exhaust manifold gasket

[marty koirtyohann]

)i was wandering if anyone has changed THE LEFT (DRIVERS SIDE) MANIFOLD gasket with a 440 in it on a 72 nyb did u have to remove the rag joint (steering coupler )heat sheild. mine was all ready damaged * domeone put hollow nuts on a log manifold ?
weallmost had to T&R The 440 . i was just wanding what uall u had to go through

where can i find a new coupler (mines cracked up pretty bad ) @ a reasonable price ( 200 bucks is not a rasonable price to me amc obsolete has them for 200 bucksi found one @ rock auto for 50 bucks . has anyone used one of them? More Information for LARES 220

 

[Big_John]

The factory never put exhaust gaskets on the big blocks. If yours blew out, the next one will do it too... It'll just take a little time.

I never run exhaust gaskets on the big blocks.

 

[marty koirtyohann]

The factory never put exhaust gaskets on the big blocks. If yours blew out, the next one will do it too... It'll just take a little time.

I never run exhaust gaskets on the big blocks.

ok i know rom the factory they never used a gaket on them but i hsve never had any luck with mtl to metal i rebuilet the 440 UTe felpro composite gasket blew out on both ends . i had a spair manifold so i had my retired mashinist grind it smooth (I should had him do that to the old manifold)

 

[CBODY67]

Sounds like you might need to get the manifold surfaces machined a bit? IF they used a "rotating rock" surfacer, those might take a bit more metal off on the ends of the ends (where the rock first touches the work item) than the middle. Put a straightedge against the mounting surfaces to check for flatness, end to end.

As for "header gaskets", get the "black" ones which have a metal wire reinfocement in them. Much better durability than the more common "asbestos color" ones, by observation. When installing the exhaust manifolds, start tightening from the middle and work outward to the ends, in about two steps of torque. Then maybe a little bit more torque on the end bolts for good measure?

CBODY67

 

[marty koirtyohann]

's sSounds like you might need to get the manifold surfaces machined a bit? IF they used a "rotating rock" surfacer, those might take a bit more metal off on the ends of the ends (where the rock first touches the work item) than the middle. Put a straightedge against the mounting surfaces to check for flatness, end to end.

As for "header gaskets", get the "black" ones which have a metal wire reinfocement in them. Much better durability than the more common "asbestos color" ones, by observation. When installing the exhaust manifolds, start tightening from the middle and work outward to the ends, in about two steps of torque. Then maybe a little bit more torque on the end bolts for good measure?

CBODY67

WELL WHEN WE FINALLY GOT THE ON OFF we didnt have a good straightedge so we used a old framing square & the oem manifold was a bit wrapped @ THE front &r ear . we knew we would have to clean it up so i had anouther one of the same yr off a polara with a in it o i hade my old school semi retired machinist put it on his old school surface grinder he ground the rust off the replacement one & MADE it true again & WiIh he jegs house brained all copper they fit will & sealed now for the rubber steering cupler have u changed yurs yet
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