New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife

Trunk trash and at least 10lbs of peel and stick moldings.

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I'm all about safety as others here will tell you about me....

I don't want to ever hear or see anybody get hurt or crash their C-Body.

Others will disagree that tires should be replaced every 8 years. That is the standard that DOT says is safe. I had a right/rear tire self destruct on the way to Carlisle and its scared the crap out of me. Luckily I didn't crash or hurt anybody. The other problem was the spare was old as hell and severely dry rotted. Luckily I was able to limp to a Mr. Tire and got new tires that day. You can goggle how to decode tire manufacturing dates and figure out how old your tires are.

You obviously didn’t jamb the brakes causing the car to loose control.., you are either lucky or well versed in what to do with a blowout!

As for the NYB (no name yet), the tires are about 6 years old with little wear showing.

How old was the tire that blew up on you?

I just swapped out the perfectly good tires on the wagon due to age last November so I completely agree that tires should be changed if old or even suspected of being old. Cheap insurance. And..,you can’t tell anything by looking.

I had a 77 Seville with old but perfectly good looking tires. One of them blew up (exploded) just sitting in the shop.

Inside left front shows a slight bit of uneven wear on the inside like you get with lower control arm wear. But bushing looks centered and true so I’m thinking I may just be a mis-alignment. Won’t know for sure until i get her on the rack.

Once I get her up and running properly she will definitely get new shoes.
 
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This one is for my new friend Bob:

He will appreciate how long I’ve been thinking about getting an NYB and...... that I stopped counting after 3

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The tires I just replaced on my Fury turned out to be eleven years old (the tire dealer told me that based on the tire codes). I knew they were old but didn't realize they were that old. Strange how the timing worked out - I went to the dealer and ordered the tires and wheels I wanted, was told they would be in in a couple of days and went home. I went to check the air in one tire that looked a little low by the time I got home and the valve stem came apart in my hand. That was how rotten they were. Looked perfectly fine with lots of tread but man am I glad I didn't wait any longer to get them changed out!
 
HELP!!!!

Radiator pulled this morning. One of the tubes was leaking badly about midway up on the extreme left side.

It’s obvious that someone had been putting in straight water and sealants from the amount of rust and crud in the radiator and hoses.

So all new hoses, water pump, thermostat and gooseneck are in order.

Question: without pulling the engine and boiling it out, how can I effectively get that rust and crud out of the engine block?
 
HELP!!!!

Radiator pulled this morning. One of the tubes was leaking badly about midway up on the extreme left side.

It’s obvious that someone had been putting in straight water and sealants from the amount of rust and crud in the radiator and hoses.

So all new hoses, water pump, thermostat and gooseneck are in order.

Question: without pulling the engine and boiling it out, how can I effectively get that rust and crud out of the engine block?
Flush it as best you can.
 
BTW, the body color decals on the mirrors and the door handles are a 1978 only option and there isn't any replacements available on the planet. The taillght lens have silver paint piping or pin stripping that was also a 1978 only option.
82-89 Chrysler 5th Ave use the same decal. My buddy Kip had new ones made for his at an auto wrap place.
 
HELP!!!!

Radiator pulled this morning. One of the tubes was leaking badly about midway up on the extreme left side.

It’s obvious that someone had been putting in straight water and sealants from the amount of rust and crud in the radiator and hoses.

So all new hoses, water pump, thermostat and gooseneck are in order.

Question: without pulling the engine and boiling it out, how can I effectively get that rust and crud out of the engine block?
First pressure test the system... warm so you don't make new leaks. If she has run on water for too long, you may find a core plug leaking... I'd poke at them anyhow with screwdriver, JIC. IF you feel satisfied the core plugs are still good, drain out all the coolant... knock the center out of the thermostat and refill with distilled water... run her for a good warmup cycle (even drive her a little) and drain all you can of that mess (don't forget the block plugs right behind the engine mounts, lots of crap there which may not make it out the lower hose).

It is pretty tough to visually tell the difference between rust and some sealant products... use a magnet in the drained fluids to find ferrous metal. Any significant amount will be from rust and tell a truer story about the condition of the block and heads. Unless you really want an excuse to pull the engine... you should be able to flush it pretty well in place. If you have a lot of rust, or bad core plugs, I would advise against any intensive treatments that involve removal until after you prove she isn't cooling correctly

The first 2 drained fluids have coolant and should be properly disposed of. A gallon of coolant is said to contaminate close to a million gallons of drinking water. After that, your call, continued cycles with distilled water, or the hard water from a garden hose... you decide on the capture and recycling too... there will be chemical traces which decline every cycle... it should all be disposed of, but at least you won't kill the neighbor's dog. The hard water from the hose can lead to a LOT of mineral buildup, and even worse if you have internal rust for it to adhere to. The distilled water will help dissolve some mineral buildup, but either won't be left in there long enough to do much. I'm superstitious about this and prefer to use distilled so I don't leave any undrained tap water behind.

You can purchase water pump lube/corrosion inhibitor additives... but I wouldn't bother. Your choice if you want to try any of the harsher chemical flushing products. The only one I ever used was quite nasty and was difficult to flush back out of a system... and made all of the flush water a toxic waste. check the coolant with a voltmeter prior to draining it and periodically after you've replaced the coolant. This test really shows how acidic the coolant is, but it is close to worthless right after a refill, before the new coolant has a chance to neutralize the system.


You will hopefully find the prior owner just dumped a bunch of sealant in to try to solve a simple leak issue., like that radiator, save the old one... it may become a valuable piece if you want it re-cored. There are new ones available in the aftermarket... some are happy with them, some aren't. Don't exceed a 50/50 ratio, if you want better protection, run the engine through full warmup cycles often (drive the thing) and replace the coolant and distilled water more often based on voltmeter readings.
 
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