Oh crap, I just changed my oil with a low-zinc oil, what should I do?

When I started watching/browsing BITOG regularly about 15 years ago, over time, I determined that there were a good number of "oil people" in there, who knew a huge amount about chemistry and had intimate knowledge of the various base oil groups. Plus how it all interacted together to make the final product.
CBODY67

That accounted for probably 50% of my effort reading on BITOG, separating the wheat from the chaff.
The chaff is usually easy because they tell you what they do without any explanation, stipulation, nor data. Unless the data consists of 'this is what I always do, so you should too'.
 
I disagree with using racing oil, because it's made for just that - a racing environment, which means oil changes every few hours, and not ideal for an intermittently driven engine. it's low detergent, usually.

This is an excellent point. While racing is an extreme environment, it does NOT mean something suitable for racing will meet the all requirements of a street-driven car.

Testing doesn't always catch everything either.
A perfect-storm example that comes to my mind: one winter in Alaska, GM pickups with Duramax diesels and automatic transmissions were catching fire while sitting in the driveway while the engines idled to warm up. None of the product design and software engineers saw that coming, and none of the cold-chamber testing incorporated all of the factors needed to discover it, either.
 
In an older post on BITOG, it was mentioned that just adding a zddp additive to an otherwise good motor oil, for even more zddp, would compromise the detergency additives in the base oil. Some DRIVEN racing oil specs about 3000ppm of zddp, with the note "Not for Street Use", as I recall. In such an oil with such high zddp, no real need for the normal level of detergents in the additive package as their oil change interval will be like 500 miles or so.

BITOG is an excellent site, I need to get back in there and go down the rabbit hole once again. Lots of knowledge to be gained, with patience.
 
Interesting discussion! Remember when you used to buy just one oil and use it in everything? Just like so many other things in this world, buying oil is WAY more complicated than it used to be. They say that SN oil meets all previous specifications and is fully backwards compatible. Nowhere do I see any disclaimers that say "Not safe for use in old cars!" Maybe the importance of zinc in oil is way overblown. Anyway, I just bought a case of the Valvoline VR-1 in the gray bottles. It says it's suitable for street use, though perhaps not ideal. If this engine wasn't a TNT I'd probably feel less worried about just leaving the Delo in it. In the future I'm probably going to be using Amsoil Z-rod. It's one of about 50 specialized formulations they make.
 
I agree that we might be overblowing the zinc concern, but that's because there's no good data on where the threshold is, for how low it can be vs valvespring pressure, etc.
So we aim for safety - or maybe whatever makes us feel good?

Not to be a 'do what I do' guy, but CK-rated Rotella will give you what you need and have better detergents than the VR-1.
Available almost everywhere in 10W30 and 15W40.
My home-goods store regularly has it for ~$17/gallon.
 
This is what I can tell you, for what it's worth.
Big motor outdrives and big V6 outboards burn up the lower unit gear lube fast. A singe 120 mph run for one hour will burn up the best non synthetic gear lube, it will drain out black and smelling burnt. If it's not "flushed" and replaced the gears will fail soon after.

Walmart Tech house brand "synthetic" gear lube presents "no" deterioration to the same non-lab inspection over the same conditions.

That's the only definitive result I've seen from any type of oil product.
 
What the oil companies say is that HDDP is only a part of the total anti-wear package, and if they reduce it, they make up for it in other ways, and the quality of oil should not be judged only by ZDDP content--it's just not that simple. Oil in general has got to be WAY better today than it was in the '60s. But there's a lot of hype about needing "high-zinc" oil in these older cars, and it's hard ignore.
 
Driving has a lot to do with it. If it idles a lot the Zinc is more important. New cam and lifter interface needs high zinc to build up the protection that zinc provides. Aggressive cams and valve springs wear back through the built up protection layer quicker.
A stock engine with many miles on it, and not using it for parades I would just drive it.
 
I have forgotten most of what I learned about lubrication tech when in school, and in the shipbuilding industry and later automotive industry, where I mainly worked on heavy military equipment design and testing. But, I do remember the engines in the old days, when I took them apart. They were totally clogged with carbon debris, left from the oil breaking down. And, with the two major types of crude, the asphalt from Tx and the wax from Pa, the so called blends were enhanced to accommodate the higher output engines. What we found is that our modern auto engines no longer spew a trail of smoke as we drive. When kids, the air was always full of a smell of carbon thru traffic....no longer. No huge smoke from the diesels, due to very high injection pressures and turbos for the most part. No wear on the inside of engines as we used to find after 100k miles with a huge ring ridge. But, the geniuses found that the zinc and phosphorus in the oil would kill the cats, so, you began to find a star on the outside of the oil spec marker on the bottle, and with that was the reduced additive. This is based on an ASTM API four ball test, with lots of pressure and not hydro film generation as on normal film bearings. And, since the diesels had no cats back then, they kept the additives, and are better even now. I have used diesel trucks and tractors for decades and find a couple things. First, how serious a problem is it....say for a lawn and garden type flat tappet engine using this new oil.....hmmm....not too shabby. Also, they then changed the engine coolant to remove the additives that prevent cavitation and sleeve destruction. And when that happened, a lot of wet sleeve diesels bit the dust....cav resulted in loss of seal on the sleeves and coolant loss. And they changed the fuel, and removed the lead......cat again. Did this tend to cause valve recession.....yep. Big issue, maybe not. But, I like to err on the side of caution, since I no longer can afford or enjoy the destruction of my mechanical stuff. So this means making sure you use the correct coolant esp in engines with wet sleeves. I have always added the ZDDP in those engines that had flat tappets OR that had a lot of chains, esp driving cams. And note that almost all overhead cams fit that size shoe.....they aint got no stinking rollers. And, I like to use fuel additives where appropriate. This is also true for my diesels that no longer have the sulphur to protect the pumps.....and guess what happens. Even in the last decade, the geniuses at GM have ruined the fuel pumps on the japanese Isuzu engines that are called duramax......right. They eat their fuel pumps due to lack of lube.....I think they are CP4 pumps.....I have one. So, this means add a lift pump and use fuel with added sulphur.....and oh by the way, Southern States does that for you as well as brings up the cetane....very nice. It is called preventative maintenance......and I also will bleed my brakes to remove the great hygroscopic fluid that collects water, and turns brown, then black. What color is your brake fluid.
 
I also will bleed my brakes to remove the great hygroscopic fluid that collects water, and turns brown, then black.
I was just reading about that and according to a couple good sources, the fluid picks up the carbon in the rubber over time and that makes the color turn black. Here's a video from Raybestos talking about it. I would tend to believe these guys over some random YouTuber or other non-pro source.

That's not to say it shouldn't be changed and probably color would be an excellent indicator to change the fluid because of age and therefore how much moisture is in it. Just looking at real causes, not trying to start an argument or too much discussion.

 
I like all his points but one. Most new fluid 3 and 4, are almost clear when new, ime. And, interesting point on why it turns....but I am going to put some in an open cup and let it sit.....I want to see about color. I have always thought that it was the water and breakdown that caused the initial browning. And every time I change fluid after couple years, it is discolored, and easy to see age spots. Learn sumthin ever day.
 
I like all his points but one. Most new fluid 3 and 4, are almost clear when new, ime. And, interesting point on why it turns....but I am going to put some in an open cup and let it sit.....I want to see about color. I have always thought that it was the water and breakdown that caused the initial browning. And every time I change fluid after couple years, it is discolored, and easy to see age spots. Learn sumthin ever day.
That would be interesting. I've been researching brake fluids since the last car I bought has Dot 5 fluid and I've never been a fan of it. I don't want to turn this into a brake fluid thread though...

Biggest issues I see is finding reliable information and not some guy in his basement knocking out "content" for their YouTube video. That brings us back to this thread... You can read and watch everything about different oils and fluids and you have to separate the truth from the wives tales. Ask on a forum and you get a few, well thought out and researched opinions and at the other end of the scale, opinions coming from guys that need to be reminded not to drink the oil.... and a bunch somewhere in the middle.
 
Drink the oil. An old time friend ran a small shop back in the day when we stood around. A guy comes in and wants Wolfs Head racing oil. My guy carried Kendall. He told the guy that this was great oil, pulled out a quart, opened and began to drain it into his mouth, running all over the counter. Everyone just stood there .........
 
The guy who discovered Vaseline claimed to eat some every day. He lived to be 96.
The guy that discovered that Tetraethyllead (octane booster) used to pour it on his hands and inhale the vapors in demonstrations. He did get lead poisoning.

He went on to develop Freon.... and died at 51, getting tangled in a lifting system that he designed for bedridden patients
 
Drink the oil. An old time friend ran a small shop back in the day when we stood around. A guy comes in and wants Wolfs Head racing oil. My guy carried Kendall. He told the guy that this was great oil, pulled out a quart, opened and began to drain it into his mouth, running all over the counter. Everyone just stood there .........
I really want to clean out some oil bottles now and drink ice tea out of them at a car show.
 
Where do you guys come up with this stuff.........I drank DDT as a young child, and I think I am brain dead.
 
Where do you guys come up with this stuff.........I drank DDT as a young child, and I think I am brain dead.
I think we are all thinking on a much higher plain than others... Or it's from painting cars without a mask... I'm not sure.
 
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