Recommendations on rust treatment. POR 15 or ?

Batey222

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I'm currently restoring a 1967 Newport convertible. Currently in the process of replacing the floor pans with 67 four door parts car. Would like to know what you guys recommend for under body rust treatment before putting the pans back in? Thanks.
 
I like the POR-15 too, but you have to understand it works best with rusty, rough metal. It may peal off painted surfaces if they aren't prepped right. Read the stuff on their website.
 
I don't like POR-15. Had the same issues with peeling. In my opinion it's old-tech and there are better products out there.

I use Rust-Bullet and have been very satisfied for years.
 
I use KBScoatings which is like POR15 but is cheaper and has a better range. I plan on using it as a top coat on my challenger project eventually.
 
My research says the best way to go is to soak everything with Ospho Rust Converter and then Rustoleum.
 
I've used the Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood and really liked it. I've used Por 15 on the same project and liked it and I've also used Rustbullet on the same project. All seem to work the same but which one works the best?, only time will tell.
 
As a test, in 1996 I painted a bunch of garden tools with POR-15 to see how it handled being left out in the weather. It seems every spring a few rakes, shovels, etc. reappear as the snow melts. After 10 years of abuse the finish is still very good. The POR-15 I used was one of the early products which only came in black and was UV sensitive. On the car, we painted to firewall and later decided to strip it and use body color. Getting the stuff off with a sand-blaster was a lot easier said than done!
All my floors and the whole underside of the car are done with POR-15.
I love the stuff.
 
POR -15 is great yes when applied to a properly prepared surface, shiny metal just wont do it. I primed and painted a trunk floor of a 1960 Dodge Dart back in the 90's and then about 2009 I found rust stains on the paint, so I took a 3000psi pressure washer to it and cleaned off the rust stains, leaving the paint intact and still good. There was no rust in the floor at all. Nothing peeled. I still say to go with KBS as it has the same formula as POR-15 but KBS has a bigger range and also UV stable products.
 
Went with the rustbullet here. Won't know for sure how good it is for a while. I liked what I saw with it though. Stuff does apply nice, and go a long way. Do have to use their cleaner before applying though. It helps etch the metal a bit for the paint.
 
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Thanks for the great information. Looks like they all work well. Just have to pick one.
 
A good rust convertor should be the first step on seriously rusted areas. It converts the rust to carbon and stops the spread. Then, any of the above, although I never warmed up to POR-15.
 
Look at that great project! feel free to tell us more about it, how you came to own it, it's history, your plans etc..
 
Are the ones listed above a rust converter?

I bought this car in 2001 from a salvage yard for $300 for my son and I to rebuild. When he started high school he was to busy to work on it. It's been in my shop since then and I just now picked it back up. Started on the floor pans last week. I have a four door Newport that I bought as a parts car off eBay for $500. Had to drive to St. Louis to pick it up several years ago. The plan is to put it back as original as possible to use locally and long cross country road trips. With the help of you guys on this website I'm sure it will be done. Thanks.
 
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