Is original color important?

I thought this was rather mundane, so I changed it -
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to this -
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There's some bits of it I wish I'd done differently, but the color change itself didn't hurt anything. And the other changes I've made primarily benefitted me. Oh, BTW, the top photo was when I bought it, circa 1978, I'm still driving it so resale doesn't mean much to me.......
 
Fender tags tell the story of a car. I like the cars as original as possible so everything matches the tag. My car is a 68 300 like yours and is the original color HH1 Antique Ivory. But, these cars don't go for a tremendous amount of money, so make it whatever color you want. I don't think the color change will lower the value by much, if any. I think if you do crazy hood scoops, change the body panels in any way, make it a low rider, that would be a deal breaker for me.

I tend to agree. When I mentioned lowering, I meant an inch in front. Not so sure, but they look like they could use it.

I couldn’t make it to Carlisle this weekend. It would have been nice to see a White WW1 (I think) done right.
 
To me, the main issue with a color change is how well it was done. That means covering the original color in ALL places it was originally applied. That means the inner fender shields, the firewall, the bottom side of the hood and deck lid, etc. Many will remove the front clip sheet metal and do the repaint that way, so it'll "look factory".

On a normal repaint, many of those areas can be cleaned and masked-off from overspray. Either way, the door jambs might need some new paint on them for the best look.

Remember, too, that white can hide a good many "things" under it that will need additional attention with darker colors. I like white on those cars. My '66 Newport Town Sedan is white. For additional accent, you can add a coordinating color into the upper belt-line chrome's stamped inset. But you can do that with any color.

In the end, using a factory color for that year might be best. Any repaint will need to be of at least OEM-quality for the best "investment protection".

It's your car, your money, and your dreams. On the other hand, it's also an appreciating investment if done correctly. Which means, you might not be in love with "white", but the next person with money in their hand might. For those people, being able to tell them it was repainted in the original color CAN mean a higher transaction price. Many variables and many side issues, unfortunately.

In a "white" repaint, be SURE to make sure that the color formula is an OEM Chrysler "white". Ford white is creamier and GM white is bluer in shade. Other "whites" can have a gray tint, by observation. So accuracy is important.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I see comments about value, resale, next owner, etc. I personally will own my fleet until death so none of that matters to me. Like some here, I'm passionate about the fender tag DNA matching what the car really is. With that said, one of my lesser desirable collector cars is a 1971 Charger 500 which will undergo a full restoration. It's rare; 1 of 182 with 383, 4-speed pistol grip and AC, but I can't stomach the color. Any other 1971 color I would live with proudly compared to this color. K-6 autumn bronze/ dark bronze poly. It looks like rust to me! Or like corten steel (the steel that's designed to weather/rust used on steel power poles). Bleck!!!
The car has full black vinyl and black interior. I've owned the car since 1998 and for 20 years I have been all set to change it to white vinyl top and interior and a 71 hi-impact color; J-6 Green Go/ Sassy Grass Green, or C-7 Plum Crazy/ In-Violet Poly, or E-5 Bright Red/ Rallye Red.
Two weeks ago I was at the East Tennessee Mopars 30th annual car show in Knoxville with my 71 Super Bee and in chatting with some long-time members, I lamented on the distain with the K-6 color on my 71 Charger 500. One of them looked at me and said, "Well you do notice that there are all those 1971 hi-impact colors here at the car show BUT, there isn't a single K-6 Dark Bronze car here...." I was like, "Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnggggggggggg! You have a point!" BUT, I doubt that comment will keep the original color and I'll be having a J-6 Green Go Charger 500 one day!
 
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Have them mix a little more metallic flake in it for more "pop" in the sunlight. Maybe even a bit of red pearl on top of that, too? "Color change" or "color tweak/shift"?

As I recall, that particular 383 should have a Holley 4160 with 1.56" primaries and 1.75 secondaries. For about 700cfm? Later, that same part number Holley was "universalized" with race bowls, dual fuel inlets, and an electric choke . . . I have a new one in the box with that stuff on it from Holley. Quite a bargain, from Holley, at the time, AND the only time that throttle bore sizing ever happened in Holley, from what I recall. By comparison, other 780s were 1.69/1.69, but this one is 1.56/1.75.

CBODY67
 
I see comments about value, resale, next owner, etc. I personally will own my fleet until death so none of that matters to me. Like some here, I'm passionate about the fender tag DNA matching what the car really is. With that said, one of my lesser desirable collector cars is a 1971 Charger 500 which will undergo a full restoration. It's rare; 1 of 182 with 383, 4-speed pistol grip and AC, but I can't stomach the color. Any other 1971 color I would live with proudly compared to this color. K-6 autumn bronze/ dark bronze poly. It looks like rust to me! Or like corten steel (the steel that's designed to weather/rust used on steel power poles). Bleck!!!
The car has full black vinyl and black interior. I've owned the car since 1998 and for 20 years I have been all set to change it to white vinyl top and interior and a 71 hi-impact color; J-6 Green Go/ Sassy Grass Green, or C-7 Plum Crazy/ In-Violet Poly, or E-5 Bright Red/ Rallye Red.
Two weeks ago I was at the East Tennessee Mopars 30th annual car show in Knoxville with my 71 Super Bee and in chatting with some long-time members, I lamented on the distain with the K-6 color on my 71 Charger 500. One of them looked at me and said, "Well you do notice that there are all those 1971 hi-impact colors here at the car show BUT, there isn't a single K-6 Dark Bronze car here...." I was like, "Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnggggggggggg! You have a point!" BUT, I doubt that comment will keep the original color and I'll be having a J-6 Green Go Charger 500 one day!
I'd stick with the K6, for that reason, you don't see them. A friend has a GK6 71 GTX 440+6 4 speed car repainted yellow, he didn't like the color either. Everything else is redone to stock, and the color can always be changed back to stock as well. It's only money, right?!
 
I have absolutely no problem with a color change, considering...

If you are keeping the car stock/factory otherwise stay within colors that could have come on the car, maybe not an exact shade but a color that looks like a color that is era correct.

That you paint EVERYTHING that was body color the new color, nothing that kills value is skimping and telling everybody that.


Alan
 
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An owner before me did a color change on my Fury - from Medium Blue to Black. It does give the car presence from 20 feet away but he did a lousy backyard job with overspray everywhere, missed and flaking spots and the original colors left showing on door jambs, under the hood, etc. I am now having body work done on the car and am taking it back to the original color. I can't wait.
 
Different color under to conditions:
1. Appropriate to year, make, and model.
2. Entire car is stripped down to the shell.

Rarely do I see #s 1&2 done together.
 
Different color under to conditions:
1. Appropriate to year, make, and model.
2. Entire car is stripped down to the shell.

Rarely do I see #s 1&2 done together.
Because it's expensive! I think I can get away with leaving the windows and interior in place and spray the car. The jambs are painted black, the trunk is the color I'm going with and that's already done. I'll pull the engine and trans and hit the engine compartment, doors, hood, trunk lid. Will the inside of the doors have the correct overspray? No, but I don't care. And if every body man tells me no, then I'll break figure it out when I get there.
 
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I see comments about value, resale, next owner, etc. I personally will own my fleet until death so none of that matters to me. Like some here, I'm passionate about the fender tag DNA matching what the car really is. With that said, one of my lesser desirable collector cars is a 1971 Charger 500 which will undergo a full restoration. It's rare; 1 of 182 with 383, 4-speed pistol grip and AC, but I can't stomach the color. Any other 1971 color I would live with proudly compared to this color. K-6 autumn bronze/ dark bronze poly. It looks like rust to me! Or like corten steel (the steel that's designed to weather/rust used on steel power poles). Bleck!!!
The car has full black vinyl and black interior. I've owned the car since 1998 and for 20 years I have been all set to change it to white vinyl top and interior and a 71 hi-impact color; J-6 Green Go/ Sassy Grass Green, or C-7 Plum Crazy/ In-Violet Poly, or E-5 Bright Red/ Rallye Red.
Two weeks ago I was at the East Tennessee Mopars 30th annual car show in Knoxville with my 71 Super Bee and in chatting with some long-time members, I lamented on the distain with the K-6 color on my 71 Charger 500. One of them looked at me and said, "Well you do notice that there are all those 1971 hi-impact colors here at the car show BUT, there isn't a single K-6 Dark Bronze car here...." I was like, "Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnggggggggggg! You have a point!" BUT, I doubt that comment will keep the original color and I'll be having a J-6 Green Go Charger 500 one day!

I think for a rare car with desirable options like your Charger has,changing the color would alter the car in a major way almost to the point of customizing it.
I'm usually not a big fan of color changes and find I prefer seeing cars redone in their original colors as it seems you see less of those now then cars that have been changed to hi-impact colors.

Personally,I really like the FK6 color when it looks fresh and the metallic still pops but it often seemed to turn to mud brown after being out in the elements over time and looked kinda bleh after that.Have you seen a Mopar in FK6 with really good paint? It might sway your opinion.
 
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I found this brochure showing the Polar White. This looks good. If I can get back this look, I'll stay with the original white.

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I'm trying to think when the last time was that I saw a white 68 300, let alone a white convertible. You won't see one in our neck of the woods, that's for sure!

White is one of those colors that can really look good without a lot of messing around... Compared to black (which I love) that takes a lot of time to keep it looking nice.
 
An owner before me did a color change on my Fury - from Medium Blue to Black. It does give the car presence from 20 feet away but he did a lousy backyard job with overspray everywhere, missed and flaking spots and the original colors left showing on door jambs, under the hood, etc. I am now having body work done on the car and am taking it back to the original color. I can't wait.

When I got my F100 it was painted light blue. However the original color was holly green over wimbledon white. When you opened the hood or slid into the cab that is what you saw. On the bed where paint was flaking off you saw the original color. Naturally this drove me crazy and would eventually have to correct this issue. So one day I went to work and disassembled the truck. The tricky part was the separation of the two colors as 1) the long straight line down the entire body and 2) the edges where the wimbledon white overlapped the green on back sides right down to how Ford taped them. Fortunately someone had exact pictures of an original red/white truck and he emailed them all to me.
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What the heck were you doing in Cazenovia? and which way were you headed? I'm west of there.
I was on my way back home from Bennington , VT where we wnet to the Hemming Motor News special Friday the 13th car cruise in...
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Yes! I do think if a color change is going to be made, it should be made right or not at all. But that is because the glaring obviousness of a door or hood that doesn't match whenever I opened them would drive me crazy. If it doesn't bother someone else then it doesn't matter.
 
Ahh... So if you took Rt 20 the way, that's a great drive. When you passed through Skaneatles, you were about five miles from where I live.
We did take route #20 it was a great drive for the majority of the trip there & back.
 
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