Pulled my 383 to replace the rear main seal and found this

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  1. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer FCBO Gold Member

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    There was a recent discussion here about the need (actually the lack of it) for a high volume or high pressure oil pump on our mild, slow revving street engines. My concern would be shearing the pump drive shaft or rounding out the hex if using an old OEM shaft instead of a beefier, hardened aftermarket shaft. In your particular case, I can only imagine how thick your oil gets on a cold night in Alberta, putting quite a strain on that shaft when it tries to pump high-volume tar. :(
     
  2. Welder guy

    Welder guy Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Thanks everyone for the information and opinions. I’ve had the car for 36 years and I really enjoy working on it . The classic rear main oil leak finally got to me . It will give me a chance to clean up the engine bay. My car is a driver , it keeps me out of trouble
     
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  3. Mr onetwo

    Mr onetwo Well-Known Member

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  4. oldkimmer

    oldkimmer Member

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  5. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    Wow!

    Yea, that's up there in price, but if it works the first time, it's worth it. I wonder what the best option is for the split... Up into the block or on the retainer?
     
  6. 69 300 vert

    69 300 vert Well-Known Member

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    Comes with detailed instructions.

    I'd like to see those instructions.
     
  7. Rustyrodknocker

    Rustyrodknocker Active Member

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    I would have damn sure paid it. I finally just put in a different engine. Damn seal would hold for weeks in town but after an hour on the freeway they would let go.
    From what I have read you need a propper fitting mopar rope seal on a knurled crank or smooth the journal for the rubber seal.
    I had a lousy fitting rope and a few of the rubber poly seals.