67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
This is how I do it there's many many ways to do it and I'm sure someone has a better one. But this is what I found works for me. start to finish including these pictures was about 30 minutes for 10 holes. Each process was done for all holes at the same time, so tack, then weld, then grind, etc etc etc.
This is a trim hole for the belt line trim on the front fender of my 67 Monaco. The disc centered in the hole is 3/16" across with roughly .030 gap all the way around. It's held in place with a magnet on the backside. After the first tacks on the plugs the magnets are removed.
Tack it up. I'm using MIG since I don't have TIG at this time though I'm sure it would be much easier. My settings for something like this is wire speed on a scale of 1 - 10 is roughly 6. Amps about what you'd use for 3/16" CRS. Why so hot? I stay on the trigger less than a second and that gives me great penetration to the backside. Also I clip the wire before each pull of the trigger. Why? I want the same type of arc and penetration with each trigger pull. Balled tips don't offer the same control of the arc. Does it waste wire? mmmmhmmmmm Is it ugly? You bet your *** it is.
Grind the proud weld with a cut-off wheel at 90 degrees and bring it nearly flush with the original metal. I'm still working on the art of dressing welds so it's ugly. But the process is the same no matte what.
Bring it down a bit more with a 2.5" 40 grit roll lock disc.
Hit it with a medium grit flexy spongy roll lock disc thingy..
Quick run over it with a 80grit DA.
And finally a brown 3m scotch bright pad to bring back my sins of hitting the fender with the cut-off wheel. This will get a skim coat of filler after I finish stripping the rest of the the paint off.
This pic to be changed later as I don't like the blurriness of this one.
But that's just how I does it.
This is a trim hole for the belt line trim on the front fender of my 67 Monaco. The disc centered in the hole is 3/16" across with roughly .030 gap all the way around. It's held in place with a magnet on the backside. After the first tacks on the plugs the magnets are removed.
Tack it up. I'm using MIG since I don't have TIG at this time though I'm sure it would be much easier. My settings for something like this is wire speed on a scale of 1 - 10 is roughly 6. Amps about what you'd use for 3/16" CRS. Why so hot? I stay on the trigger less than a second and that gives me great penetration to the backside. Also I clip the wire before each pull of the trigger. Why? I want the same type of arc and penetration with each trigger pull. Balled tips don't offer the same control of the arc. Does it waste wire? mmmmhmmmmm Is it ugly? You bet your *** it is.
Grind the proud weld with a cut-off wheel at 90 degrees and bring it nearly flush with the original metal. I'm still working on the art of dressing welds so it's ugly. But the process is the same no matte what.
Bring it down a bit more with a 2.5" 40 grit roll lock disc.
Hit it with a medium grit flexy spongy roll lock disc thingy..
Quick run over it with a 80grit DA.
And finally a brown 3m scotch bright pad to bring back my sins of hitting the fender with the cut-off wheel. This will get a skim coat of filler after I finish stripping the rest of the the paint off.
This pic to be changed later as I don't like the blurriness of this one.
But that's just how I does it.
