New Member with engine questions

RB61

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I have a 1961 Chrysler with a worn out 361. I have found what appears to be a newer (68) 383 in great shape.
Block 2468130 8
Heads 284390

Will this work? swap crankshaft from 361 to 383 to accommodate cast iron trans. .

If this will work, what can I do to enhance the performance of the 9:1 CR 383 without changing pistons?
*what will newer technology intake/carb/cam & dual exhaust give me for additional HP?
*does milling the heads to increase CR make sense?
*any suggestions???

I am an old guy with just enough old knowledge to get me in trouble.

Thanks

DRIVER1fwdlk.jpg
 
If it was mine I would consider getting a price from a local machine shop on rebuilding the engine you have. I tried a similar swap and it was a disaster. All kinds of trouble with transmission mating.
 
Welcome to the site from the Motor City! Nice looking car.
 
All B series blocks had same stroke so other than some slight balance issues because of different bore size I don't see why it won't work. If you want to know true compression ratio you have to measure but 9:1 is a good ratio a little higher and you are solidly in pump premium territory 9.5:1 and above starts to get into octane boost retard timing P.I.T.A. IMO I would leave it where its at if you measure (cc's in combustion chamber and piston down in the bore) and it comes out just to low for you to live with milling the heads some is okay, don't forget intake face, but sometimes its impracticle to raise it much and cheaper/better to just buy the pistons. The later heads flow better already, best stock cast iron intakes for a low deck/b series is later 400 4bbl just block the egr valve ports personally I would use a thermo quad on this intake HUGE improvement over your original stuff. Cams I like mopar performance this is just my preference look in catalog choose your rpm range buy that cam or the one smaller done. Beautiful car BTW.
 
:sSig_greetingsthor: ............ :welcome:
Beautiful car. Old guys are welcome here ..... trust me, your not alone. Questions are welcome too but you must post more photos of your car as payment.

As for the engine ....... If your going to go through the rebuild process you might as well build the original engine. There are some problems with changing an older cast iron trans engine with a later engine. And besides .... Old Mopars with their original engines are always cool. (And retain value better).

You can upgrade your original engine with a "purple" grind MP cam. It's along the lines of a 440 HP cam. Not to radical but a marked improvement. An original or aftermarket 4bbl intake and Edlebrock carb and an electronic dist, as well as dual exhaust will spark things up nicely. Don't mill the heads, and 9:1 compression will be easy to live with on todays low quality gas.

Keep up informed of you progress.
 
BlueFury361 scored ah bullz eye when ha said their were issues with ah '65 on up RB block and The cast iron torq flite. It'll probably bolt up to the 383 but the snout on the '61 torq converter will not bolt to the later forged crank. And most folkz don't even want to know why so I'll let it go too. Suffice to say your best and easiest and no hassle rebuild iz the 361, Jer
 
BlueFury361 scored ah bullz eye when ha said their were issues with ah '65 on up RB block and The cast iron torq flite. It'll probably bolt up to the 383 but the snout on the '61 torq converter will not bolt to the later forged crank. And most folkz don't even want to know why so I'll let it go too. Suffice to say your best and easiest and no hassle rebuild iz the 361, Jer

The two engines I planed to work with (361 & 383) are both "B" blocks.

I think the issue is with 1962 and up - B and RB blocks

Here is a photo of both cranks.
Newer -62 and up use flexplate. Older- TC with starter gear bolts directly to extended flange which is not threaded.

Early flange.jpg
 
I'd swap the crank for the 8 bolt flange and use the 383. No one is going to notice the difference in blocks without decoding casting numbers. You will have to keep the original starter and motor mounts, everything else should bolt right up.
 
I'd swap the crank for the 8 bolt flange and use the 383. No one is going to notice the difference in blocks without decoding casting numbers. You will have to keep the original starter and motor mounts, everything else should bolt right up.

Welcome KcImperial. Why don't you head over to the welcome wagon and introduce yourself and that Imperial?
 
Welcome KcImperial. Why don't you head over to the welcome wagon and introduce yourself and that Imperial?
And tell us about the car in your avatar as well.
 
Just politly sayin' what I think RB61. You started your thread with questionz and requestz for opinions 'tween the 361 and 383. That'z why all us guyz wivez have different color hair yeah know? You can do anything with your '61 that your pocketz are deep enough to allow and thatz your only limitation. That and you have to decide at what cost you're willing to spend to make your 4400LB Barge ah street brawler. Personally my Barge tiltz the scale @ 5800lbz with ah full tank and me in it and I'd be happy az ah clam with just 12 MPG, Jer
 
If he insist on going the 383 route he is better off getting an aluminum 727 to mate to it so there's no trans bolt up issues. The 1967-1970 383/727 combo would be fine. Can parts still be had for the odd ball 361?? I know its a close brother to the 383...........
 
Itz not just finding partz for any of the B+RB blockz Steve? The only aluminum TQs that will work with that RB 383 are a '62 , '63, or '64, if he wantz to keep the push button shift. But I'm pretty darn sure he will not wanna open that can-ah-wormz! And I ain't talkin 'bout how I know this! Jer
 
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