Exhaust fumes

[Scoopy G]

Hello all,

I am still trying to solve the issue of exhaust fumes in my '65 Town Sedan. The trunk floor is completely solid; all body plugs in the rear valence are in place; deck lid weatherstripping is new, and expertly installed by yours truly.

I have chrome exhaust tips just past the rear bumper. I've had the car up on my lift, and I can see no obvious exhaust leaks in the system. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[cbarge]

Might wanna straighten that bumper out. LOL!
The tips appear to be facing downard.
Try a 45 degree angle?? Pull the tips out 2 inches?

 

[Scoopy G]

Thanks 'Burn. My next shot was to take the tips off completely, which makes no sense, but I see modern cars and can't see the pipes coming out the back at all. My Riviera does not have this problem.

How's the new Monaco?

 

[cbarge]

How's the new Monaco?

Sleeping waiting for spring.
But yes it has the factory tailpipes with the tips BEHIND the rear bumper..no fumes.

 

[Davea Lux]

Sleeping waiting for spring.
But yes it has the factory tailpipes with the tips BEHIND the rear bumper..no fumes.

When you get around to it, the steel brake lines on the rear axle housing are improperly located. They should never be below the axle as they could get hit by road debris and get punctured or torn off.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

Hello all,

I am still trying to solve the issue of exhaust fumes in my '65 Town Sedan. The trunk floor is completely solid; all body plugs in the rear valence are in place; deck lid weatherstripping is new, and expertly installed by yours truly.

I have chrome exhaust tips just past the rear bumper. I've had the car up on my lift, and I can see no obvious exhaust leaks in the system. Any ideas? Thanks.

View attachment 577556

I had a similar problem on mine, turned out to be a crack on the top side of the exhaust. Muffler shop found it with one of those hand held thermal imaging devices.

Dave

 

[cbarge]

When you get around to it, the steel brake lines on the rear axle housing are improperly located. They should never be below the axle as they could get hit by road debris and get punctured or torn off.

Dave

Thanks. I dont like that line either.
There are a few other things I need to address as the video was an intial "as found-just bought" inspection .

 

[Pete Kaczmarski]

Same issues with one of my cars. I would suggest as a diagnosis tool to purchase a roll of weatherstripping foam (for home use) for $2 with one side with an adhesive strip. Put the adhesive side onto the existing weatherstrip. This would make it thicker and if it works to prove you need new trunk weatherstripping. I will be doing the same thing on my '70 Fury.

 

[CBODY67]

You can also use the time-honored "paper strip test". Where a strip of normal typing paper, about 1" wide and 6" long, is placed onto the weatherstrip and the deck lid (or whatever) is then closed on it. A drag when you then pull the paper to remove it verifies there is contact between the rubber and the deck lid (or whatever). I saw some dealership techs use that to diagnose wind noise/leakage on "used cars". You can also use some liquid soap on the weatherstrip, then close the deck lid to see what does or does not transfer to the deck lid itself. Other substances have been used to check the mechanical validity of the weatherstrip seal, in a non-invasive manner, over the years.

Just some recollections,
CBODY67

 

[Scoopy G]

Thanks gents. I'll try the paper test and see if my new trunk seal is actually sealing.

 

['66 Fury I]

I'm looking at the bent bumper. Is there a chance that the sheet metal behind the bumper is also tweaked allowing fumes to enter around the tail lights, trim or an open seam? Just a thought. Lindsay

 

[Scoopy G]

Thanks Lindsay, I'll have to give this a really close second look.

 

[68er]

My issue was the tail light bezels.. they were not sealing to the body properly. I bought some peal and stick 1/2 weather strip and
made a seal about the light assembly. This stopped the fumes from vacuuming into the trunk

 

[Toolmanmike]

It doesn't seem like the case here but I was getting fumes up through the steering column. The lower column seal was toast. After replacement the fumes went away and it was a bunch quieter in the cabin.

 

[65Port]

I'll pass along a tip from my exhaust guy when I had mine done. Get a rubber hose about 2' or so long. 5/16" should work but other sizes will work. I really would not go above 3/8" however. Get the car up and place one end to your ear and the other to any suspect part of the exhaust. Pass the hose along all the connection points and on top of the exhaust. You have to get used to it. Go slow. You will hear a distinct whoosh or papapa sound where the leak is. He actually had me do it when I asked about it. He said, "I can hear a fly fart with this thing" haha.. It's true! Good luck.

 

[Scoopy G]

Thanks gents for all the input. I think I solved the problem. Under the trunk carpet, the trunk pan had been repaired, obviously due to an accident. The welding job was pretty good, but, there were a number of small holes that were missed.

I applied several buildup coats of Lanco roof coating (a latex-based material, it rolls or brushes on, and is extremely versatile), and voila! problem solved. I suppose some dynamat would have worked well too.

 

[D Cluley]

I'll pass along a tip from my exhaust guy when I had mine done. Get a rubber hose about 2' or so long. 5/16" should work but other sizes will work. I really would not go above 3/8" however. Get the car up and place one end to your ear and the other to any suspect part of the exhaust. Pass the hose along all the connection points and on top of the exhaust. You have to get used to it. Go slow. You will hear a distinct whoosh or papapa sound where the leak is. He actually had me do it when I asked about it. He said, "I can hear a fly fart with this thing" haha.. It's true! Good luck.

This works even better if you put a funnel on the end of the hose that goes to your ear.