Lead or no Lead?

Walter67

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I'm sure that this issue has been addressed before but since I am a relative Newbee to the site I hope someone will offer some informed opinions...

I have read online many conflicting statements about the need or lack of need to use Lead Substitute in original (not rebuilt) motors.

I have been using Lead substitute in my 67 Sport Fury and have in my previous classics as well. However I am relatively sure that the previous owners didn't use Lead. The car doesn't burn any oil and seems to be fine to this point.

My question is..."Is there a need to use Lead substitute or is this just a fallacy?"
 
I don't think we put enough miles on these cars for it to make a difference. What you should be doing is running an additive in your fuel to counter the effects of the ethanol unless you're running pure fuel without the ethanol. I run 1 oz of two cycle oil with TC-W3 per 5 gallons of gas at every fill up. This additive will provide protective lubrication for the whole fuel system.
 
I'm one who drives older, (pre no lead), cars on a regular bases. One requires premium fuel, (69 440), and two others that can use regular fuel, (65-69 318's).
I add 2-4 oz's of marvel oil to a tank, every other tankful.

If/when rebuild time come then I will upgrade to hardened valve seats.
 
I have never added anything to my Fury, just filled it up and drive and it purrs like a kitten. The one thing I have done is put oil made for diesel engines in it to keep the rockers lubricated. It makes a difference - without it, when I start up the engine in the morning, my rockers are bare and clattering until the oil gets up to them. With the diesel oil, the engine is always quiet no matter how long it has been sitting.
 
I don't think we put enough miles on these cars for it to make a difference. What you should be doing is running an additive in your fuel to counter the effects of the ethanol unless you're running pure fuel without the ethanol. I run 1 oz of two cycle oil with TC-W3 per 5 gallons of gas at every fill up. This additive will provide protective lubrication for the whole fuel system.

This what I have been doing all summer. Definitely the cheapest route. I swear it is running better. I have small 2 oz bottles I put the oil in. I can squeeze it into the tank much easier than trying to pour it in.
 
If you're not doing something about the ethanol in today gas you will be sorry you didn't at some point.
 
If you're not doing something about the ethanol in today gas you will be sorry you didn't at some point.

Yep start lining up fuel system parts, tank, lines, pump. The 2 cycle oil is cheap and easy because we don't have cats it is okay if you over treat just more oil to coat all the parts, preventing corrosion.

FWIW I am not a fan of lead substitute 1. Its not tetraethyl lead-octane stabilizer/booster with side benefit of lubrication and cushioning of the valve and seat area.
2. With low lift, small duration, light spring valve train on a stock or close it will take a long time to wear these out unless you are running really high miles per week. When they do wear out have the hardened seats put in as Will mentioned.
 
FWIW I am not a fan of lead substitute 1. Its not tetraethyl lead-octane stabilizer/booster with side benefit of lubrication and cushioning of the valve and seat area.

my dad gave me the rest of his stock of the real tetraethyl lead additive for me to use :thumbsup:
 
I use the Lucas fuel treatment for ethanol every time I fill up. a mechanic friend told me its cheap insurance against the ravages of the ethanol blends of today.
 
I use the Lucas fuel treatment for ethanol every time I fill up. a mechanic friend told me its cheap insurance against the ravages of the ethanol blends of today.

Anyone else use Lucas for that? Is the protective effect real? Which is best -- 2 cycle oil or Lucas?
 
I have a couple local places that sell 91 octane ethanol free. I will use that gas going forward.
 
Can someone please explain to me why if ethanol eats fuel systems and small children for lunch, how come I have had ZERO problems with it?

We have had the stuff in regular gas in Canada for years. My 88 Ramcharger plow truck that I bought last year has 3 year old gas in the tank (no Stabil or any other snake oil) and it fired up and went to work in the cold. Is the gas stale? You bet and it liked to warm up before you asked it to do much but NO fuel system problems.

My 66 New Yorker is equally neglected. Parked in the snow bank all winter, 2 year old gas in the fuel cell, and the 493 fired up instantly this spring just like it always has.

The 65 Polara wagon is less neglected in that it gets driven all summer and is stored indoors (unheated) for the winter but once the fuel pump filled the carb (318 poly) with that deadly last year's batch of ethanol gas, it too fired right up and drove home.

I have had small engines occasionally refuse to start after sitting many months with old gas in them but after dumping out the old and in with the new, Vrooom.

I think the real problem lies in the myriad of other nasty chemicals found in gas such as MTBE and others but my experience suggests gas in Ontario doesn't use the same ones as the US if that is the problem.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_gasoline_additives

Kevin
 
Can someone please explain to me why if ethanol eats fuel systems and small children for lunch, how come I have had ZERO problems with it?

Ethanol is a solvent. Not as powerful as say acetone but a solvent nonetheless. Since it sits in the lines 24/7 it still can cause problems although E10 is nowhere as bad as E15 is. As for MTBE it has been banned in CA since January 2004.
 
Ethanol creates 34 percent less energy than unadulterated gasoline per gallon. This equals a loss in fuel economy of up to 3 miles per gallon for E10 fuels. In terms of heat, ethanol produces 76,330 BTU per gallon, whereas diesel fuel produces 128,450 BTU per gallon, gasoline 116,090 BTU per gallon and LP gas 84,950 BTU per gallon. The fuel economy gets even worse with E85, a loss of 7 to 8 miles per gallon with its higher ethanol content. Consumer Reports, testing in 2006, verified a loss in fuel economy of up to 30 percent in a Chevy Tahoe designed to run on flex fuel when it was tested with both unleaded gas and E85. Poor fuel economy can also be attributed to improper fuel system calibration based on computer feedback from oxygen sensors because of the temperatures needed to burn ethanol. Virtually any grain considered feedstock can be used to make ethanol, but some grains are better for producing ethanol than others. Corn happens to be one of the worst grains for making ethanol but we produce so much more of it than any other grain that it was the ingredient of choice for U.S. ethanol producers. In South America, ethanol is produced from sugar cane, which is easier to refine and gives a higher yield per acre than corn (1,200 gallons per acre vs. 300 gallons per acre of corn). The U.S. government did impose a 55 cents per gallon tariff to prevent the import of sugar cane-based ethanol into the United States, though that tariff has recently expired). Ethanol is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water more easily than gasoline. That leads to water condensation inside fuel tanks, carburetor fuel bowls and fuel lines where air spaces are present. Water content in fuel will also swell up the paper filter media inside fuel filters not specifically designed for flex fuels and can thus restrict fuel flow at the filter. Ethanol also erodes fiberglass tanks, rubber hoses and plastic fuel lines. It contributes to rust in fuel systems by creating condensation in the unfilled portion of gas tanks. It will also dissolve varnish and rust in steel fuel components. These dissolved ingredients sit in the bottom of gas tanks until they are removed or they will enter the fuel system if the fuel level in the tank gets too low. - See more at: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/...fects-on-collector-cars/#sthash.DBlkYc8G.dpuf
 
I put a few gallons of 100 low lead aviation gas in mine every now and then. 100 octane with lead in it. 5.25 a gallon but worth every penny. My 73 Cessna requires it so why should my 73 Imperial be deprived? Lol. Get it at any local airport. I was in Buffalo last weekend, and they wanted 8.25 for 100 octane "racing" fuel that still had ethanol in it! Just be careful with it.. make sure you ground your vehicle when putting it in, it's very potent and aromatic. It's blue in color so you know what it is.
 
Every carbureted car I own has better manners running with some 110 leaded mixed with pump gas of any variety. It really helps the percolation issue in the heat of summer.
 
I just bought a bottle of the Marvel Mystery Oil to add a few ounces to the tank. I have found a couple of places close by just south of Buffalo that do sell E-Free gas. I do plan on getting my fill-ups there when ever possible.
 
I looked for ethanol free gas stations in my area. The closest is 37 miles some of the areas worst traffic. The next is 48 and still not where I would drive Goldie. Guess I will be burning ethanol gas.
 
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