Fury dashboard speakers

[Micmaynard]

I'm looking for pictures of a dashboard with the 3 speaker setup because I'm considering retrofitting my car with the left-right side speakers instead of just the center 4x10.
Any photos or recommendations would be great.

 

[CBODY67]

To do so, you'll need the model-specific speaker grilles for each side. Which attached from "top down", which would also mean the windshield will need to be removed to install them, unless you remove the complete instrument panel, do the installation, then put the whole thing back in. A LOT Of work!

That's IF you can find the speaker grilles, PLUS the brackets to mount the speakers under them!
A parts car would be needed, I suspect.

CBODY67

 

[71Polara383]

To do so, you'll need the model-specific speaker grilles for each side. Which attached from "top down", which would also mean the windshield will need to be removed to install them, unless you remove the complete instrument panel, do the installation, then put the whole thing back in. A LOT Of work!

That's IF you can find the speaker grilles, PLUS the brackets to mount the speakers under them!
A parts car would be needed, I suspect.

CBODY67

Just need a donor dash pad. With grilles/brackets underneath.

It's not too hard to pull the entire dash assembly on fuselage cars.

- Drop the column. 3 - 7/16 nuts on studs. Remove the 2 studs running thru the dash frame that support the column. Double nut method usually works.

- Unplug the bulkhead under the hood.
Remove the 2 Phillips screws or 5/16 bolts that hold the fuseblock to the firewall.

- Pull kick panels and A pillar covers.
- Unplug anything connected to the dash harness behind the drivers kick panel. As well as the interior light switches in the door jams
- loosen the 2 - 7/16s bolts that hold the dash frame behind kick panels.
- 4 5/16 bolts in the defrost vents.
- roll the dash back and disconnect anything still connected.
- walk entire dash out to work area.

- have fun!

 

[68 4spd Fury]

Ambitious. I'm not sure if they interchange but B/E body types may be more available or reproduced. Another option, unless you're set on the OEM look, would be get some doner kick panels and mount speakers to them? Just a thought.

 

[CBODY67]

On the 1966 cars, when the kick panels are removed, there is a place where some 4x6s or 4" round speakers look like they would fit nicely. Then some foam on the backside to make their own little speaker enclosure. The molded curves might flatten enough for a surface mount grille, I suspect, or make uour own grille out of some fine mesh wire, with the speakers mounted to the flanges of the cowl panels?

Something I investigated on our '66, but never did.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[71Polara383]

On the 1966 cars, when the kick panels are removed, there is a place where some 4x6s or 4" round speakers look like they would fit nicely. Then some foam on the backside to make their own little speaker enclosure. The molded curves might flatten enough for a surface mount grille, I suspect, or make uour own grille out of some fine mesh wire, with the speakers mounted to the flanges of the cowl panels?

Something I investigated on our '66, but never did.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Lots of room for some 5" or even 6" round speakers in the kick panels on a fuselage car too.

 

[bnz84]

If I remember correctly the grill is metal comes out from the top. Should come out without interfering with windshield. It screws in from bottom where there is a mounting bracket that sandwiches the dash mtrl between speaker grill and mounting bracket. Then the stock speaker mounts to the mounting bracket. I dont rember if the cres that connect to the grill also go through the speaker. Passenger side would not be hard but the drivers side is tight. Gott pull the cluster to get at the bottom mount screws. Evebn then the tolerances are tight and force you into speakers that are super puny or like I did just wide range tweeters. Depth on drivers is maybe 2-2.5" but the issue is width. the stock speaker has a narrow magnet and just clears the dash mount for the clock. The speaker in the pic was too wide at the magnet. Replaced it with a smaller one. Perhaps a nice neodymiummagnet 3.5" would work . They have small magnets but not many people make them. Maybe Home

Yes, for me I replaced 4x10 with 2 4x6 plate speakers also and made an enclosure. works pretty good

 

[fury fan]

@bnz84
Exactly what I was going to say - that smaller neodymium magnets might be the answer for speakers that would fit.
I'm a car-audio nut also, but I've not delved into dash-top speakers too much, because the options for things that fit are too limited. (and none of my cars take 3.5s anyway)

I bought a set of these recently, and they sound really good in my initial impression. I am evaluating them with a tweeter and an adjustable/active crossover, so that helps.
But they aren't a drop-in solution for the dashboard either.
I am working on a small enclosure and faceplate with tweeter, to install them at the bottom corner of the dash by the kickpanels.
Or maybe to the floorboard area ala the dimmer switch. (undecided)

 

[bnz84]

I was working with another guy who is better a electrical than myself and was on a schedule. But If I had more time it is very likely I would have chosen to cut the dash support behind /on top of the clock to make a 3.5 fit. That would have eliminated the magnet width issue. Depth still would need <=2" because deeper hits the clock. Well that is fixable too. The clock mechanism should be replaced with a quartz conversion anyway. Smaller for sure. Amazing how such a big car have such packed spaces.

As it stands now even though the wide range tweeters (plays down low enough to get midrange) will need tuning. Perhaps just a bass blocker cap, but maybe more. I am considering a DSP unit all connected to a Bluetooth receiver but want optical connection because of all the electrical noise in our cars.

My kicks were already cut by the previous owner so I will install 6.5 separates there but again I think I'm going to need small magnets to avoid cutting so I lucked out when I found these at an auction.

Polk Audio MM6502 6.5” 750 Watt Component Car/Marine/ATV/Motorcycle Sp

 

[fury fan]

I've been using this Boss BX55 active crossover (~$75) for most of my audio stuff (with amp boards from amazon) - setups in the basement workshop, computer desk, house garage, detached garage. A sickness for sure. But I've developed a useful 'system' for making decent-sounding audio on a budget.

I have recently gotten one of these for ~$135, and it has LOTS more capability. Contains multiple crossover/filter types and slopes, EQ settings, time delay, and more. It's much like programming an engine to run on EFI and ignition timing by creating all the tables from scratch. But my initial impression is that it's vastly more worthwhile than the BX55 if you want the best possible sound.

But back to @Micmaynard:
If you cant find reproduction grilles, there are some other options out there if you don't mind modifying your dash. If you painted them to match, they'd even look decent.
But depending on what the standard 4x10 dash is built like, you might be modifying it regardless.