Meet Regina FQ3, a 1970 Polara convertible who turns 51 today

Thank you -- but Regina has the B51 power drum brakes, not the B41 power disc brakes. So it is a drum brake that I needed, and that is what I ordered.

I have been happy with the Raybestos brake pads and the disc brake MC that I bought three years ago. But my experience is a single data point, what has yours been?

OK, thanks. I am more familiar with the 1971 models and I believe disc brakes were standard on that year at least but I might be wrong. My experience with Raybestos was they listed a rotor available for one of the disc brake models and when it was received it was made by Centric, not a Raybestos 2 piece assembly as original. But I was actually happier with the one piece part anyway.

What threw me off is that I do not recall ever seeing a drum brake master cylinder on an original Chrysler product with a bail on it - only a bail on disc brake ones. The drum brake cars did have a top on it like you show but it was held down with a kind of V shaped bracket with a bolt, not a bail - but then I have only had a couple drum brake cars.
 
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OK, thanks. (...) What threw me off is that I do not recall ever seeing a drum brake master cylinder on an original Chrysler product with a bail on it - only a bail on disc brake ones. The drum brake cars did have a top on it like you show but it was held down with a kind of V shaped bracket with a bolt, not a bail - but then I have only had a couple drum brake cars.

Thank you, the matter of what the original MC for power drum brake cars looks like has been bugging me for a while and indeed I started a thread, that got a number of contributions, here:


The conclusion I have formed is that, for drum cars, bail-wire master cylinders may be aftermarket pieces from a long time ago.
 
Thank you -- but Regina has the B51 power drum brakes, not the B41 power disc brakes. So it is a drum brake that I needed, and that is what I ordered.

I have been happy with the Raybestos brake pads and the disc brake MC that I bought three years ago. But my experience is a single data point, what has yours been?

Probably also a single data point.
 
I few years ago I bought and returned a few master cylinders (drum brake) until I finally found a match to the original with the V shape hold down. The pictures were always the correct one, but what showed up was what you pictured above.
 
The Raybestos MC36221 booster that I bought was made in China, and looks like the generic replacement booster that we have seen on many cars -- here is a photo from the Summit site. I guess I can't win every time...

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I had one of those on my Barracuda and it drove me nuts every time I opened the hood. I had an issue that seemed like it was the MC (turned out to be a wheel cylinder) and I bought a repop like this one off eBay. 1960's Mopar Bendix Master Cylinder DRUM Brakes 1" Bore Dodge Plymouth Chrysler | eBay

Yep, made in China etc., but it's been on the car a few years now with no problem.

Every once in a while, there will be a new "correct" cover that will pop up on eBay, usually not much less than the cost of a new MC. If it bothers you too much, you could buy aa repop, swap lids and toss the new one on the shelf for use another time.
 
One thing that Regina needed is work on her alternator. That is now done.

I'd posted here a photo before restoration showing the part of the casting with the original part # (3438201) and the stamp of the 1969 build date. Here is another taken by @71Polara383 after the work done by Forrest City Auto Electric.

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Thanks to @marty mopar today I found a better solution that rodding out the original radiator: an NOS 2998964 22" radiator for 383-powered 1970 C-bodies without A/C. It was for sale in Iowa and it is the correct P/N so, at $255 shipped, I quickly went for it. @Rustyrodknocker was also interested but kindly let me have it as he does not have an immediate need for it. Thank you both!
Well, @71Polara383 has installed the radiator just in time for summer! Here are some photos that he sent to me, with a report of success:

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He let the car idle for a good half hour and this is the highest it went:
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Wyatt increased the RPMs to about 2,000, and the temp needle came down right away:
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Subject to more road-testing by yours truly this summer, the radiator seems good!

PS: The electric radiator installed under prior ownership has been removed, but I am keeping it in case it might help in stop-and-go driving amid hot/humid weather. We shall see.
 
The original booster has been refurbished by the Booster Exchange (PS: the cost was $293). Here are two photos sent by @71Polara383 after it arrived today:

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@71Polara383 has blasted Regina's control arms, strut rods, centerlink, tie rod adjustment sleeves, and sway bar hardware. Here is a photo he shared along the way:

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We have replaced the control arm bushings (4 Moog K7006 from Rock Auto for the upper CA; 2 Moog K7007 sourced through Pep Boys, of all places, for the lower CA -- the 7s are very hard to find, thanks go to Wyatt for pointing me in the right direction), the bump stops for the lower (Moog K7293) and upper control arm (Dorman 31052 *), and the upper (two Moog K772) and lower ball joints (initially I had planned on installing 1 Precision Suspension Technology BJ10220 passenger and 1 PST BJ10221 driver -- but Moog K7003 / K7005 from @mobileparts came in just in time and so that is what went on the car; Snow White, Regina's N-code sister, will get the PST parts).

Today or tomorrow, Wyatt will install new tie rod ends (Moog ES352R outer and ES355RL inner), idler arm (Moog K7014), and pitman arm (PST PIT18757 **). New KYB KG4507 front shocks have already been installed, the rears KYB KG5512 will be going on in the next few days after the front end is done. (Note: the torsion bar boots could not be replaced, due to lack-of-space to remove the bar).

*: FWIW, the only replacement UCA bumpers I could find were the Dorman. The good news is that they are an exact replica (see photo below -- the perspective gives the impression that they are different, but they are not). One remaining question mark for me is whether they'll last for the rest of the car's life -- I don't know, as this is the first time I have bought a Dorman product. In any event, the upper bump stops should only be of use in extreme cases, and I don't plan on taking the car airborne...

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**: PST offers a discount to FCBO members, but only on orders above $200. I placed my $350+ total in two separate orders, however, and was told after I requested the discount that they did not qualify :wideyed:
Great info in your thread!
One concern is that when I look up Dorman 31052 it is a lower control arm bumper.
Dorman Products - 31052
I think Moog K7293 is upper and Dorman 31052 is lower.
 
Ahead of Volo, @71Polara383 completed some of the interior stuff that was needed for comfort and safety:

1. install an interior rear view mirror, as Regina had none (the one that was included with the car was not for a 'vert -- they have special mirrors). In 2.5 years since I acquired Regina, I have been unable to find an NOS mirror, even though they are common to P/D/C C-body ragtops. Luckily, I acquired a used one in working condition with day/night settings from @C Body Bob);

2. install convertible sunvisors: the originals were not in good condition, and the articulated brackets were not OK either. Luckily, I found NOS sun visors and arm brackets at Arizona Parts and acquired them from @marty mopar):

1111EX9 BLACK SUNVISOR,PU CONVERT 1969-70 P,D,C CONV 1 58.00
2901030 R CONV TOP VISOR ARM BRKT,PU 1969-70 P,D,C CONV 1 45.00
2901031 L CONV TOP VISOR ARM BRKT,PU 1969-70 P,D,C CONV 1 45.00
2945890 R SUNVISOR ARM,PU CONV 1969-70 P,D,C CONV 1 36.00

3. replace the steering wheel: the Code S-83 (non-tilt) rimblow steering wheel that was on Regina at acquisition was cracked in multiple places, with the results that the horn did not work and that the steering wheel could not properly/easily return to center. That issue has now been fixed: the replacement steering wheel is not a rim blow one (as came originally on the car); instead, I got a code S-79 wheel with partial horn ring that previously was Wyatt's 1970 FQ3 Polara wagon's (the wagon is getting a woodgrain rim in the exchange).

Here is a quick photo (the cracked dash pad will be replaced this summer)

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And another cosmetic improvement before Volo: using the holes already drilled for the incorrect RHS mirror that was in the car when I bought it, @71Polara383 replaced it today by a 1970 companion-for-remote NOS unit (P/N 2999004 or 299 9004) that I acquired from @QuickBpBp -- thanks to him for a superb unit.

Note: as described in @QuickBpBp's listing, NOS mounting nuts were included in the sale but a gasket was not; luckily, @71Polara383 had one in his used parts stash :thumbsup:

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I removed the old aftermarket mirror on Regina. Unfortunately it was screwed to the door and I had to work within that area to keep the holes from the incorrect mirror covered. I used a mirror gasket as a guide for where I needed to drill new holes.

The placement is not 100% perfect but it looks far better with matching mirrors, with no holes exposed.

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Moving inside. I adjusted the shifter as it was a wobbly sloppy mess. All of the bushings were intact, just seemed like the mechanism was worn out and loose. I used a set of vise grips to squeeze the base a bit tighter together. Re adjusted the shift knob and it seemed to firm up.

I also replaced the rear view mirror that was missing, and passenger side sun visor as it seemed to flop around and not fold up flat.

After that I changed the busted up Rimblow wheel with a very nice original removed from my 70 wagon.

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I then figured I could knock out the Waldron duals as another upgrade before the show. My thinking was every other Waldron install has been a breeze. Why would this be any different. I opened the box. Checked the pipes and it seemed we were in business. Chopped the old stuff off and started to fit the new head pipes. Passenger side fit like a glove...the drivers side however did not. I couldn't get the flange flat, it appeared it was for HP manifolds.

Crap...

I proceeded to get the passenger side installed all the way out the back. Called it a night and discussed a plan with @ayilar the following morning. After deciding we should be able to get her to the muffler shop and have the flange repaired. I installed the drivers side from the back forward...Used a muffler clamp to secure the head pipe to the Torsion bar to keep it from moving around too much. This allowed to me to do a rough install and position everything to my liking before turning it over to the guys at the muffler shop.

Unfortunately they didn't finish until Saturday morning when we were about to head to the show. Being down drivers...we had to leave her behind.

I picked her up Monday morning and she sounds excellent.


Next round of repairs will include dashpad replacement as well as booster and master replacement. I have some new KYBs and a new trans mount to install as well.

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To be clear, Waldron is not to blame. I am, because, when I ordered dual exhausts for Regina, I did not think and I placed the exact same exact order as I’d placed a year earlier for Snow White. BUT, Snow is an N-code (dual exhaust originally), Regina is an L-code (OEM single, though she sported an aftermarket dual setup when I bought her) — and the RHS exhaust manifold is different.
 
Moving forward with Regina.

It was time to do the last big job on her, swap the dash pads out. I am not a fan of struggling with working inside the car, so I lowered the column, disconnected the bulkhead and pulled the whole dash assembly as one unit.

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With the dash out, I then completely disassembled it down to a bare frame. I also had to pull the 3 speaker stuff off the old pad as well as remove the VIN.

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After that, I un-boxed the replacement pad @ayilar scored for this project. However...I had to do the unthinkable...

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Regina is a 3 speaker Dash. Our replacement pad is not. I took my time and carefully cut out the speaker openings.

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I then removed moldings from a core pad and used them in place of the moldings our replacement pad came with. This made it look more original to me compared to the new trim it had installed
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I then installed the speakers onto the new pad, then put the pad onto the frame...
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While the dash is out I took advantage of swapping the booster easily...

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I also changed out the firewall insulation with new stuff from DMT. I wasn't able to replace the piece trapped behind the heater box, it looked to be in nice shape, and could open a whole unnecessary can of worms. So I avoided that one and changed the rest.

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Back to the dash, I started reassembling what I could. I layed in the harness and started to tidy it up some. I also adapted the original pigtails to the new speakers.
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A few of the original plastics were broken, but luckily in my stash, I had a set that needed to be dyed black. I cleaned them up, and hit them with a couple coats of SEM.

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I also noticed the high beam dimmer switch plug had gotten a little warm once before. I pushed the wires out and replaced the plug with one from my stash.


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I figured now would be a good time to remove the grille to change out the headlights with all new Wagners...

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I am awaiting a new circuit board, VIN rivets, cluster bulbs, and a new dimmer switch. Once I have that stuff I can finish assembling the dashboard.

Stay tuned for more updates.
 
A few of the original plastics were broken, but luckily in my stash, I had a set that needed to be dyed black. I cleaned them up, and hit them with a couple coats of SEM.

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I also noticed the high beam dimmer switch plug had gotten a little warm once before. I pushed the wires out and replaced the plug with one from my stash.


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I figured now would be a good time to remove the grille to change out the headlights with all new Wagners...

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I am awaiting a new circuit board, VIN rivets, cluster bulbs, and a new dimmer switch. Once I have that stuff I can finish assembling the dashboard.

Stay tuned for more updates.

After reading your posts this AM, (as @commando1 once said): I had to go take a couple of Advil. . . More excellent work. Mighty fine!
 
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