Meet Buttercup, a 1972 New Yorker Brougham 2-door Hardtop

You can remove the rubber insert and inner sleeve and weld a large washer to the outer edge of the remaining bushing sleeve and press it out from the back side, what I simply illustrated was a simple version using common tools

When I was a teenager and replacing A-arm bushings on my Chevrolet back then, I think I used a hacksaw blade to cut the outer bushing shell after laboriously removing the inner sleeve and rubber bushing.
 
Wow, so much for the friends and family discount. :poke:

Although I think I got about $3500 for my NYB, but then again it was in pieces....
 
Hereis the latest update on Buttercups trips here at the MOPAR Spa. Both valve covers leaked oil requiring new gaskets and a much needed repaint.

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Both valve covers were heavily rusted. Much more time was spent prepping and grinding out the rust than the actual time painting.

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While is was there the air filter housing was in need of a little love. After sanding and sanding and many primer coats much better.

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To finish off the suspension rebuild was replacement of the rag joint. The screws were seized so steering column removal was the only option. With the column out servicing was pretty easy as the following photos show.

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Thank you @david hill -- wonderful to see the car coming along.

For those keeping track of parts, the steering coupler or "rag joint" is now reproduced by Lares (model 220). I had bought 5 of them for my cars last year, and one of them is now in Buttercup.

For the suspension parts, we used KYB 5512 front shocks (as noted earlier), Moog K772 upper ball joints from Rock Auto (one of which RA sent with a defective thread, as noted by David -- so a new one had to be gotten), and Moog K7006 (from Rock Auto) and K7007 (bought last year from Feb Boys stock liquidation) upper and lower control arm bushings. I was hoping to be able to install Moog lower ball joints (one of two sets sold to me by a member), but the K7003 right and K7005 left LBJs did not arrive early enough in Indy -- so I will use them in another car. Instead, Buttercup now sports PSL LBJs:

Order Details​
Passenger-side Lower Ball Joint
Passenger-side Lower Ball Joint
SKU: BJ10220
Quantity: 1
Final Price: $57.00
Driver-side Lower Ball Joint
Driver-side Lower Ball Joint
SKU: BJ10221
Quantity: 1
Final Price: $57.00

Given the teaser from David, I will say that I have ordered from DMT a full splash shield set as well as a set of four door bumpers (those on the driver's door are worn, so I might as well change the bunch.
 
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You are so close to restoring the convertible given all of David's fine work, you might as well go the whole way, don't you think?? :poke:
 
Next will be a discussion by @david hill of the heater core and evaporator replacement with AC Global reproduction pieces (HC5777-C copper heater core and EV5777 evaporator). Note that only the aluminum HC5777 heater core is listed on eBay; the copper HC5777-C unit is not, and you need to request it (as I did following @sixpkrt 's tip). Once you request it, there is no issue.

For those interested in the replacement parts and for other members (like @sixpkrt and @saforwardlook) who think highly of the company, see this thread on AC Global.
 
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Here is my update on @AC Global evaporator core installation. The new unit made off the original evaporator core fit pretty well w/ a few problems. First there were no provisions for clearance of the heater caser mounting studs. Using a Dremel Tool I cut reliefs into the core tin housing as shown below.

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In the next photos show how much better the offset was done on evaporator core. That allows for proper fitment of the heater core. More offset needed of the low and high pressure can be seen in the last photos.

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