Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

... it's as lazy as sticking on Buick portholes from PepBoys.
I enjoy the looks I get when I ask if they really wished their Honda was a Buick?

As to the rest of the debate... Never use a hammer on your new car with lightweight/aluminum FE parts... I almost always use one one old steel/cast iron FE parts. If you strike the side of part that the BJ stud goes into, the connection almost always separates quickly and easily. I used to own a cheap pickle fork, but I ruined it splitting fire wood... which it did better than anything on a car. I also own a couple pickle forks for my air chisel (small,large) that I have used a couple times when I didn't feel I had clearance for a hammer swing... but almost always regretted it... I bought them in a bundle of used Snapon air tools early in my career. I don't think they would work at all without a badass air chisel. The large pickle fork that would knock apart a BJ is almost as likely to become wedged in the joint as separate it. I bet they split fire wood good too...
 
check out my thread in the brakes section. I just completed the drum to disc on my 68 fury wagon. I went with the 73 spindles and related factory hardware. swap went easy and brakes work fantastic.
 
So...I've managed to find and obtain a pair of 73' spindles with caliper brackets...they ship to me next week. Ain't NO turning back now. THANKS TO ALL who have provided pics and related info; the pics ALONE take a lot of the fear out this for me. Unfortunately, Murphy has been the law in my life recently and I guess this was part of the reason why I was so hesitant to jump in. I fully expect that SOB to show up at some point of this effort, but I feel I'm much better prepared to deal with any of his BS. I still need to get the pwr brake MC, rotors, calipers and related parts. I know Rock Auto has this stuff all day...but like I said before the fact still remains; I've NEVER done this before. So lock your door and buckle up, this could be a crazy ride.
 
You already know standard procedure.
1. Take pics at each step of the disassembly so you know which way the gozzinta goes on when you put it back together.
2. Do one side at a time so you have the other side as a reference.
3. The other side will go together in ⅛th the time of the first side.
 
4. Lose the negativity. You can and will do this. We're all here to help. **** Murphy and his law!
 
You already know standard procedure.
1. Take pics at each step of the disassembly so you know which way the gozzinta goes on when you put it back together.
2. Do one side at a time so you have the other side as a reference.
3. The other side will go together in ⅛th the time of the first side.
I'm printing that an sticking it to the wall. lol
 
I stand by my Miller ball breaker as the only way to go.
Upper Ball Joint from knuckle- what is the best way? | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums

On ebay as we speak...
Remover Upper Control Arm B/Joint 70's C3711 Special Antique Part

s-l1600.jpg




From Moparts :
I am a believer now! used it lastnight on the driverside and it popped it right off! easier than whacking the knuckle with a hammer.

Thanks for posting this.




Quote:
You need one of these Ball-Joint Separator Tools:
Works great. In fact, the FSM calls for using this Miller tool.


30igw1i.jpg
 
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Upper Ball Joint from knuckle- what is the best way? | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums

On ebay as we speak...
Remover Upper Control Arm B/Joint 70's C3711 Special Antique Part

s-l1600.jpg




From Moparts :
I am a believer now! used it lastnight on the driverside and it popped it right off! easier than whacking the knuckle with a hammer.

Thanks for posting this.




Quote:
You need one of these Ball-Joint Separator Tools:
Works great. In fact, the FSM calls for using this Miller tool.


30igw1i.jpg

The 70 FSM calls for C-3964. It's a puller rather than the tool shown.

I'm going from memory here, but I think the way the spindle is formed you won't have enough room to use the C3711.
 
The 70 FSM calls for C-3964. It's a puller rather than the tool shown.

I'm going from memory here, but I think the way the spindle is formed you won't have enough room to use the C3711.
Thank you, John.
Gary: Disregard everything I said about the tool... :p
 
So...I've managed to find and obtain a pair of 73' spindles with caliper brackets...they ship to me next week. Ain't NO turning back now. THANKS TO ALL who have provided pics and related info; the pics ALONE take a lot of the fear out this for me. Unfortunately, Murphy has been the law in my life recently and I guess this was part of the reason why I was so hesitant to jump in. I fully expect that SOB to show up at some point of this effort, but I feel I'm much better prepared to deal with any of his BS. I still need to get the pwr brake MC, rotors, calipers and related parts. I know Rock Auto has this stuff all day...but like I said before the fact still remains; I've NEVER done this before. So lock your door and buckle up, this could be a crazy ride.
Don't forget to get a disk-brake proportioning valve.
 
I used the prop valve from the 73 fury wagon donor car. the yard sent me all the lines had to replace the master cylinder as the rear port was rusted shut. everything bolted in place to the power booster that the car already had. the original lines were in great condition as were the rest of the parts. glad I bought from a Texas yard vs a rustbelt yard.
 
Alright...I'm confused now: DO I need this pickle fork thing...(like the one samplingman or Detmatt have illustrated) or just a big hammer? Honestly I'm not crazy about wacking away at stuff under there with just a hammer...but if that's the best method so shall it be.

Parts list:
73' Disc brake spindles
Calipers (and related hardware)
New hydraulic disc brake hose(s)
Proportioning valve
Pwr disc brake MC (already have PWR brake booster, I can keep that?)
Brake Pads
Missing anything?
 
I used the prop valve from the 73 fury wagon donor car. the yard sent me all the lines had to replace the master cylinder as the rear port was rusted shut. everything bolted in place to the power booster that the car already had. the original lines were in great condition as were the rest of the parts. glad I bought from a Texas yard vs a rustbelt yard.
I checked it out crazyboutwagons...nice illustration of the steps you took to get it done. I'll be referring to that also. Thx!
 
Alright...I'm confused now: DO I need this pickle fork thing...(like the one samplingman or Detmatt have illustrated) or just a big hammer? Honestly I'm not crazy about wacking away at stuff under there with just a hammer...but if that's the best method so shall it be.

Parts list:
73' Disc brake spindles
Calipers (and related hardware)
New hydraulic disc brake hose(s)
Proportioning valve
Pwr disc brake MC (already have PWR brake booster, I can keep that?)
Brake Pads
Missing anything?

I think you have everything. I believe the booster is the same, but someone else might be able to tell you 100%. If not, check your parts book.

Pickle fork or not? You can always try the hammer first and buy a pickle fork if that doesn't work for you. You will need a big hammer (BFH) no matter what you do, and the part you are hitting is the part you are taking off. Here's a couple videos that might help you.







 
Are the lower ball joints the same for drums and discs?
 
I think you have everything. I believe the booster is the same, but someone else might be able to tell you 100%. If not, check your parts book.

Pickle fork or not? You can always try the hammer first and buy a pickle fork if that doesn't work for you. You will need a big hammer (BFH) no matter what you do, and the part you are hitting is the part you are taking off. Here's a couple videos that might help you.







Ok, than. Looks like I'm gonna invest in a good sized sledge hammer. Thanks for clearing that up Big John.
 
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