Rebuild 383 bottom end

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My old 383 -66 bottom end is worn out and I’ve got my hands on an rebuild .030 bottom end with new bearings and Sealed Power/Speed Pro L2315NF30 forged piston.

Pistons.JPG


I’m planning to move all the stuff from the worn out bottom end to the rebuild bottom end.
The camshaft I’m using is a mild Lunati:
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 256/262
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 213/220
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .454/.475
LSA/ICL: 112/108

Do you think I can use my renovated 915 heads or would 9.77 CR be too much for pump gas?

Any thoughts on what HP I can expect?
 
I’ve got 915s on the still stock bottom end 440 in my Imp and have no issues running pump gas.
 
Your better off with the closed chamber design, with a functional quench, as opposed to the open chamber choice and having to run 38* timing to offset the poor flame travel.
 
You will not be at 9.77:1. That is more of a blueprint number and milling of the heads and block would most likely need to be done to get to that number.
You should be plenty safe on pump gas.
 
38-40 degrees timing is for closed and open chamber heads, not just the open chamber heads (and pre-dates the 906 heads first use; btw, small block Chevys have the same optimum timing spec). Check the chamber volume of the heads and figure the head gasket thickness at .040".

Why the perceived need for forged pistons in a basically stock motor? Just curious.

Cam specs look really nice. Let us know how it works out.

CBODY67
 
I really don't know why the builder choose forged pistons but I guess that what he had on the shelf, is there any downside to use forged pistons?
 
Yes, I go with hypereutectic pistons. Forged are heavier and can be noisy and slap around when cold. If you’re never going to use any power adders such as nitrous, a turbo, a supercharger etc., all you need is cast slugs.
 
Forged pistons need to be set-up looser AND can have "cold start piston noise" as a result. They are stronger, but expand more from cold-to-operating temperature, which can make additional sounds when you increase engine speed from idle.

In the cases where forged pistons were OEM (as in the 302 and 350 cid Z/28 engines of the late '60s and early '70s), they used the forged pistons as the SCCA stock class would not let them add forged pistons to a cast piston-spec engine. So those engines got the forged pistons and Holley 3310 4bbls as OEM stock equipment, as a result.

My machine shop guy worked at a large metro Chevy dealer in the early 1970s. Fathers would buy their daughters a new Z/28 for graduation. Then when they came back with engine noise complaints, they put normal 10.0 CR OEM cast pistons in the engines. Quiet and everybody was happy.

CBODY67
 
OK, that's the downsides, heavier and maybe piston slap.

Is there any upsides exept when you use any power adders?

I read a little about them here: Speed Pro Pistons Features

"Exclusive POWERFORGED alloy features 12 percent silicon, which dramatically reduces thermal expansion, enables engine builders to use tighter bore clearances and minimizes ring-groove and skirt wear."

Maybe something had happend since early 1970s?
 
Remember, you're reading "advertising copy" not an engineering manual. Certainly, more accurate piston ring location is good. The skirt coatings are what many OEMs are using now, on non-forged pistons. As time has progressed, evolutionary changes in alloy, machining, etc. should always be going on. When they make a verified improvement in the product, the catalog dialogue reflects it.

Ask your engine builder how much skirt clearance those pistons specify. Only THEM can the "tighter tolerances" issue be determined. There's a late 1967 issue of "Hot Rod" magazine where they dyno a '67 383/325 motor. See how much power those stock cast pistons would make.

It used to be that the only upgrade from a cast piston was a forged piston. This was changed when the hypereutetic pistons were introduced. Same skirt clearance as cast pistons, strength of forged pistons.

A non-judgmental issue of many engine builders. By observation, they have a supply network they work with. Possibly even more than one. Each network has their particular brands of products. All good stuff, just different brands. If there might be something "out of network", it might need more effort to find some things, but if a similar product is available in network, they'll use and promote it if it worked well for them. Just how things are. So they use what they can get rather than look for something else. In this case, if your builder has a good source for the forged pistons, but not quality cast or hypereutetic pistons, he'll lean toward the forged pistons as a result. Nothing wrong with that at all, other than customer cost issues.

In building engines, we all want "the best" and "better than stock" with regard to many internal components. This is natural, but it also presumes that the stock items are not good, although they have lasted well past 100K miles with no problems. We all want to brag about the things in our engines, typically, so some normal upgrades (roller timing chains, windage trays, ignition systems) are easy to talk about. Add "forged pistons" and you've suddenly upgraded to "race engine items", in a basically stock engine.

There is ONE compelling reason to use those particular pistons. Keeping the CR in the higher 9s, rather than higher 8s. Just be prepared to use 93 posted octane fuels if needed.

As an side note, as the pistons will usually have a different weight than the stock pistons the crank is balanced for, you'll need to get the rotating assy balanced. No matter whose pistons are used (other than Chrysler stock OEM-production pistons).

You're the one who has to be pleased in this deal. It's YOUR money, not ours.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Finally something positive: Keeping the CR in the higher 9s, rather than higher 8s, which was one of my goal with this engine.
 
Measured the 915 heads to a tiny little less than 8cl which should be about 80 CC, zero decked block and MrGasket 040 head gaskets.
Eddie 600cfm carb, dual plane Mopar M1 alu intake, HP manifolds with dual 2.5" exhaust.
What HP do you think I can expect with the CR and cam shaft above?
 
You will be in the 9:1 range or a tad more. If you deck it to zero it will give a nice quench with closed chamber creating turbulence and resisting detonation and better emissions, this is how the OEMs are able to use higher ratios now than in the 70s/80s.
I would guess you will have a very strong 383 magnum, 330-350 hp, looks like a good combo.
Don't worry about any piston slap just give it time to warm a bit before you stand on it.
 
Thanks!
Thats what I'm looking for, a strong streetable 383...
 
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