In the basic socket/wrench set, add: a u-joint and a short, medium, and long extension (some of which can replace the noted distributor wrench, if desired). the u-joint can be used either at the socket or between extensions to get to "that" angle of things.
Timing light: Upgrade to the one with the dial on it rather than just the basic model. This little feature allows you to "dial back" the flash to the TDC mark on the balancer, so you can check the actual amount of mechanical and vacuum advance in the distributor. A small additional cost for the added diagnosis functionality you will get.
Feeler gauge: Can be useful if you have mechanical lifters, to do the valve adjustments. Otherwise, for ignition point gaps. Shade tree "emergency" setting for point gap used to be a "matchbook cover", which would get you close enough for the engine to run decently well. For spark plugs, a wire gap gauge that might go down to about .018" and up to about .060". Bent-wire might be better than a u-shaped wire as you can better "feel" the resistance as the wire passes through the gap. When using a feeler gauge, make sure the gauge is flat and perpendicular to the gap being measured. Noting the "pull feel" as the gauge passes through the gap being measured.
You can't have Jack Stands without a Jack to raise the car: Watch the sales at Harbor Freight or similar for their "low profile, high lift" aluminum "NASCAR"-style jacks. Light weight to move around AND will go as low as 3.5" to get under a car with a flat tire or similar. Usually in the $100.00 range on sale? Other "normal" jacks can only go down to about 5", which is pretty close to "ride height" on many older Chrysler products. For general use, a ligher-duty service station jack can be good, but heavy and bulky. Jack stands need to be sturdy, reasonably light, and easy to use. 2 or 4, as desired.
"Roller Skates": Compliment the jack stands, so you can move the car on a hard surface in storage for more garage space. Get the ones with the smooth, round tire contact area. Not required, but for a car with flat-prone old tires, you can still move the car around a bit as needed. Maybe a "Santa Claus item"?
Wiring connector crimping tool, diagonal cutters, and factory-style wiring connectors. Plus a large and small pair of needle-nose pliers. Metal 6" ruler. Digital calipers for exact diameter measurements.
For the work bench: A decent-size vice can come in handy. As can an assortment of penetrating oils, spray lubes, a tube of synthetic chassis grease, spray brake cleaner, etc. Maybe even a few cans of spray paint in "engine color", satin black, etc. A battery terminal/cable wire brush cleaner.
Lots of other little things that can be added later or when needed.
Adequate lighting of the work space, a small fridge for drinks/snacks, and that requisite "old couch" to relax on. Can't forget the Drip Pans! IF you don't have a creeper, then a large sturdy piece of flat cardboard will work to slide around on.
For good measure, and doesn't cost much, start doing some flexibility and strength exercises. So you don't strain a muscle getting into some unusual position as you try to get something done on the car. Flexibility and hand strength can be important, too.
In relation to PATIENCE, you've got to learn "when to step back" and let things sit for a while. IF your repair strategy doesn't seem to be working, STOP to reassess it before you might break something, whether a part on the car or YOU. Sometimes, more force might be needed. Other times, a different way of approaching it might be needed. Learn by doing, successfully, with good mentors, where possible. KNOW your limits, but you can also seek to expand them, if desired, over time.
Enjoy!
CBODY67