Mobile One Synthetic or Something Else?

I remember when the white lithium grease was the suggested assembly lube for bearings, but it doesn't have "the guts" for cam lobes, to me. It was either the old GM EOS (pint) that was poured over the lifter valley and cam when the valve train was in place and the intake manifold installed. 2 cans of STP was a substitute. Most came manufacturers had their moly assembly paste, too. Seems that there was also a recommendation for an oil/filter change after the initial cam run-in? As the lithium paste could clog the oil filter?

Like other automotive chemicals, what was available was what was used, typically. Most auto supplies and STP Oil Treatment, back then. Just as brake fluid was used in convertible top hydraulics, back then, as it was available "everywhere".

Most machine shops put a coating of assembly lube on the bearings when they put everything together, in recent time. Cam bearings, too. Then the moly paste on the cam lobes. Lifters are dunked/soaked in engine oil prior to installation. Basic orientation is that everything that moves needs oil on it, of some type.

IF the engine will be fired reasonably soon, then pre-lubes are not that critical, but if it's going to sit for a while, then the type and amount of pre-lube can be important. Just as the oil pumping oil to pre-lube prior to start-up is a very good way to do things. Better to have too much than not enough.

The basic run-in at mid-range rpm (2500 or so) is to get oil slinging off of the main and rod bearings slung into the camshaft area, from the bottom upward, as that's the ONLY oil supply for the cam lobes. Varying the rpm a bit allegedly puts oil into different areas, for best results, after the first minutes of stable running.

The "green block" break-in has to do with getting the block cured as it runs, which can cause some machining to "move" a bit, so one reason for no racing for the first 500 miles or so recommendation. Consider, too, that by the time a new vehicle gets to the dealer, the engine has already had its 30 minute initial run-in at the engine assembly plant, then a bit more as the car is transported to the dealer and such.

Starting with a "cured" block (i.e., a block that's been in a vehicle for many thousands of miles and such), there is no further curing so the machining stays put. That means that any run-in time should be shorter, but you've still got to get the rings/cylinder wall interface are comfortable with each other. Varying the engine/cruise speeds and loading can accomplish that. As the engine runs and drives, you can tell when that process is completed and stabilizes in performance and throttle response.

Before we got syn oil, there were lower viscosity oils for various prevailing temperatures. Lighter oils for colder weather and thicker oils for hotter weather. With modern blend stocks and quality thereof, thinner oils can be used for increased fuel economy and fewer exhaust emissions, plus less power absorbed by the engine oil pump. Bearing clearances are related to journal size, generally. Ring end gaps need to be widened for the more power-adders used. Skirt clearance needs to be a bit more for really HP/truck applications. So these relationships were made long before syn oils were popular or known about. This is where you tell the engine machinist what you're going to do and they do their thing.

If you look at cylinder wall hone marks under a microscope, you'll see jagged peaks and valleys at each "mark". The break-in process is like a "controlled wear" situation until these peaks are smoothed off a bit, then the wear stops and comes back into the normal range of things. Which is then where the oil base stock comes into play to decrease further wear.

So, have fun putting it all together!

CBODY67
 
99% of all flat tappet failures can usually be traced back to a lifter not turning in its bore.

After you assemble the valve train, turn the engine over. All 16 lifters should rotate like they are gear driven. If any are slow or sporadic/don't turn at all, try swapping holes. If it doesn't spin in a different hole, replace it. If the one that spun OK from the different hole doesn't spin in it's new home, you need to check that bore for proper clearance or other problems.

Under no circumstances fire the engine until they all spin. Instant cam failure will result.

Kevin

Top Reasons and Causes for Camshaft Failure: Tech Tip courtesy of Crane Cams

Use only the moly paste that is included with the cam from the manufacturer. This moly paste must be applied to every cam lobe surface, and to the bottom of every lifter face of all flat tappet cams. Also, apply the moly paste to the distributor gears on the cam and distributor for all camshafts.

Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. It is not recommended to use any type of oil restrictors to the lifter galley, or use windage trays, baffles,or plug any oil return holes in the valley. Oil has a two-fold purpose, not only to lubricate, but also to draw the heat away from whatever it comes in contact with. The cam needs oil splash from the crankcase and oil run-back from the top of the engine to help draw the heat away. Without this oil flow, all the heat generated at the cam is transferred to the lifter, which can contribute to its early demise.

During this break-in time, verify that the pushrods are rotating, as this will show that the lifters are also rotating. If the lifters don’t rotate, the cam lobe and lifter will fail. Sometimes you may need to help spin the pushrod to start the rotation process during this break-in procedure. Make sure the pushrod length is correct to your engine if changes have been made by decking the block, heads, using aftermarket heads, changes in the cam's base circle, changes in valve installed height, or changing to other than stock rocker arms. Binding can occur if the proper lifter pre-load (hydraulic lifters) is not achieved and can cause the lifter not to rotate.

Lifter rotation is created by a taper ground on the cam lobe and the convex shape of the face of the flat tappet lifter. Also in some cases, the lobe is slightly offset from the center of the lifter bore in the block. If the linear spacing of the lifter bores in the block is not to the correct factory specifications, or the angle of the lifter bore is not 90 degrees to the centerline of the cam, the lifter may not rotate. Watch the pushrods during break in to verify lifter rotation. It may be difficult to see pushrod spin in some cases. Use a marker or white paint pen to place a mark on the pushrod for better visibility.

Spring pressure. Normal recommended spring seat pressure for most mild street-type flat tappet cams is between 85 to 105 lbs. More radical street and race applications may use valve spring seat pressure between 105 to 130 lbs. Race cams with high lift and spring pressure are not recommended for street use, because of a lack of oil splash onto the cam at low speed running to help cool the cam and lubricate the lifters. These high spring pressure causes the heat created at the cam to be transferred to the lifter base.

Never install springs without verifying the correct assembled height and pressures. Increased spring pressure from a spring change and/or increased valve lift can hinder lifter rotation during cam break-in. Decreasing spring pressure during the break-in period will be a great help. This can be accomplished by using a shorter ratio rocker arm to lower the valve lift; and/ or removing the inner spring, during the cam break-in time, if dual springs are being used.

Spring coil bind: This is when all of the coils of the spring (outside, inside or flat damper) contact each other before the full lift of the valve. It is recommended that the spring you are using be capable of traveling at least .060″ more than the valve lift of the cam from its assembled height. You can use a feeler gauge to check this clearance.

Retainer to seal/ valve guide boss interference. You need at least .060″ clearance between the bottom of the valve retainer and the top of the valve guide or valve guide seal when the valve is at full lift.

Valve to piston interference: this occurs when a change in cam specs. (i.e., lift, duration or centerline) is enough to cause this mechanical interference. Also: increased valve size, surfacing the block and/or cylinder head may cause this problem. If you have any doubt, piston to valve clearance should be checked. Minimum recommended clearance: .080″ intake and .100″ exhaust.

Rocker arm slot-to-stud interference: As you increase valve lift, the rocker arm swings farther on its axis. Therefore the slot in the bottom of the rocker arm may run out of travel, and the end of the slot will contact the stud and stop the movement of the rocker arm causing binding and adding load pressures on the lifter & cam faces. The slot in the rocker arm must be able to travel at least .060″ more than the full lift of the valve. Aftermarket manufactures generally offer stamped steel rocker arms available in long and extra long slot versions for this purpose.

Distributor gear wear. The main cause for distributor gear wear is the use of high volume or high-pressure oil pumps. We don’t recommend the use of these types of oil pumps. If you do run these types of oil pumps, you can expect short life of the cam and distributor gears, especially for low speed running, in street type applications. If you must run these types of oil pumps, you can increase the life of the gears by adding more oil flow over the gear area to help cool off the point of contact.

Distributors that have end play adjustment (up and down movement of distributor shaft and gear) should maintain a maximum of .010″ end play to help prevent premature wear.

Camshaft end play. Some engines have a thrust plate to control the forward and backward movement of the cam. The recommended end play on these types of engines is between .003″ to .008″. Many factors may cause this end play to be changed. When installing a new cam, timing gears, or thrust plates, be sure to verify end play after the cam bolts are torqued to factory specs. If the end play is excessive, it will cause the cam to move back in the block, causing the side of the lobe to contact an adjacent lifter.
 
Well after all the help last nite I found the Lucas Assembly lube at a local parts store this morning. I can't thank you folks enough for all your opinions and help. Here's a few pics of today's progress. The first two are before and after…….
We managed to get the crank, cam, pistons/rods, lifters and timing chain setup in and the heads torqued on. Note that Comp Cams 3 bolt cam and timing chain setup didn't come with bolts so they won't arrive until Tuesday, The two bolts you see in the pics are "loaners".
I'm also ordering new pushrods tonite since I don't like the looks of the stock ones after cleanup.
All in all not a bad day!

old 440.JPG


New 440.JPG


pistons.JPG


mar319.JPG
 
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