Fel-Pro cork Valve cover gaskets SUCK!

The hipo 375HP TNT motor in my 300 Hurst has those 'performance' factory manifolds so close to the valve covers that every few years they have to be changed just due to the heat which dries out the gaskets, makes them brittle, and then they start to weep. There is an exhaust manifold gasket which has an upper additional 'flap' that sticks up between the manifold and the valve cover that helps preserve both the gasket and also the paint on the valve cover itself. Can't remember who makes it. Looks a little goofy, but solves two problems.
 
I use fel pro with no issues.
Be sure the valve cover flange is not distorted.
Glue the gasket to the valve cover, clean the mating surface on the head. No sealant on the bottom side.
A dab of red locktite on the cover bolts/screws.
Torque to spec. Re torque after a couple of heat cycles.

Same applies to the oil pan gasket.

I try to avoid using silicone sealers.
 
Trick is gluing gaskets to VC. I use the yellow 3M trim adhesive, some don't like that because too hard to remove from VC. Rtv needed when head casting is just that uneven.
 
I use fel pro with no issues.
Be sure the valve cover flange is not distorted.
Glue the gasket to the valve cover, clean the mating surface on the head. No sealant on the bottom side.
A dab of red locktite on the cover bolts/screws.
Torque to spec. Re torque after a couple of heat cycles.

Same applies to the oil pan gasket.

I try to avoid using silicone sealers.
40 inch pounds, correct?
 
So far the Fel Pro cork valve cover gaskets I used last Fall are doing nicely. The trick is, TORQUE TO SPEC. Don't go OVER, lest you distort them. Don't go under, or the oil will slide out. If ONLY I had no other oil loss issues than that, but alas, valve guides are fukt WAY over....... BUT, my cork gaskets are good! :)
 
The hipo 375HP TNT motor in my 300 Hurst has those 'performance' factory manifolds so close to the valve covers that every few years they have to be changed just due to the heat which dries out the gaskets, makes them brittle, and then they start to weep. There is an exhaust manifold gasket which has an upper additional 'flap' that sticks up between the manifold and the valve cover that helps preserve both the gasket and also the paint on the valve cover itself. Can't remember who makes it. Looks a little goofy, but solves two problems.
Are you talking about the FEL-PRO MS90425? I have those on my 1971 T-code Monaco. No issue after almost 10k miles.

1656607361762.png
 
Are you talking about the FEL-PRO MS90425? I have those on my 1971 T-code Monaco. No issue after almost 10k miles.
Those appear to be a VERY SENSIBLE means of blocking heat from rising to where it isn't of any use. I might have to get these next time I take the exhaust loose from the heads....
 
I just snugged them down with a 1/4 ratchet and give it a half turn more . I don’t use a torque wrench . For me I do it by hand . No need for a lot of torque . After that, I’ll let the car idle for a while till it’s up to temp and check for smoke / leaks. Then I go for a cruise or two and check them again. Easy peasy
 
I have ditched all stamped steel valve covers for aluminum that have machined surfaces that mate with a steel impregnated silicon valve cover. Problem has vanished.
 
I have ditched all stamped steel valve covers for aluminum that have machined surfaces that mate with a steel impregnated silicon valve cover. Problem has vanished.
What covers do you use? Sounds interesting.
 
I have ditched all stamped steel valve covers for aluminum that have machined surfaces that mate with a steel impregnated silicon valve cover. Problem has vanished.
1970 Fury Convertible 440/727.
I spent a lot of hours cleaning, priming, painting, and installing stock valve covers. Aluminum not an option, although pics would be cool to see.
Stock valve covers torqued at 40"lbs. I may have overtorqued, but Moroso generic directions are 80"lbs. Of course, that is all makes and models.
Moroso 93055 Instructions.jpg
PXL_20240320_154349906.jpg
PXL_20240315_195557213.jpg
PXL_20240315_195742068.jpg
 
I just snugged them down with a 1/4 ratchet and give it a half turn more . I don’t use a torque wrench . For me I do it by hand . No need for a lot of torque . After that, I’ll let the car idle for a while till it’s up to temp and check for smoke / leaks. Then I go for a cruise or two and check them again. Easy peasy
What gasket silicone did you use? Thanks!
 
Back
Top