pocket panel light - general and specific questions

Jeff

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My general question is: how can I use this wiring diagram to help diagnose why the pocket panel lights don't light up? I can't make head or tails of this diagram. The pocket panel lamps are at top left, but the lines don't connect up and the text is ambiguous. At the very top, for instance, there is a line where one side says "to instrument panel" and the other side says "to right rear door jamb switch." But how does that wire connect to the pocket panel? Are there better diagrams available, such as those shown in this thread: A logical diagnostic process... I'm asking this generally because I have other electrical issues and it would be good to be able to use these diagrams. I do see the color codes and legends.

My specific question relates to the pocket panel lamps. Neither light up. I was told they should light when the door is opened, like the map light does up front. I have the bulb out of the socket (driver side) and when I use a multimeter I don't get any voltage when I open the door, even thought the map light comes on. Since the door switch seems to work, what would be the next thing to check? The above diagram has text that says "to right rear door jamb switch." Does that mean the pocket panel lights only come on when the passenger door is open?

Finally, are there some good tricks for cleaning up sockets? I have a number of light bulb sockets that are pretty cruddy. The tail light sockets, for instance, are a little rusty and dirty. I sprayed some WD40 in one and wiped it down with a rag. That helped, but is there a best practice for cleaning up old sockets?

Thx!!
 

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First, are you using a FSM for your wiring diagram?
Get one here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Here's a tip... Print out the pages that the wiring diagram is on and high light the circuit.

This may help too... but the FSM is always the best source. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring Diagrams

Next... and this seems to trip everyone up. The switch returns ground the bulb, not power. You will have 12 volts to the light at all times and ground only when the door is open.

Pull the kick panel off on either door and check the switches. Remember, these do not have 12 volts going to them... Again, that seems to screw everyone up... Check continuity to ground at the terminals with the doors open. Make sure everything is connected.

By "pocket panel lights" I assume you are talking about the lights in the rear door panels. On the driver's side, check for 12 volts at the connector all the time and ground when the door is open. If nothing there, start up the line to the next connection under the kick panel.

That is assuming you checked the fuse first.... LOL.
 
Thx, I meant to attach the pdf. But yes, it is from the FSM.
 
I can't get that file to open, so I'm not sure what wiring diagram you are using.
 
Here is a jpg. It is the body wiring diagram for the 1970 Fury. It looks like one pocket panel lamp goes to a connector and then joins the other side at a splice. Then both to a female connector. On the instrument panel diagram, there is a male connector labeled "to dome lamp wiring" that this female may connect to? On the body wiring diagram there is another section of M1/M2 connected to the dome lamp. BTW, this is a convertible...maybe the dome lamp diagram is alternative to the pocket panel diagram? The car didn't come with the top intact, but I suppose it does not have a dome light.
body wiring diagram.jpg
 
OK... see the purple wire for your lights? That should have 12 volts all the time.

Does your trunk light work? Same circuit.

See the yellow wires? They should have continuity to ground when the door is open.

If you don't +12 volts, follow the wire up the rocker to the next plug and try it there. From there it goes up to the big power splice up under the dash. If that's bad, a lot of other things wouldn't be working either, like turn signals etc.

If you don't have ground, follow the wire up the rocker to the next plug and try it there. From there it goes to your door switches.
 
Thanks. I will do some testing. For checking continuity to ground do you use the ohms setting and connect one end to the negative battery post and the other end to the yellow wire?
 
Most of the DMMs these days have a setting for checking continuity. It might look like a sound wave and it's usually on the end of the ohm scale. Try to find that... It will make life easier. When you touch the leads together, it will make a tone.

For ground, any convenient spot on the body that has no paint will work.
 
just going by memory here , but:
you should have pink and yellow wires running down the drivers side sill to the left rear socket.
the splice you are talking about runs under the front seat, connecting left to right.
you have two wires going to the socket because you can operate the lights when the doors open and through the dash switch.
if i remember right, the yellow wires go to the door jamb switches. the left switch is connected to the right under the dash.
your ground for the quarter lights are the lower interior quarter panels. the socket grounds to the metal inner part of this panel. on the bottom of the panel there should be a metal tab that connects the inner panel to the floor of the car.
 
your ground for the quarter lights are the lower interior quarter panels. the socket grounds to the metal inner part of this panel. on the bottom of the panel there should be a metal tab that connects the inner panel to the floor of the car.

No grounds for the lights. The yellow wires return ground from the door jamb switches. Everything else is correct.
 
It always bugs me when people ask for help and then don't come back to the thread to report the results. But I've been procrastinating because it means I have to publicly admit my own stupidity. It was the fuse. In my defense, I did look at the fuse panel first and there isn't a fuse labeled for the pocket panel lights. There is one for the dome lights, and I didn't understand the relationship between the two until studying the wiring diagram during this thread.

It wasn't a complete waste of your time though Big John, because the information you gave helped me understand this problem and will help with my other electrical issues. Thank you!
 
BTW, is there some sort of gravity switch on the trunk light that causes it to turn on and off as the angle of the trunk changes?
 
BTW, is there some sort of gravity switch on the trunk light that causes it to turn on and off as the angle of the trunk changes?
Yes. I believe it's a mercury switch. The switch will have a little blob of mercury in it that can roll back and forth across the contacts.

Here's an example (I think this is one from an older furnace thermostat).
Mercury_Switch_without_housing.jpg

Mercury_switch
 
That's pretty cool, and it's even cooler that mine still works.
 
Going back to the wiring diagram posted above, does the symbol that looks like an antenna by the back-up and stop lights indicate that the ground is provided by the socket itself? I am getting voltage at the back-up light socket when in reverse and with the mm grounded to the bumper but not when the mm is touching the socket. Thus, it seems like the problem is that the socket isn't grounded.
 
Going back to the wiring diagram posted above, does the symbol that looks like an antenna by the back-up and stop lights indicate that the ground is provided by the socket itself? I am getting voltage at the back-up light socket when in reverse and with the mm grounded to the bumper but not when the mm is touching the socket. Thus, it seems like the problem is that the socket isn't grounded.
The socket has to be clipped in the hole and gets ground from the body.

So, yes, the socket is grounded, but that ground comes from its mounting.
 
The socket has to be clipped in the hole and gets ground from the body.

So, yes, the socket is grounded, but that ground comes from its mounting.


It's the mounting. I ran a jumper from the socket to the bumper and it lights up. Must be some corrosion in there.
 
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