Giving New Life To An LL1 Dark Turquoise 1967 Plymouth VIP, A True Garage Find.....

Now that the new piece is seam sealed, we put some black rust protectant on it. Now all we gotta do is buy some factory turquoise paint, paint it, and put the new trunk mat we bought in it. HOWEVER, before we do that we are gonna start working on the rear window channel and fix some rust issues there. Thank you all for following along so far, it is much appreciated.......


VIP NEW Trunk 10.jpg




VIP NEW Trunk 11.jpg



VIP NEW Trunk 12.jpg
 
best update I have read in a good while, THANKS for sharing these photos. As far as rear windows go, since it's a FasTop, that will be time well spent.
 
Hi Everyone,

I got a few updates on the VIP project. Now that the trunk is temporality done we bought some new load adjusting coil-over shocks to replace the old shocks, and put them in.......


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And while my stepdad was underneath the car replacing the shocks, he also put the new gas tank in. The box the tank came in is the first picture below......


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While he was also at it and the car was in the air on the jacks, which is before all these pictures, my stepdad took the back right drum off to inspect the brakes. He told me they were new near so he put the car down and put one of the turbine wheel covers we are gonna use on, so he knew its good and to see how it would look......


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Last but not least, at least for the time being is the start of the rear window channel. Since that is next on the list, we took the outside chrome off. Now all we gotta do is take the inside pieces out then we can take the window out and start working on it. This is all for now though, I would say in my personal opinion that we are making tremendous progress on this project. More to hopefully come soon.......


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Hi Everybody,


I don't really have an update on the car, but I just wanted to let everyone know that we painted the fuel filler neck.......

VIP Tank 6.jpg
 
And we also bought a new gas tank grommet too. The part number is INL15417. This is all for now, more to come hopefully soon......


tank grommet 1.jpg



tank grommet 2.jpg
 
speaking of paint - is the beeyootiful turquoise on that Fury the original paint? There's a good tutorial out there on rejuvenating original metallic lacquer finishes, I can try to forward it if might help.
 
here's the tutorial I used with my '67 New Yorker:

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
.

A bit involved, but working in stages, I had good results (see attached), and brought it from somewhat dull to nicely presentable. The clay bar made me a little nervous, so I skipped it, but since then, others on here advised me I didn't need to be, so it may be just fine. Main thing is to approach old paint like old leather, it needs moisturizing, which Meguiar's #7 did well. Messy to remove if you apply like the tutorial says, but it really does make a difference. The finish was much easier to work on, and takes wax better after using it. is.

There are plenty of other waxes, etc., to use, avoiding solvents/cleansers seems to be the key. I followed the Meguiar's with Zymol liquid cleaner/wax (all natural) and finished with a coat or two of carnuba. Hope this helps.

SterlingLeftSide.jpg
 
1967 Chrysler products had enamel paint.

They did not have lacquer paint, that’s a GM thing
 
When I saw you posted a link it reminded me of a tutorial I had seen awhile back.
That's the one, so you saved me digging for it.

:thumbsup:
During the winter I talked with a guy who's a professional detailer. He recommended using the Zymol cleanser FIRST as an initial prep. THEN follow with Meguiar's as a "hydration step," followed by a natural wax, with as high a natural carnuba percentage as you can find (or afford). Leaving the Meguiar's on for a day or two (which happened by accident) seemed to help. Good luck! and go in stages if needed.
 
That does make sense about cleaner-first. Would be logical to get to the bare surface of the paint and not try to hydrate thru the impurities.
But as an amateur, I would suggest the clay bar first, as its cleansing mechanisms are readily known, and the difference after a surface has been clayed is remarkable.
I'll admit I don't know anything about the Zymol cleaner, but I am skeptical that it can do any better than claybar. Can't get much better than awesome...
 
That does make sense about cleaner-first. Would be logical to get to the bare surface of the paint and not try to hydrate thru the impurities.
But as an amateur, I would suggest the clay bar first, as its cleansing mechanisms are readily known, and the difference after a surface has been clayed is remarkable.
I'll admit I don't know anything about the Zymol cleaner, but I am skeptical that it can do any better than claybar. Can't get much better than awesome...
I hesitated with the claybar because my metallic finish doesn't have a lot left of it, but if you don't have that, the clay bar is probably a better first step. You may not even need the Zymol (which someone else showed me at a car show) as a cleanser. It is an extremely mild cleanser, and is all natural. Makes a nice wax, though.
 
Clay bar is great. It can put some surface scuffs in the paint. But it doesn’t remove any paint, just the dirt imbedded in the paint. paint will be very smooth after it’s done, and the surface scuffs will be gone after you polish the paint.

Try it on a daily driver car that sits outside every day. Do a part with clay bar, and another without a clay bar. Then polish the paint on both sections. You will be conviced after doing this That clay bar is a good starting point.
 
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Clay bar is great. It can put some surface scuffs in the paint. But it doesn’t remove any paint, just the dirt imbedded in the paint. paint will be very smooth after it’s done, and the surface scuffs will be gone after you polish the paint.

Try it on a car that sits outside every day. Do a part with clay bar, and another without a clay bar. Then polish the paint on both sections. You will be convin Ed after doing this That clay bar is a good starting point.
Agreed. Toss a cotton polishing towel across both surfaces.
The non-clay surface will stop the towel.
The clayed surface allows the towel to slide off the car and hit the ground.
 
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