Meet Regina FQ3, a 1970 Polara convertible who turns 51 today

polaratherapy

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Well Ellie May is a DL27G0D127970 built at the Belvedere plant, as mentioned the last owner was a butcher and did a lot of teenage stuff to it, monster stereo, led under carriage lights, went as far as changing the the rad overflow and wiper fluid reservoirs with 40 oz. bottles of Jack Daniels??? He has slapped in a couple of Monte Carlo bucket seats and just reoriented the bolts into the floor with no anchoring what so ever and to boot the floors are rusted right out.
I have so many things lined up for her to pass the safety, roof is shot, intake manifold needs a new gasket ,floors, dash to be redone, new carpet, I could go on and on.
You will find it difficult to get it back to stock, parts are becoming a rarity.
I plan on making what was old new and sexy with a copper wrap, carbon fiber accents and bypass a lot of the electrical and make it new with a hot rod touch. I am big on safety, so she will be safe first!
By what you mentioned it looks like you plan on spending a gazillion dollars on Regina. My plan is to do all the work myself and enjoy her company and like I mentioned I want to bring her back to respectability but with a modern touch. Here are a few pics of what she looked like when I brought her home.
Cheers Polaratherapy

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Walter Joy

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Well Ellie May is a DL27G0D127970 built at the Belvedere plant, as mentioned the last owner was a butcher and did a lot of teenage stuff to it, monster stereo, led under carriage lights, went as far as changing the the rad overflow and wiper fluid reservoirs with 40 oz. bottles of Jack Daniels??? He has slapped in a couple of Monte Carlo bucket seats and just reoriented the bolts into the floor with no anchoring what so ever and to boot the floors are rusted right out.
I have so many things lined up for her to pass the safety, roof is shot, intake manifold needs a new gasket ,floors, dash to be redone, new carpet, I could go on and on.
You will find it difficult to get it back to stock, parts are becoming a rarity.
I plan on making what was old new and sexy with a copper wrap, carbon fiber accents and bypass a lot of the electrical and make it new with a hot rod touch. I am big on safety, so she will be safe first!
By what you mentioned it looks like you plan on spending a gazillion dollars on Regina. My plan is to do all the work myself and enjoy her company and like I mentioned I want to bring her back to respectability but with a modern touch. Here are a few pics of what she looked like when I brought her home.
Cheers Polaratherapy

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I know I’ve seen this car make its rounds. Especially the hood
 

polaratherapy

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I luckily found another hood with no cheese on it at all, I plan on alternating hoods from time to time, Ellie May will be wearing different tops from time to time.
Last owner had the car for 8 years parked in a temp shelter, he says he put the scoop on himself after a tree fell on the car. Not sure to believe him or not.
 

Walter Joy

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I luckily found another hood with no cheese on it at all, I plan on alternating hoods from time to time, Ellie May will be wearing different tops from time to time.
Last owner had the car for 8 years parked in a temp shelter, he says he put the scoop on himself after a tree fell on the car. Not sure to believe him or not.
If you’re ever out in Maryland….I’ll take the hideous horrible ugly no good hood off your hands haha
 

ayilar

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@polaratherapy -- good to see you try to get Al's G-code Polara back in shape. Nice to see that you've started a garage, perhaps you may start a separate thread for "Ellie May" too so we can follow your progress?

I understand that you do not necessarily want to go back to original, but there are two areas where there is little reason to do things incorrectly if that can be avoided.

--> For the Polara tops, there are several threads discussing good suppliers as well as installation tips. In particular, Polara Dave (@polara71) has made a number of very useful posts on the topic. While unfortunately he's not a member anymore, searching for "top" and his name should lead you in the right direction. This post, in particular, should be helpful:


Additional info can be found here, as well as suggestions for additional suppliers (including one in Canada):


Regina got a new top from the original owner a few years back, so I won't change anything. But Snow White, my N-code 1970 Polara 'vert, needs a new top and I'll post about what I order and the installation progress in her own thread.

--> For the 1970 C-body convertible carpets, be aware that the way the convertible seats work is not the same as the seats of the 2-door. There are posts on the topic, @Big_John and @polara71 have made some if memory serves.
 
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polaratherapy

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@polaratherapy -- good to see you try to get Al's G-code Polara back in shape. Nice to see that you've started a garage, perhaps you may start a separate thread for "Ellie May" too so we can follow your progress?

I understand that you do not necessarily want to go back to original, but there are two areas where there is little reason to do things incorrectly if that can be avoided.

--> For the Polara tops, there are several threads discussing good suppliers as well as installation tips. In particular, Polara Dave (@polara71) has made a number of very useful posts on the topic. While unfortunately he's not a member anymore, searching for "top" and his name should lead you in the right direction. This post, in particular, should be helpful:


Additional info can be found here, as well as suggestions for additional suppliers (including one in Canada):


Regina got a new top from the original owner a few years back, so I won't change anything. But Snow White, my N-code 1970 Polara 'vert, needs a new top and I'll post about what I order and the installation progress in her own thread.

--> For the 1970 C-body convertible carpets, be aware that the way the convertible seats work is not the same as the seats of the 2-door. There are posts on the topic, @Big_John and @polara71 have made some if memory serves.
 

polaratherapy

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Thanks for all the info it's much appreciated, it's nice to have support when you plan on tackling the task " Lone Wolf Style" Have a Happy New Year!
 

polaratherapy

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Hi Ayilar, I had ordered the top already from M & T MFG. out of Rhode Island who must have subcontracted to Kee auto tops. I went for the black crushed vinyl .
They do offer a 8 yr. warranty. Are they reputable??
As for the carpeting I am aware of the different sizing for the vert' and I am planning on a custom carpet. One piece down the driver's side extending to back seat and under, same for the passenger side and to the back again and a center piece running the hump with a molding along the edges.
On another note today I spent time cutting out the floor on the driver side so I can correct " Franken Floors" Who ever did the floors before, looks like multiple repair jobs and it looks like patch upon patch covered the job with news paper, is this a proper practice?
Also everything seems to be lathered in a black goo that was brushed on kind of like a roof patch substance. Is this possibly the old Ziebart rust proofing. The former owner mentioned it was Ziebarted up to the ye ha. I have to grind down to bare metal for the welds but have been scrapping the stuff off and its down to original paint with good structure underneath.
Your thoughts and anybody else's out there would be much appreciated.

May this year be better than the last!
 

ayilar

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Guess what arrived safe and sound yesterday? @71Polara383 tells me that we will have to "re-attach the woodgrain on the one side but it should work well."

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ayilar

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2. the engine runs too warm for my taste -- it's fine when driving at 55mph (needle about 60% to the right of the middle bar), but the temp needle moves up at 65mph and gets almost to the right end of the "safe zone" (middle bar) when stopped at a light for more than a minute. Not what I want. The issue is clearly not new since the previous owner installed an electric fan in front of the radiator. I have kept that setup (after revising the wiring somewhat). Still, this palliative is not enough, and I want a more "organic" solution. As a first step, the rad will be rodded out. Second, I want to add a shroud. The part number is 2998330 -- I have been unable to find a used one (or a repro) thus far, let me know if you’ve got one. Hopefully that solves the problem.

Thanks to @marty mopar today I found a better solution that rodding out the original radiator: an NOS 2998964 22" radiator for 383-powered 1970 C-bodies without A/C. It was for sale in Iowa and it is the correct P/N so, at $255 shipped, I quickly went for it. @Rustyrodknocker was also interested but kindly let me have it as he does not have an immediate need for it. Thank you both!

For records, here are the photos from the ad in Iowa.

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JohnNOLA

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Just read all 4 pages of this restoration, definitely impressive to watch you go through the motions, and super cool to see how sharp of an eye you have for details and production runs and such.

Some of the fellas here can be more than a little curt though, and thats a shame.
 

ayilar

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Good news continue to come in for Regina: the 22-inch (P/N 2998 964) radiator has been delivered, and @71Polara383 tells me that it is very, very nice. Thanks again to @marty mopar and @Rustyrodknocker for helping me get this NOS item!

It is worth noting that the radiator that I bought is not the exact same as the one that was on Regina. MyMopar.com 's table with 1962-1974 radiator specifications (now sadly unavailable, but luckily I got the info when it was still up) lists two radiators for 1970 C-bodies with heater only: 2998963 and 2998964. The latter is what I bought. I do not have a high-resolution photo of the original, but the differences in the stamped 5-digit nbr (driver-side) and in the placement of the numbered stampings (passenger-side) are clear in the photos below:

1. Regina's original radiator:
2998963 ? radiator on Regina.jpg



2. driver side of the one I bought (top view), the stamping location is the same though the numbers are different):
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3. passenger side (note where the "use Chrysler antifreeze" instruction is located relative to the 2998 964 stamping -- both differ from the original):
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I will now be turning to sourcing a fan shroud. Regina does not have A/C and came out of the factory without a shroud, even though P/N 2998 330 was optional equipment. I plan to add a shroud for improved cooling.

--> if anyone has the correct 2998330 for sale, I am interested. I know that @mdh157 bought one back in 2013, but I have not seen any for sale recently.

--> if none is available, then I will go with a reproduction that Van's sells for B-bodies, which is very close but not the exact same for C-bodies. @MAGNUM77 has provided me with photos showing his original shroud to guide the setup, and @c-barge has shared that a famous fuselage Fury has that B-body shroud.
 
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ayilar

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Radio and speakers. The time to refurb the R22 AM/8-track radio and the dash speakers is when Wyatt replaces the pad. Regina does not have the R31 optional rear speaker, so that is not an issue. For both the radio refurb and the three new dash speakers, I plan to follow advice received in this thread and go with S/M Electro Tech:

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meanwhile, I thought that I should illustrate, for the record, the difference between 3- and 4-speaker controls with the R22 option on the 1970 Polara:

1. Polara AM/8-track R22 radio & R31 rear speaker:
1970 Polara AM:8-track R22 radio & R31 rear speaker.jpg



2. AM/8-track R22 radio, no rear speaker (Regina), note the missing "R Speaker" thumbwheel to the left of the radio (it would have been between the two screws holding the "wood" panel):
AM:8-track R22 radio, no rear speaker (Regina).png
 
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ayilar

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Back in March of last year, @71Polara383 replaced Regina's booster and master cylinder with those from DH23L0D301864 (a 1970 Monaco that he and I parted the year before). That poor Monaco left the factory equipped with disc brakes, but a previous owner at some point installed incorrect-for-that-car-but-fine-for-Regina replacement drum brake booster and master cylinder -- so we repurposed them for the time being.

Of course, the plan had always been to restore the originals.

Master: In a separate thread that I started last year on 1969 to 1971 P/D/C master cylinders, though, posts by @Davea Lux @CBODY67 @PH27L7 @1970cat @Furyman together have led me to believe that the leaky master on Regina when I bought her (in early fall 2020) was likely an aftermarket unit (even though it had surface pitting like an original). I have therefore followed the advice of @Davea Lux to replace the MC rather than rebuild it; since @traintech55 likes the bail wire type better than the typical single-screw replacement unit, I looked far and wide to find one. Turns out that the Raybestos MC36221 sold on Amazon through Raybestos' factory store has the correct look, so I ordered it. Here is the photo from the Amazon listing:

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Booster: Regina's booster seems to be original, and so it will go this weekend to the Power Brake Booster Exchange in Lynnwood, WA. To paraphrase @Trace 300 Hurst I have, like him, found in prior dealings with the company that Booster Dewey, Booster Steve, and their staff are competent, do quality work, and underpromise/overdeliver. What's not to like? I am asking them to replate the booster using "gold zinc" as that is the finish I see on all the original 1970 Polaras that I have found with B51 power drum brakes on FCBO.
 
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ayilar

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The Raybestos MC36221 booster that I bought was made in China, and looks like the generic replacement booster that we have seen on many cars -- here is a photo from the Summit site. I guess I can't win every time...

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ayilar

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Today, @71Polara383 sent Regina's alternator out for rebuilding. He found a Midwest rebuilder he likes (Forest City Auto Electric in Rockford, IL).

Hopefully, after we get it back, the difficulty in raising/lowering the top that started after I returned from the Midwest C-Body show last year will be a memory from the past.

Meanwhile, here is a photo of the alternator -- P/N 3428201 and date stamps are consistent with the build date :)

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When the alternator comes back, we will also be replacing the voltage regulator as a precaution.

In other restoration news, I have ordered replacement speakers from S&M Electro-Tech -- more info is in this thread:

 
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FK3 Sport Fury

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I'm not sure if it's different now but I bought a dash speaker from S&M for a Dart several years ago and although it fit fine, it sounded awful so I ended up going a different route. I wasn't expecting high end sound but I swear it was worse than an OEM speaker from back in the day.
 

saforwardlook

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The Raybestos MC36221 booster that I bought was made in China, and looks like the generic replacement booster that we have seen on many cars -- here is a photo from the Summit site. I guess I can't win every time...

View attachment 523407

The replacement you received is a master cylinder used on drum brake cars only and should not be used on a vehicle with disc brakes because the volume of brake fluid that master cylinder holds is insufficient for a disc brake car.

Here is a view of a correct one that I would buy from Rock Auto:

1648777612836.png


More Information for CENTRIC 13063055

I have learned to trust the Centric brand for quality, correctly listed parts.

I really do not trust Raybestos listings anymore from my experience in terms of what I actually receive vs. what I expect.
 
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ayilar

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The replacement you received is a master cylinder used on drum brake cars only and should not be used on a vehicle with disc brakes because the volume of brake fluid that master cylinder holds is insufficient for a disc brake car (...) I really do not trust Raybestos listings anymore from my experience in terms of what I actually receive vs. what I expect.

Thank you -- but Regina has the B51 power drum brakes, not the B41 power disc brakes. So it is a drum brake that I needed, and that is what I ordered.

I have been happy with the Raybestos brake pads and the disc brake MC that I bought three years ago. But my experience is a single data point, what has yours been?
 
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