3175375
Senior Member
Check all of those actuators and the mode control switch while you have everything apart as well as the linkage adjustments. Good sleuthing!
Meet Buttercup, a 1972 New Yorker Brougham 2-door Hardtop
- Thread starter ayilar
- Start date
In your dreams…No, seriously, she’s wonderful and this is just R&R. Redoing the front end too — ball joints and bushings for sure.
$3000.00 CDN.
Well, that’d be less than @Ripinator ’s offer at today‘s exchange rate... Add a zero or two and we might be talking
Here is the latest update on Butter Cup, heater box blend doors were removed, cleaned and restored w DMT foam seals. As you can see some trimming was necessary for proper fitment. Adessive used was 3M 90 High Strength. Properly used these foam pieces will stay put.
The drivers door rattle is a result of missing rubber trac seals and worn window regulator rollers. See photos.
Here is the latest repairs being made. First upon beginning master cyl replacement both brake lines were frozen to the fittings and lines were heavily corroded replacement was the only option. Also replaced were the caliper guide pins as a maintenance option, the front caliper pins were frozen up. New lines were fabricated and installed along w/ the master cyl brake firmness has been restored. Vac control switch was replaced w/ switch # 3502126B can be used as a replacement switch for 3502126A. A quick mode test reveals the switch functions the same as the original 3502126A. Salvaging the master cyl fittings was done w/ a punch and drilling out the remaining broken line w/ a 3/16th drill bit. I use my home-made seal driver to produce the coiled brake line. HAVC controls and the radio have been reinstalled. Heater box reinstall is waiting on the heater core and evaporator to finish final assemb.
Sounds to me like ayilar has the right guy to tackle those frustrations.
Here is the latest on Butter Cup's here at the MOPAR Resort. The front suspension was disassembled for new ball joints and control arm bushings. photos below show dry rotted bushings. see photos. Sway bar bushings were completely worn out.
To aid in reassembly the torsion bar adjustment bolts were paint indexed. Below are the tools required. Don't forget to remove the torsion bar retainers.
Could you remind me David as to how many miles are on the car? Probably around 100K given the bushings condition and need for a ball joint replacement?
Control Arm bushings are best installed by pressing them in. Use extra care in removing the lower control arm bushings. All surfaces must be free of nicks and burrs before bushing installation. Here are the upper and lower control arms ready to install. Note the bead blasting and repainting of the steering knuckles and brake rotor shields.
110,00
When reassembling install the lower control arm at the approx location of full suspension travel. This will aid in torsion bar installation.
If you noticed in post 175 the upper ball joint is partially installed. Here is what happen. There was a defect preventing the upper ball joint from screwing into the upper control arm. I did a partial ball install w/ the old ball joint allow me to finish up brake rotor and caliper install. Below are side by side pics of the defective ball joint and its replacement. Here is back on four wheels again. Next up front sway bar bushings and intermediate shaft rag joint.
I believe these cars left the Jefferson Ave Plant with plain steel lower control arms coated with a cosmoline gel, so I like the way you jazzed them up with a copper color to help assuage the tedium of a difficult job! Most restored cars just have them painted Black like the rest of the suspension.
Ayilar is fortunate to have you available to do this kind of work. Well done!
Ayilar is fortunate to have you available to do this kind of work. Well done!
Last edited:
73Coupe
Senior Member
Is simply pressing out the lower control arm bushings not possible....looks like you had to do a destructive (to the bushings) removal process.
You can remove the rubber insert and inner sleeve and weld a large washer to the outer edge of the remaining bushing sleeve and press it out from the back side, what I simply illustrated was a simple version using common tools
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
In view of David's work, I'm raising my standard FCBO C-Body offer to $3000. . .
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