Instrument panel lights

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

I have problems with the lights on the instrument panel and all other lights that use the dinner switch. Car is imperial 1969. I get No current to the fuse ( current goes to the dimmer switch to the fuse and then to lights)

The dimmer switch also turn on the dome lights when on max light. That dont work either.

The switch seems very hard to locate. Looks like a pain in the as to remove and replace/check

What to do?

 

[CBODY67]

If it's like our '72 Newport, all of the instrument panel illumination comes from the front side of the panel rather than from the backside of the panel. All of the lights are in the ledge just below the edge of the instrument panel pad closest to the driver. About four individual bulbs. If you gently feel that area, you can feel where they all are. Just over the center of the steering column, is the ground strap for the lights. If there is not a screw holding it to a metal piece, the circuit might not be complete. Even if the screw is loose (as it was on our car), it can make sufficient contact to make the lights work, but they could become intermittent in nature, which is only noticed at night. Which is how I discovered the loose screw in the ground strap, the next day.

Perhaps the actual ground is located somewhere else, but having that screw tight in its hole keeps things together so they work as designed?

From my experiences,
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

I have problems with the lights on the instrument panel and all other lights that use the dinner switch. Car is imperial 1969. I get No current to the fuse ( current goes to the dimmer switch to the fuse and then to lights)

The dimmer switch also turn on the dome lights when on max light. That dont work either.

The switch seems very hard to locate. Looks like a pain in the as to remove and replace/check

What to do?

Have @Devinism rebuild the switch for you. That's probably the most practical and least expensive.

What happens is the rheostat and the wiper that contacts the rheostat get dirty and worn over the years. Sometimes you can clean them up with contact cleaner, but often it's just easier to get it rebuilt and call it a day. No matter what, it still has to come out... My thoughts are that the more of a PITA to remove and install, the more I just want it fixed to be done with it, and that's why I suggest getting it rebuilt.

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

Have @Devinism rebuild the switch for you. That's probably the most practical and least expensive.

What happens is the rheostat and the wiper that contacts the rheostat get dirty and worn over the years. Sometimes you can clean them up with contact cleaner, but often it's just easier to get it rebuilt and call it a day. No matter what, it still has to come out... My thoughts are that the more of a PITA to remove and install, the more I just want it fixed to be done with it, and that's why I suggest getting it rebuilt.

Thanks! But my problem is that I think that the switch is VERY hard to remove. Im not sure, but seems like the instrument panel must be removed and thats a lot of work!

i managed to remove the cable to the light in the drivers ash tray. If I put 12 volts there the lights gome in on the IP and on the drivers power windows pad on the door arm rest.

 

[CBODY67]

Perhaps downloading the Chrysler Parts Manual, which should have the expanded views of instrument panel components, might help in determining how things might come apart? Plus looking at the Chrysler/Imperial factory service manual for guidance. Then considering how the cars were assembled at the factory can help too. Sometimes, when these things are done, a better course of action can be developed, by observation.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

If it's like our '72 Newport, all of the instrument panel illumination comes from the front side of the panel rather than from the backside of the panel. All of the lights are in the ledge just below the edge of the instrument panel pad closest to the driver. About four individual bulbs. If you gently feel that area, you can feel where they all are. Just over the center of the steering column, is the ground strap for the lights. If there is not a screw holding it to a metal piece, the circuit might not be complete. Even if the screw is loose (as it was on our car), it can make sufficient contact to make the lights work, but they could become intermittent in nature, which is only noticed at night. Which is how I discovered the loose screw in the ground strap, the next day.

Perhaps the actual ground is located somewhere else, but having that screw tight in its hole keeps things together so they work as designed?

From my experiences,
CBODY67

Perhaps downloading the Chrysler Parts Manual, which should have the expanded views of instrument panel components, might help in determining how things might come apart? Plus looking at the Chrysler/Imperial factory service manual for guidance. Then considering how the cars were assembled at the factory can help too. Sometimes, when these things are done, a better course of action can be developed, by observation.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

I have all need to do it, but it looks like horrible work. Did it on a Cadillac 1967 and that car is easier than om this imperial

 

[Big_John]

I have all need to do it, but it looks like horrible work. Did it on a Cadillac 1967 and that car is easier than om this imperial

One thing you can do is rotate the switch back and forth a lot of times. Sometimes that will get the switch working well enough to get it working by wearing away the oxidation on the rheostat. That might not fix it, but sometimes you'll get lucky and it will work ok for a while.

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

One thing you can do is rotate the switch back and forth a lot of times. Sometimes that will get the switch working well enough to get it working by wearing away the oxidation on the rheostat. That might not fix it, but sometimes you'll get lucky and it will work ok for a while.

Thats a good idea!

 

[saforwardlook]

I am working on a 1970 Chrysler instrument panel since I am going through a complete restoration of this car and even with the dash pulled out those are a ***** to work on so working on them in the car is just so much more painful.

I did a short assignment in the instrument panel lab when I worked for Chrysler starting in 1969 in Highland Park Michigan and the guys doing the design work did it with them mounted upright with stands on each end of them to provide the upright support and that is the way they designed them with almost no thought for how easy they are to work on in the cars. The guys in the lab gave me crap when I said to them "why don't you design them so they can be accessible to techs when mounted in the car". They laughed at me and told me to go back to California where I came from. There were no engineers around in that lab either and the techs did all the cobbling of those messes on their own. The 71 instrument panels were significantly better but still no home runs...............................

 

[CBODY67]

You should have asked then "What part of General Motors did you used to work for?" As much as I like the looks of the Fuselage cars, the prior generation of C-body looked like they were much easier to work on, especially under the hood for a non-cruise control car. Whereas with the Fuselage cars, they appeared to try copying GM on how they did things, like the hidden blower motor and such. Just my observations, back then.

To their credit, they were probably designing things to be assembled off-line in the assy plants. Where the completed assys are walked into the car (front seat is not installed yet) and bolts are attached. Then the linkages, vac hoses, and cables are joined together. What they FAILED to understand is that if they made things easier for repair "in the field", the less labor time to complete a repair AND decreased warranty costs would result, saving the corporation money in the process. What they probably figured was that "This stuff will last over a year, so no worries about warranty costs." BTAIM

CBODY67

 

[Devinism]

1969 Imperial had 2 different style dimmers.
This style I rebuild

This style I do not

You might want to at least feel up behind it to see if it is even plugged in.

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

I am working on a 1970 Chrysler instrument panel since I am going through a complete restoration of this car and even with the dash pulled out those are a ***** to work on so working on them in the car is just so much more painful.

I did a short assignment in the instrument panel lab when I worked for Chrysler starting in 1969 in Highland Park Michigan and the guys doing the design work did it with them mounted upright with stands on each end of them to provide the upright support and that is the way they designed them with almost no thought for how easy they are to work on in the cars. The guys in the lab gave me crap when I said to them "why don't you design them so they can be accessible to techs when mounted in the car". They laughed at me and told me to go back to California where I came from. There were no engineers around in that lab either and the techs did all the cobbling of those messes on their own. The 71 instrument panels were significantly better but still no home runs...............................

ave a mid-size Pontiac från 1974. The difference between the 60s and 70s are huge, at least the in serviceability of the instrument panels.

1969 Imperial had 2 different style dimmers.
This style I rebuild
View attachment 608493
This style I do not
View attachment 608494
You might want to at least feel up behind it to see if it is even plugged in.

Thanks! But its hard to reach

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

I tried to remove the map lamp and fader switch. The connectors are burried deep inside. Hard to reach if they exist

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

If it's like our '72 Newport, all of the instrument panel illumination comes from the front side of the panel rather than from the backside of the panel. All of the lights are in the ledge just below the edge of the instrument panel pad closest to the driver. About four individual bulbs. If you gently feel that area, you can feel where they all are. Just over the center of the steering column, is the ground strap for the lights. If there is not a screw holding it to a metal piece, the circuit might not be complete. Even if the screw is loose (as it was on our car), it can make sufficient contact to make the lights work, but they could become intermittent in nature, which is only noticed at night. Which is how I discovered the loose screw in the ground strap, the next day.

Perhaps the actual ground is located somewhere else, but having that screw tight in its hole keeps things together so they work as designed?

From my experiences,
CBODY67

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

I have griound, its the 12 v supply thats missing.

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

I finally managed to get the switch out!

Insted of removing the instrument cluster as the service manual says, I did remove the long ac duct under the instrument panel and then the parking brake assembly (3 screws). Then I removed the rest of the ac duct just behind the outlet (the round outlet to the left), Then I removed the ignition switch.

After that I gained access to the switch. It wasnt easy, but i managed to remove the 2 philips screws.

The switch needed a lot of cleaning and some sandpapering to work.

Now I have to get it all togehter again. That should be a pain in the....

 

[Devinism]

I finally managed to get the switch out!

Insted of removing the instrument cluster as the service manual says, I did remove the long ac duct under the instrument panel and then the parking brake assembly (3 screws). Then I removed the rest of the ac duct just behind the outlet (the round outlet to the left), Then I removed the ignition switch.

After that I gained access to the switch. It wasnt easy, but i managed to remove the 2 philips screws.

The switch needed a lot of cleaning and some sandpapering to work.

Now I have to get it all togehter again. That should be a pain in the....

View attachment 612802

View attachment 612803

View attachment 612804

I rebuild 4-5 of this type per month. You do need to get it apart (the rivets) to get at the corrosion that is between the contact (green corrosion) and the rheostat (spring)

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

I rebuild 4-5 of this type per month. You do need to get it apart (the rivets) to get at the corrosion that is between the contact (green corrosion) and the rheostat (spring)

Its cleaned now! Thats a before pic

 

[Devinism]

Its cleaned now! Thats a before pic

I suggest testing with an OHM meter before installing. You will need to have continuity between terminals "R" and "I" while rotating the thumbwheel

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

I suggest testing with an OHM meter before installing. You will need to have continuity between terminals "R" and "I" while rotating the thumbwheel

I have tested it in the car, but not installed it. Just connected it to the connector.