I am looking into a trailer and not sure about the length and width. I plan on it being load rated at 7000 lbs, which would be plenty for anything I ever plan on putting on there. I was thinking a 20ft trailer should do it, but I was hoping I could here ideas or opinions from those who own them. Thanks in advance.
Looking to buy a car Trailer? Size?
- Thread starter jake
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Open or enclosed?
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
About a 16-20ft trailer should be fine with most things. At 20ft you can have a little bit of hang-off and be able to carry a few extra parts along the way. Engine block etc.
Get something with a little extra width in case you need to haul a dually or wide nose car.
My vote is on a wood bed. Dovetail, tandem axle. Your choice of brakes.
Get something with a little extra width in case you need to haul a dually or wide nose car.
My vote is on a wood bed. Dovetail, tandem axle. Your choice of brakes.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
7000 rated enclosed would be too light. Take away the 3000+ for the trailer and there isn't enough payload. 7K would have to be open.
Last edited:
68_fury_ragtop
Member
Be sure to check the the trailer laws in your state, but defiantly make sure it has 4 wheel brakes. Some Mfg. only come with 2 wheel brakes as standard since 4-wheel brakes are not required for all states. You will also want to make want to be sure it has the break away option that will apply the brakes if it disconnects. The other thing to get; which will make towing much easier is a weight distribution hitch setup with sway control. With a heavier car on a long tip will make your life much easier. As far as the length I have a 18 foot open trailer. It is fine for towing now and then, and getting an occasional parts car. I tied A 20 foot once, and the length didn't gain me much, plus it was much tougher in tight parking lots.
open
Agree that having brakes on both axles are a must. Are you looking to buy new or used? Steel or aluminum? Be ware of Chinese made wheel hubs and bearings. Dexter axles are good quality. A torsion suspension rides better than leaf springs.
Recommend a beaver (sloped) tail section. An open center keeps the weight down and gives you better access to tying down the car. Just my 2 cents.
Recommend a beaver (sloped) tail section. An open center keeps the weight down and gives you better access to tying down the car. Just my 2 cents.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Wood deck is heavy with no advantage.
Open center is easier to load IMO.
Sloped tail is good as long as your driveway or somewhere you go alot has no steep angle, then it is a pain.
Make plans to change the bearings out unless it is proven to you that there are not Chinese bearings in there. Tires and valve stems can also be suspect. Just don't think you have free and clear for a few years with Chinese parts they $#/t the bed pretty quick.
Open center is easier to load IMO.
Sloped tail is good as long as your driveway or somewhere you go alot has no steep angle, then it is a pain.
Make plans to change the bearings out unless it is proven to you that there are not Chinese bearings in there. Tires and valve stems can also be suspect. Just don't think you have free and clear for a few years with Chinese parts they $#/t the bed pretty quick.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
The problem with open center is when you want to load yard debris, tree trimming waste, furniture etc. If you just use it for car hauling ok but for multi purpose I'd go closed center.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Lots of good input, love Dovetails, I prefer electric brakes, brakes on both axles, center closed. Depending on what you do with it, think about adding a tool box on the front with a battery and adding a electric winch.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
My preference for an open trailer...
Rapidtrans777
Well-Known Member
What is your tow vehicle? A 1/2 ton pickup could be pushing the margins of safety with out careful consideration of the size and weight of the trailer. As a 40 year veteran truck driver I have seen plenty of "tail waggin' the dog" accidents. Tow vehicles don't recover well when things go south and the trailer/cargo outweigh them. Is it going to be a multipurpose trailer or strictly cars? Cars only? Like @70bigblockdodge mentioned, go open, easy to strap down and lighter. If you ever want to haul a riding mower, four wheelers, washer & dryer, help someone move, you'll want a closed floor like @azblackhemi said.
Mine trailer is a 20' dovetail. 2-7000lb axles, 86" between fenders. Its heavy, but it hauls whatever I can fit on it. From my Fury's to a Cat 287b (about 12000lbs with a bucket and grapple). I tow it with a 2001 Dodge 2500 4x4. It handles it fine. My boy hooks it to his Dodge 1500 he can go coon hunting with his headlights.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Here's mine. It's a 20 foot steel deck with a winch. One thing I like about it is the axles are set pretty far towards the rear. It never gets the tail wagging even hauling a car backwards. Oh and as Stan will tell you the most important thing you want on your trailer is road wheels. 
My open trailer with an open center:
My 2 cents worth
I spend 5 days a week 52 hours working on trailers....
Points of construction you want;
-Electric Brakes on both axles
-Slipper suspension
-LED lights
-15 inch radial tires
-2 or 4 foot beavertail (we're Canadian, that's Dovetail to you Yankees)
-Solid deck (open center is a pain, I've had both, closed deck is so much more versatile)
-18 or 16 inch crossmember spacing.
Preference points;
-welded receiver
-bulkhead
-proper sliphooks
-breakaway system (not required in canada, but is stateside to my understanding)
-I prefer a wood deck, I saw weight mentioned, the difference is so minor between the weight of a wood deck and a steel deck it's not funny.
-reverse lights are a very handy thing to have
-loading lights are also super handy.
-drop legs at the rear are a very good idea
I personally am not a fan of tilt deck trailers.
Not a fan of aluminum trailers, they do not hold their value enough to justify the initial investment like a steel trailer does, more common for broken welds at fatigue points.
My trailer has an 16 foot deck with a 4 foot beaver tail. My ramp angle is 15 degrees exactly.
I built it myself from 1/4" wall tube, my cross members are every 16", I have 225/75R15 Goodyear Marathon tires on 6 inch rims, it has a HD slipper suspension, the axles are 3500lb with 10" Electric Brakes on both sets, it is all LED, the beavertail is 1/4" plate steel, underneath it is overly framed.
Basically my trailer is complete overkill, I built it so that if I ever want to I can put 5200lb axles or 7000lb axles under it....
If you have any questions ask away. Whatever I don't know my boss will.
Nick
Jensentrailers.com
I spend 5 days a week 52 hours working on trailers....
Points of construction you want;
-Electric Brakes on both axles
-Slipper suspension
-LED lights
-15 inch radial tires
-2 or 4 foot beavertail (we're Canadian, that's Dovetail to you Yankees)
-Solid deck (open center is a pain, I've had both, closed deck is so much more versatile)
-18 or 16 inch crossmember spacing.
Preference points;
-welded receiver
-bulkhead
-proper sliphooks
-breakaway system (not required in canada, but is stateside to my understanding)
-I prefer a wood deck, I saw weight mentioned, the difference is so minor between the weight of a wood deck and a steel deck it's not funny.
-reverse lights are a very handy thing to have
-loading lights are also super handy.
-drop legs at the rear are a very good idea
I personally am not a fan of tilt deck trailers.
Not a fan of aluminum trailers, they do not hold their value enough to justify the initial investment like a steel trailer does, more common for broken welds at fatigue points.
My trailer has an 16 foot deck with a 4 foot beaver tail. My ramp angle is 15 degrees exactly.
I built it myself from 1/4" wall tube, my cross members are every 16", I have 225/75R15 Goodyear Marathon tires on 6 inch rims, it has a HD slipper suspension, the axles are 3500lb with 10" Electric Brakes on both sets, it is all LED, the beavertail is 1/4" plate steel, underneath it is overly framed.
Basically my trailer is complete overkill, I built it so that if I ever want to I can put 5200lb axles or 7000lb axles under it....
If you have any questions ask away. Whatever I don't know my boss will.
Nick
Jensentrailers.com
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Wood soaks up water, good for Chris in the desert, for the rest of us that have had rain out the a$$ this year leaves no time to seal it. Pine does not belong under a load supporting dynamic weight bouncing down the road and wet hardwoods are HEAVY (4.8# per foot on 5/4 white oak at 20-25% moisture kiln dried) popular would be the minimum wood, again pine does not belong.
Most open decks have the runners sitting on top/welded hanging on crossmembers. Usually 4x4 lengthwise with OSB board screwed to it will fill in the center to pile garbage on top just don't overload.
Most open decks have the runners sitting on top/welded hanging on crossmembers. Usually 4x4 lengthwise with OSB board screwed to it will fill in the center to pile garbage on top just don't overload.
A little to expensive for me.
That is what I am thinking, I have a 2009 dodge ram 1500. I pull a 4500lb camper all over America with it and have not had any issues so far.
Nice work!!
My deck is pressure treated maple...I previously had non-pressure treated maple and After 4 years it looked the same as it did the day I put it down, every day at work I see 7-8 year old trailers with wood decks that still are in good shape. The initial cost to go with a steel deck is prohibitive for most, and putting down OSB is a half assed way, every single thing you load isn't the same size, at the end of the day I can load ANYTHING on my trailer and not have to worry about it being strong enough in that spot. Track width is not an issue. I can load a lawn tractor or a 4x4 with 35's on that deck.
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