Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible

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Look at these closely. Under washer is Gloss, and on the edge where no elements it had a "gloss or semi gloss" look to it. Maybe you have to see it in person. I always assumed it was satin, but now I'm thinking semi-gloss.
Just thinking out loud... Do you suppose the cowl was painted at the same time as the radiator support? That could open up a lot of possibilities for gloss as I think the requirement was "make it black and not too sloppy".
 
The cowl is not flat black, nor satin or semi gloss, (which does work OK).
It's a 70% gloss. Or gloss black reduced with a hardner.
Sometimes buffing a semi gloss finish works well.

The 300 is looking great James....... :thumbsup:
 
No is a gm Color...believe is Bahama blue but looks pretty well the same...car will loOK killer with that blue....keep up the good work
I actually bought a can of dupli-color a few weeks ago and was going to use it on some inner fender areas. The color match is very close.

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The cowl is not flat black, nor satin or semi gloss, (which does work OK).
It's a 70% gloss. Or gloss black reduced with a hardner.
Sometimes buffing a semi gloss finish works well.

The 300 is looking great James....... :thumbsup:
Thanks, Will!

A friend of mine sent me a link regarding Organosol. Thanks to the obsessive-compulsive B and E body guys, the information on this topic can fill a library.

Organosol: Separating Truth From Fiction
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/organosol-separating-truth-from-fiction/
I settled for Krylon semi-flat, #51613, and avoided the over-spray. I think the results are exactly what I was looking for.
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Just thinking out loud... Do you suppose the cowl was painted at the same time as the radiator support? That could open up a lot of possibilities for gloss as I think the requirement was "make it black and not too sloppy".

According to the article from the link posted above, I believe that is correct. I will be spraying the Krylon in the front of my rad support, as it was originally done.
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:thumbsup: .... I gotta get up to hang with you so I can watch you work and keep you company....Looks good

LOL, you are welcome to come up but you wouldn't see much, this work was done 30 minutes at a time over the past 5 weeks!

Yes...it is

Thank you, another unidentified part tagged and bagged! Almost threw it out.
 
Before the stub could be reunited with the body, I wanted to clean up and undercoat the metal. It was suggested I use 3M Body Schutz, which is supposed to work just like the original. Not sure that was always a good idea, since it tended to work in reverse by keeping the moisture in, against the metal. Still wanted something over the prepped and painted floor and in between where the stub was going.

I picked up this single use can and applicator.

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Of course I didn't reed the label and missed the small detail that I needed the $125 Shutz gun to spray the stuff! I looked at pictures on line and decided the gun looked familiar, so I took my $10 Harbor Freight hand held sand blaster that never worked and converted into a very effective Shutz gun.

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The results are as expected, although I could have used another can and added a few more coats. I will be working my way back, removing the old flaky undercoating, treating, patching and Shutzing until I reach the rear of the car. We don't need no stinking rotisserie!
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Just to round out the season, I needed to re-install the stub to get it all put to bed into the garage for the winter. It's not easy moving 300+ lbs of steel around the yard alone, lining it up and bolting it in place, especially after two years and not remembering where the bolts are or how many I needed.:realcrazy:


Looks about right:
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300 lbs of steel above my head:
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There they are! A little zinc coating for good measure.
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Reunited, how it feels so good:
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What a difference 10 years make:
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congratulations on the progress.

How is black beauty doing ?
I see it up on jacks?

Carsten
 
congratulations on the progress.

How is black beauty doing ?
I see it up on jacks?

Carsten
You mean the Organ donor, LOL?

Just kidding.

My 15 year old has named him Frank (short for Frankenstein) and is insisting that we fix him up so she can use the car when she gets her license in two years. I'll be teaching her to weld, that's for sure! He will need a lot of patching.

As for the lift, I've been doing some maintenance and getting him road worthy, brakes, gas tank, fuel lines and such. I've taken some pics and when I get to a point of progress I will start a thread, but that will be next year sometime. It won't be so much of a restoration as it will be an "infomercial" since I can only keep one of these things and when I'm ready, or when the right number comes along, Frank will be going to another "forever" family.
 
[QUOTE="Samplingman,

A friend of mine sent me a link regarding Organosol. Thanks to the obsessive-compulsive B and E body guys, the information on this topic can fill a library.

Organosol: Separating Truth From Fiction

Great article. Not many get it right when refinishing the "blacked out" areas on 69/70 Mopars.
I refinished the hood on one of my A12 road runners once and it was a challenge getting the texture and a even finish, even using the correct Organosol black. Sure looks good when done correctly though.
 
[QUOTE="Samplingman,

A friend of mine sent me a link regarding Organosol. Thanks to the obsessive-compulsive B and E body guys, the information on this topic can fill a library.

Organosol: Separating Truth From Fiction

Great article. Not many get it right when refinishing the "blacked out" areas on 69/70 Mopars.
I refinished the hood on one of my A12 road runners once and it was a challenge getting the texture and a even finish, even using the correct Organosol black. Sure looks good when done correctly though.
Wow.
So, Walmart Satin Black is wrong, then. . . .
 
Wow.
So, Walmart Satin Black is wrong, then. . . .

Yep...... Those "black out" hoods & body panels that weren't tape had a fine texture in them. Roadrunner and GTX hood stripes, black out below the 69 GTX side trim, AAR & T/A hoods.... etc. All organosol black. There is a code for it on most paint charts and in the parts & service manuals.
The color is easy, tricky part is finding the organosol, (a type of ash), to blend.
 
Just to round out the season, I needed to re-install the stub to get it all put to bed into the garage for the winter. It's not easy moving 300+ lbs of steel around the yard alone, lining it up and bolting it in place, especially after two years and not remembering where the bolts are or how many I needed.:realcrazy:


Looks about right:
View attachment 98520 View attachment 98521

300 lbs of steel above my head: View attachment 98522

There they are! A little zinc coating for good measure. View attachment 98523 View attachment 98524 View attachment 98526

Reunited, how it feels so good:
View attachment 98527

What a difference 10 years make:
View attachment 98531

Very impressed with your workmanship and the progress you've made. Keep going, and you'll have the car at Carlisle next year.
 
Jim,

Glad to see some noticeable progress and it looks like the car will be ready for you to return to me soon. You do remember that it was just a loaner ..... Don't you? Besides, you're getting a little too old for that top down hair blowing everywhere kid stuff, you're more of a minivan guy now.

The picture of the car before I bought it is dated August of 2006, but I bought the car from the guy in Florida in February of 2006.
 
Jim,

Glad to see some noticeable progress and it looks like the car will be ready for you to return to me soon. You do remember that it was just a loaner ..... Don't you? Besides, you're getting a little too old for that top down hair blowing everywhere kid stuff, you're more of a minivan guy now.

The picture of the car before I bought it is dated August of 2006, but I bought the car from the guy in Florida in February of 2006.

Um...yeah, about that return policy...it will be done by Easter!
:rofl:
 
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