MrMopar's 1969 California Highway Patrol restoration

1-3644-Unknown Status
2-3645-Under Restoration
3-4685-Carsten (Driver)
4-4690-Needing Restoration (not driveable)
5-4808-Driver
6-4870-RON's
7-4948-ALAN
8-5081-Driver (recently painted all black)
9-Driver
10-Needing Restoration (not driveable, same owner as 4)
11-Unknown Status
12-Unknown Status

13-4551-Assumed scrapped, I have a hood from this unit
14-4889-Scrapped

I have more details on some of these but try to limit what I share with the world

Alan


5081 would be mine...

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5081 would be mine...

Yes, I know your car and saw it prior to your purchase and again just after it was painted. I’m also the one who made the facsimile of the broadcast sheet (I hope it was given to you), It was a scan of mine doctored to have your car information.
 
Well not much to say, I put the engine on the stand and stripped it down. It will be interesting to see what the machinist has to say, the only thing I saw was that it had a new timing chain. The car has 165,000 on it and doesn’t appear otherwise to have been touched. The car did sit in a field for 30 years and the engine was seized when I first started on it a few months ago.

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Lovin this thread!! Its better than watching for fuseys in the background of an episode of Kojak!.......joking asside...totally inspirational!
 
Even though I haven’t done much I felt I should post an update.

My body guy has signed off on the car for now (he wants it back in the booth when it’s done to fix a couple spots). The hood was polished along with the fender/quarter extensions.

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The hood will wait till the engine is in.

With the engine apart I cleaned it the best I could before taking the block to the shop tomorrow. I have the block heads crank and all the rods loaded up and ready to go.

Then it’ll be about getting the car back together. Nothing has been cleaned up yet and will need to be done as it is needed. Heck even though I have already done one car I feel a little at loss on where to start.

Alan
 
I have been rolling around the decision on what plates to run on the car when it is done.

This is the plate (correct number) that was issued to the car when it was first put into service. I had a reproduction plate made for shows but I cannot have them on the car while driving on the road (aside for parades and special events)
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This is the plate that I currently have assigned to my other Polara (that was originally purchased to make a clone). This is a custom/vanity plate and translated to Vehicle Code Section 27605 which prohibits having a car painted to look like a police car (there are exceptions). I could have these transferred and possibly have them made in black.
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A 69 most likely would have been sold in auction in 1970 and at that time the plates were blue so having a black plate is period correct it is a police car and the plate not a proper police plate, so is there a point to having a black plate?

Speaking of the replacement plate, this is the plate that was issued to the car in 1970 after being sold at auction. It is the plate that I have currently registered on the car. Again not correct in many ways.
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Another option is to select an all new custom/vanity plate, I have seen this done so I know I can. This plate would simulate the original state exempt plate, it could also be made in black.
E8O8434.png


Other plate ideas I had were DQE 8OOO, this is the paint code for the “Custom” CHP white, I’m not sure how many people even in the CHP collector world would get this, I like cryptic plates that a select group will just see and get and others may figure out. The other idea is DK41L9D (VIN series). These could be had in white or black.

The last option would be to find a set of original 69 black plates and have them assigned to the car under the YOM program. Again period correct but not what the car would have.

Bottom line none of the plates would be correct for the way the car while it is on the road for the way it is restored. I’m generally a fan of YOM but that isn’t really an option here. So I’m trying to decide which plates would look best while I’m on the road.

1. Do nothing, keep the assigned blue plates (468 BKJ)
2. Transfer 276O5 VC, leave white
3. Transfer 276O5 VC have done in black
4. Get YOM plates (ZZZ 999 series in black)
5. Get new custom plates (E 8O8434) in white
6. Get new custom plates (E 8O8434) in black
7. Other custom plate?
 
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Black YOM plates would look best and be the least optical deviation from the original look while the car was in service IMHO. I keep on creating such little problems myself. :)
 
Yes, no. 6 sounds good as well. This would also be a yellow on black custom plate then ?
 
Black YOM plates would look best and be the least optical deviation from the original look while the car was in service IMHO. I keep on creating such little problems myself.

I am a fan of YOM plates but on this car they might just look out of place. They are "original" plates and this car wold not have had those plates. Lets not even get into what a pair of proper sequence plates would cost.

Yes, no. 6 sounds good as well. This would also be a yellow on black custom plate then ?

I am leaning towards the custom plates as well, just witch one. The State of California just setup a Legacy License Plate Program where they will make NEW plates that "resemble" the original 50's (gold w/black) 60's (black w/gold) and the 70's (blue w/gold). They will be available in the current sequence (not those that were in place on those vintage plates) or custom. It is unknown weather or not they will be reflectorized and some other design/construction details. We still have a year before they are officially released and until I see one I will not put a preorder it. Not to say I couldn't get a custom plate in the standard white and have it converted at a later date.

Alan
 
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With the recent talks about exhaust I thought I'd look at mine in more detail.

I have no reason the believe that this is anything but original.
The system was specified by CHP to be fully welded.

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The tail pipes are two piece, I'm guessing that they may have chose to use the standard piece for the tips.
The larger section measures 2-1/4 OD and the smaller 2" OD, I'd have to cut the pipe to get a true inside diameter.
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The head pipe is choked down right at the muffler, that is not a welded joint. Head pipe is 2-1/4 up to this point although it is hard to tell as little of the pipe is round (from the factory), midpoint there is a foot long part that is flat on the bottom and the size varies in and around every bend.
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Is it possible while your car was in service, it needed an exhaust ststem and that's how the boys in the farage did it and not the factory?
Were there any written specifications on the exhaust system as to be delivered?
I'm amazed the original exhaust made it through the entire service life of the vehicle.
Back then, ww were doing exhaust sysrems at 50k miles.

Posted via Topify on Android
 
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Is it possible while your car was in service, it needed an exhaust ststem and that's how the boys in the farage did it and not the factory?
Were there any written specifications on the exhaust system as to be delivered?
I'm amazed the original exhaust made it through the entire service life of the vehicle.
Back then, ww were doing exhaust sysrems at 50k miles.

Posted via Topify on Android

I have my doubts, the date code on these is 4-69 which is good for a 5-69 build date.
The car left service with about 75k, unless it was a problem I bet they left them on. Previous owner did not do it.
The funny part is I looked through the spec and the exhaust is not mentioned, everything else is.

Looking at this installation I do no see how one could remove a muffler and fit this one in unless it was bigger than the original, or they had a pipe stretcher.

The pipe is consistent with other CHP cars, even the splice in the tail pipe and one piece headpipe with a welded flange, mine is the only one we have seen with what looks to be original mufflers.

This car had 165k when parked. My 1970 Dodge D200 has its original mufflers with 80k, my other Polara had a new muffler installed shortly after I got it, shop said it looked to be original, replaced as fitting rusted through, car had 60k on it.


Alan
 
My Challenger still has original pipes from manifolds to mufflers. It is amazing how stuff just doesn't rot out west.
 
1. Do nothing, keep the assigned blue plates (468 BKJ)
2. Transfer 276O5 VC, leave white
3. Transfer 276O5 VC have done in black
4. Get YOM plates (ZZZ 999 series in black)
5. Get new custom plates (E 8O8434) in white
6. Get new custom plates (E 8O8434) in black
7. Other custom plate?

I like option 1. It is it's earliest restorable state (at least as far as the plates go). It's legitimately the plates the car had as early as it could have been purchased after service. It's not trying to be something it isn't.

My car came with YOM black plates, and I declined to transfer. Since it's not originally a black plate car (it came from Minnesota), it didn't survive as one. Your blue plates are only correct once. Leave them there.
 
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