same type shown above and what we do not use anymore for these type of connections.
Exact starter switch
- Thread starter 70NPORT
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70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
One two of the female sockets on the old ignition switch assy appear to have heated up a bit. They look disconfigured slightly as if they were melted....it is slight but noticeable. I'll have to look at the wire color again I'm not sure which socket represents what off the top of my head. Damn all I need are those little pieces and I can put this to bed.
Dang, that doesn't look at all like the one I got from them?! Mine had all the wires except the key in ignition buzzer switch two wires.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah, must have changed vendors for the part, who knows.
Good points, and people debate solder v. crimp all the time in the automotive world.
Crimping wires has its place as does soldering. At a terminal where there is no flex, the crimp is the better bet. Aircraft manufacturers use crimps on their wire terminations. In a splice, especially in an are that's not easily accessible (steering column) and a critical circuit.... I can't see why you would use a cheap butt connector. Maybe an non insulated butt connector and some shrink wrap.... I'd still solder though.
Then again... My Dad taught me to solder at age ten... and he worked for Western Electric early in his career wiring telephone switch boards and later designing and building machine controls. I forget that some people can't use a soldering iron. LOL.
But... If my ex-wife could get certified to do Mil-Spec soldering for GE, I figure others can learn too.
If you want to see how NASA addresses it, check out section 19.
http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/87394.pdf
There's a little on the Western Union (or Lineman's) splice in there too.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
many thanks Big John....very informative....I hope to keep the under dash wire splices to a maximum of none!
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
The ignition switch is in nicely, but due to moving it around to mate properly I've discovered the wiring coming out of the OEM male connector is frayed in some places and the insulation has begun to deteriorate over the decades so that parts of the conductors are showing thru....potential problem. I jiggled it slightly while parked in the garage and the motor cut off immediately....the blue wire is frayed in such a way that if its moved it breaks continuity.
So I figure the best thing to do is cut out the old plastic connector, stip the existing wires, crimp on new molex male pins and put them into a new 8 pin male connector...and snap the whole rig back together again. The wires are not brittle, but they are definitely stiffened, plus there's not much extra to strip away for a new connector. Any better ideas?
So I figure the best thing to do is cut out the old plastic connector, stip the existing wires, crimp on new molex male pins and put them into a new 8 pin male connector...and snap the whole rig back together again. The wires are not brittle, but they are definitely stiffened, plus there's not much extra to strip away for a new connector. Any better ideas?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Nope. All new male and female plug and receptor with all the wires freshly pinned is exactly what I would have done. So what if it's not OEM. You have a Champion radiator... ;-)
Don't forget the tie-wraps.
Don't forget the tie-wraps.
If you aren't fussy about originality, look into replacing the connector with a Delphi Weatherpack connectors. Two 4 pin connectors like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PER-047-12-...t=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item35bc7d7845&vxp=mtr
I'd mount one reversed from the other so you can't mix them up if you unplug them in the future.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PER-047-12-...t=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item35bc7d7845&vxp=mtr
I'd mount one reversed from the other so you can't mix them up if you unplug them in the future.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Big John hit the ideal solution.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yup. If the fix can be OEM it will be nice but I won't loose sleep if its not.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yeh, that's a nice set up. Thanks for the find. I wonder if anyone else has had to do this with the wiring in their Chrysler? It is going to be rather tedious plus there is no excess lead in the wire itself as it all comes out of the trunk....no room for mistakes.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Indeed he did.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I've been making my own replacement wiring harnesses forever. I get wire in all the colors in 16, 14, and 12 GA and pin them in the Molex Connectors. In fact, BitterSweet has been undergoing radical reconstruction surgery under the dash.
What a butcher job under there. Kwityerbitchin.
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70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
im not whining in as much as just questioning my own abilities. Messing with old wiring that hasn't been touched since the days of Jimi Hendrix makes me want to get religion-fast. It's old, there's not much slack in it, and doesn't want to bend much after 4 decades. Yikes. Im not even trying to replace the entire harness. Could dry dock the Newport indefinitely.I've been making my own replacement wiring harnesses forever. I get wire in all the colors in 16, 14, and 12 GA and pin them in the Molex Connectors. In fact, BitterSweet has been undergoing radical reconstruction surgery under the dash.
What a butcher job under there. Kwityerbitchin.
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
if u start now u could be here in the morning.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
I'll make ya some coffee.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
:laughing4:
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
These things don't come in 8 pin version do they? The connector on the switch side won't except two 4 pin connectors.
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