polara383500
Member
Is there anyone out there that has put a rear coil overs on there C-body if so what did you use?
Rear coilovers for C-body
- Thread starter polara383500
- Start date
volksworld
Active Member
the area of the unibody where the shocks attach is reinforced just enough for a shock...it is not strong enough for a coilover...so there would be some serious fabrication involved...the top of the frame rail is pretty much sheetmetal too so there isnt much structural back there to tie into easily...and the rear shocks are at a bad angle too...
What advantages are you looking for?
polara383500
Member
Just curious for better ride quality!
Monroe offers coil overs.
58577 :: e-Catalog :: MONROE® SHOCKS & STRUTS
My experience on C bodies is you only gain an inch of rear height if your springs are bagged out or weak.
They can be harsh around town but ride better with a load aboard.
Yet as mentioned putting more stress on the rear crossmember.
Band-aid really.
With ESPO and Alcan offering replacement C body springs they are a better solution to a saggy rear end.
Buy Quality Automotive Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension Parts for your Classic or Antique Auto
Alcan Spring • Custom Leaf Springs • Handmade in the USA
58577 :: e-Catalog :: MONROE® SHOCKS & STRUTS
My experience on C bodies is you only gain an inch of rear height if your springs are bagged out or weak.
They can be harsh around town but ride better with a load aboard.
Yet as mentioned putting more stress on the rear crossmember.
Band-aid really.
With ESPO and Alcan offering replacement C body springs they are a better solution to a saggy rear end.
Buy Quality Automotive Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension Parts for your Classic or Antique Auto
Alcan Spring • Custom Leaf Springs • Handmade in the USA
polara383500
Member
I heard some were putting on QA1 double adjustable!
As others have asked,what are your intentions??
Just cruising? Slalom pylon racing? Mountain carving?? LOL
polara383500
Member
Cruising Ma doesn’t have the best of rds!
I don't have much to compare to except for old weak shocks but installed the Monroe's not because I was sagging but because of the rare occasions I have a few people or extra weight in the trunk. Anyway they seam to ride just fine. I wimped out because I wanted to experiment with some of these Rancho adjustable shocks. They are a few of these that should fit. The pics are usually generic and the the parts sites say they don't fit but if you compare the shocks that do fit to the detailed Rancho specs, I think they do.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I'm adamant about not screwing with a good thing. New leaves, bushings, shocks and a stabilizer bar will be far better than anything that involves what you're talking about.
polara383500
Member
It’s just question to see what people have on there’s cause mine are no good! https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-td901 I was looking at these!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
$520 bucks for a pr of shocks? Are you too rich or are you out of your mind...
I'm not suggesting shocks to take the place of all the appropriate suspension stuff. I did that first too. But I do think we have limited choices for rear shocks (bilsteins included) and there are better choices out there if we just look a bit deeper and not rely on the standard fitment list. You can get black boots for the Ranchos too!
Those QA1s are a good example but they are very spendy.
Those QA1s are a good example but they are very spendy.
As I mentioned in other shock threads and others agree...
KYB Gas-AJust hands down perfect for C bodies and cost a little more than parts jobber replacements.
520 bux can get you a new set of leafs and then some.
KYB Gas-AJust hands down perfect for C bodies and cost a little more than parts jobber replacements.
520 bux can get you a new set of leafs and then some.
FIRST, how are you defining "ride quality"? Desiring that smoooth, floaty GM-type "boulevard ride" that was so sought after in the 1960s? More "control" and firmness, which Chrysler products were know more for back then? Is impact harshness the issue? What wheel and tire combination on the car?? Especially TIRES. And, of course, WHICH C-body vehicle?
When the cars were new, the "gold standard" of HD shocks for most American cars were the Monroe Super 500s, then followed by the Gabriel Strider adjustable shocks. Monroe was the OEM shock supplier of Chrysler Corp, back then. Those were my experiences with our '66 Newport Town Sedan (which are still on it, Gabriels on the front, after the Monroes got a bit loose, with the Monroes still on the rear). The ride was smooth and firm, which I like.
In more current times, the KYBs have had universal praise on many Chrysler C-body forums.
Just because the mounting styles and compressed/extended lengths of two shocks might be the same does NOT mean they'll work in applications they aren't listed for. What makes the shocks unique to the general application is the internal valving. The resistance curves, especially. Things which you can't discern just by reading their advertising! Why put shocks from an off-road-oriented company on a vehicle the vendor says they don't fit? Might be some expensive experimentation to end up back where you should have been otherwise, I suspect.
The biggest bore diameter shock that will fit the front is 1". Due to the tube the shock is housed within. The rear shocks have no such issues.
I mentioned "tire choice" as a big issue, from what I found out with Pirelli P77s and KONIs on my '77 Camaro. The sidewall stiffness of the tire and also the rubber compound can absorb lots of things the shocks don't feel, which can make the shocks perceive the road is smoother than it really is, which means "lazy damping". Putting BFG Radial TAs back on it, it got back the "gutsy" feel I liked and let me adjust the KONIs back to where they acted right, too.
Respectfully awaiting your reply,
CBODY67
When the cars were new, the "gold standard" of HD shocks for most American cars were the Monroe Super 500s, then followed by the Gabriel Strider adjustable shocks. Monroe was the OEM shock supplier of Chrysler Corp, back then. Those were my experiences with our '66 Newport Town Sedan (which are still on it, Gabriels on the front, after the Monroes got a bit loose, with the Monroes still on the rear). The ride was smooth and firm, which I like.
In more current times, the KYBs have had universal praise on many Chrysler C-body forums.
Just because the mounting styles and compressed/extended lengths of two shocks might be the same does NOT mean they'll work in applications they aren't listed for. What makes the shocks unique to the general application is the internal valving. The resistance curves, especially. Things which you can't discern just by reading their advertising! Why put shocks from an off-road-oriented company on a vehicle the vendor says they don't fit? Might be some expensive experimentation to end up back where you should have been otherwise, I suspect.
The biggest bore diameter shock that will fit the front is 1". Due to the tube the shock is housed within. The rear shocks have no such issues.
I mentioned "tire choice" as a big issue, from what I found out with Pirelli P77s and KONIs on my '77 Camaro. The sidewall stiffness of the tire and also the rubber compound can absorb lots of things the shocks don't feel, which can make the shocks perceive the road is smoother than it really is, which means "lazy damping". Putting BFG Radial TAs back on it, it got back the "gutsy" feel I liked and let me adjust the KONIs back to where they acted right, too.
Respectfully awaiting your reply,
CBODY67
polara383500
Member
Know reason for putting on a certain brand just was asking for feed back! I have on the stock rims not sure about the tires there the 215-75-15 double eagles I need to put diff ones on cause there getting dry rotted! I just got the car 6 months ago! Just putting feelers out on what people have on there’s !! Thanks for the feed backs!
I run Bilsteins on my convertible. I urge on a regular basis for all new C body owners to replace their front suspension and rear springs. They may not look it but if the springs are original, they ARE sagging and stressed.
polara383500
Member
The back leafs were change! When you say front just the shocks or more in depth?
Upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm,sway bar bushings if factory equipped.
Your torsion bars ( as advised from a TB manufacturer) should be fine. Unless you want a tighter or stiffer ride or a bar is broken, you wouldn't need to replace those.
Your steering box will eliminate steering play if you upgrade that which can feel like suspension issues if bad.
If your leaf springs were replaced why would you need a beefy shock absorber?
I swap all my leaf springs asap right after I aquire a car. 6 or 7 leafs, 1 inch over stock. I can fill the trunk with beach or car show gear plus put three in the back seat and never appear to be sagging or even think about bottoming out.
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