Master cyl/ booster for '65 fury

mlittle

New Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
20
Reaction score
9
Location
Tennessee
I have purchased '73 disc spindles for my Fury. I am now in the process of gathering parts for the conversion and was wondering what years Master cylinder/ power booster combo will "bolt up" on my car
 
Last edited:
Match everything for absolute best results... I presume -- since you don't say -- that you got everything off a 1973 -- which is the car of choice for this conversion....
If everything is matched perfectly -- you won't abandon the project half way through it....
The 1969 - 1972 set up is much more expensive however (I do have those components in stock) -- that is why everyone tries to use the 1973...
And even then, I have the N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ Brake Pads -- and you would be smart to use them and only them.....
 
I went thru this problem when I converted my 66 300 to disc brakes. I tried to use a 72, 73 booster and master and found out it bound up my shift linkage. Ended up going to the 67, 68 disc brake booster and master and everything was fine.
 
Well, I received my parts and the 1973 power booster will not fit my 65' Fury, it hits the exhaust manifold and inner fender. I thougt it would fit my car because the '65 has the cable shift linkage. I'm going to try the booster traintech55 suggested.

By the way traintech do you work for a railroad like me?
 
In my 1966 Sport Fury, I have a 440 motor with HP manifolds and ending up finding a Bendix Dual Diaphragm Booster that fits perfectly'. I tried a different one from Cardone ,but it wouldn't fit because of the exhaust manifolds

Ken
 
Kenmdale I wish I had seen your post sooner, I have the same engine and manifold combination in mine. What aplication booster did you buy? do you have a picture of your setup?
 
I bought the booster from someone on this forum, it came from a 1967 New Yorker. You can also get them from Booster Dewey or TheRamMan Ill send you a picture tomorrow. When you buy the master cylinder watch for the thread sizes , as they change in different years

Ken
 
Here are some photos of brake boosters I promised

First one is a Midland booster for power drum/drum
Second picture is the booster that Cardone said would fit but didn't
Third picture is the Bendix Dual Diaphragm (not finished installing yet)
The information off the Raybestos Website for Master Cylinder setup for Disc/drum . The master cylinder for a Plymouth Fury 1967 and 1968 had a rear brake fitting of 9/16-18 thread count. The master cylinder for the 1969 and 1970 has a rear brake fitting of 9/16-20 thread count. The four of these master cylinders appear to have a bore of 1 1/8 inches. I could not find any info on the 1966 Fury with Disc/Drum brakes


Hope this is of some help
1.jpg
boos.jpg
IMG_7859.jpg

1.jpg


boos.jpg


IMG_7859.jpg
 
The middle picture is the same problem I was having. I found a power unit like the 3rd picture at Oriley's. I have it ordered, thanks for your help. Nice color on your car.
 
I ordered one that looked like the 3rd booster from Cardone, the one they sent me was the 2nd booster and said it would fit

Cheers

Ken
 
This is the one I ordered from Cardone,but they told me they don't have any of them, and sent me some other piece of crap that wouldn't fit
5473604-lef.jpg
Zoom [h=4]BrakeBest Brakes - Brake Booster[/h] Line: BHH | Part # 54-73604

Hopefully they will send you the right one.


You might want to confirm the one in the picture is the one you are getting. I just went through this crap from Cardone about a month ago

Ken
 
No joy! they sent me the booster shown in Kenmdale's middle picture. It irritates me that they all show a Bendix style booster then send you a booster that they say will fit, but it won't fit my application. Anybody know where I can get the Bendix booster?
 
call ralph at ECI.

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...-ECI-c-body-brake-kit&highlight=saylor+brakes

im pretty sure stormer said he got a kit + booster + mc ?


the MC I got is listed somewhere in that ^^ post. I think its 1 and 19/32 dia. piston or something.

but ya - im using the stock drum/drum single booster on a 68 furyand it is adequate. im not doing powerstands on the brakes or autocross or anything, just trying to stop for a light.

- saylor
 
I used to. I taught employees how to repair electric rail cars and retired June 1st. For the Booster, I got mine from Rock Auto, and the master from AutoZone. They look like they do not go together, but you have to work the master on the booster. Good luck.
 
Just a little advice from the peanut gallery here... Whatever calipers you are using, find the piston diameters of the master and the rear wheel cylinders for that same system. Also you want to make sure the rear drums are the same size as the transplant or you should consider changing them out too. You might already be there, but just in case... The piston sizes are what causes you to multiply force to the brakes, if you mess with them you will have brakes that apply too weak or too strong. It would be a bad thing for the front and back to not be matched. Using a donor car, you could have taken the entire system... even if it wasn't all bolt on you would have easy reference pieces and the combination/proportioning valve to match the system, even if it didn't match the car.

Mixing and matching brake components is a little dicey because its a critical safety system. Other than finding parts to fit physically, the diameters of all the pistons are matched for force and travel. It is possible to not have enough pedal travel with a system not designed to be there. Imagine hitting the brakes hard and your pedal reaching the floor without a hydraulic failure... you may find you need other pieces like pedal assemblies to make it all come together.

If your careful and very critical of your results, you should be ok. Just stay away from "good enough" mentality... brakes are too critical.
 
Just a little advice from the peanut gallery here... Whatever calipers you are using, find the piston diameters of the master and the rear wheel cylinders for that same system. Also you want to make sure the rear drums are the same size as the transplant or you should consider changing them out too. You might already be there, but just in case... The piston sizes are what causes you to multiply force to the brakes, if you mess with them you will have brakes that apply too weak or too strong. It would be a bad thing for the front and back to not be matched. Using a donor car, you could have taken the entire system... even if it wasn't all bolt on you would have easy reference pieces and the combination/proportioning valve to match the system, even if it didn't match the car.

Mixing and matching brake components is a little dicey because its a critical safety system. Other than finding parts to fit physically, the diameters of all the pistons are matched for force and travel. It is possible to not have enough pedal travel with a system not designed to be there. Imagine hitting the brakes hard and your pedal reaching the floor without a hydraulic failure... you may find you need other pieces like pedal assemblies to make it all come together.

If your careful and very critical of your results, you should be ok. Just stay away from "good enough" mentality... brakes are too critical.

Seconded! I could not agree more with that post. Far too many people seem to take brakes for granted.

Years ago, I went out with the Wrecker to an accident. Three kids and their mother killed, the driver seriously injured. The reason? The driver had done a brake mod. he didnt have the skills to do and called it "good enough."
 
I see these idiots doing brake jobs in the autozone parking lot with a monkey wrench, a screwdriver, and a hammer, and I am just horrified.
 
I checked and the donor car had 15/16 wheel cylinders on the rear, same as my '65. Thanks for everyone's input.

traintech, The problem with the booster is that it will not clear the fenders and exhaust manifold on my car. I have a 440 with the HP manifolds, that's why I need the Bendix booster.
 
I checked and the donor car had 15/16 wheel cylinders on the rear, same as my '65. Thanks for everyone's input.

traintech, The problem with the booster is that it will not clear the fenders and exhaust manifold on my car. I have a 440 with the HP manifolds, that's why I need the Bendix booster.

There is a Mopar bracket available that lifts the booster up out of the way of everything. Costs somewhere around $70 complete last time I saw one.
 
Back
Top