Rust removal on my 66 Polara
- Thread starter mr. fix it
- Start date
Well done ! Enjoy the greater chicagoland area ;)
nice work. while in mount prospect maybe you can hit the police auction
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Actually "Sheets of steel" it takes Sheets of steel to do a job like this!!!:giggle:
And when this is done, I will have proved that anyone with with the nerve to try it can do it because I have never done something like before.
And yes I did think for a short period what Commando posted but changed earlier.
At this point I'd be thinking WTF did I get myself into??? but I took a deep breath and thanks to John_A telling me about the floor pan and rails for sale has made this job so much easier to tackle!
It is going to be very time consuming... Maybe even more than the Stub Frame I did last year.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
My new trunk pan arrived but was damaged. C2C Fabrication was great to deal with on the phone. they are shipping another right away although I am not ready for it.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
So a quick update to my slow progress...
I have not made much progress other than getting the new to me frame rails and floor pan as you are aware of in another thread.
I have now a good Lincoln 170 mig with gas welder to work with.
I am now getting ready to tackle the rear of the trunk that spans across the tail light section.
The previous restoration had galvanized sheet metal and self tappers galoure along with bondo and tar to seal things up.
The more I clean the less metal I have to work with so I am fabbing up just about the entire section which is very slow going
i have most of my outdoor project completed so now I can get back to the car
I have not made much progress other than getting the new to me frame rails and floor pan as you are aware of in another thread.
I have now a good Lincoln 170 mig with gas welder to work with.
I am now getting ready to tackle the rear of the trunk that spans across the tail light section.
The previous restoration had galvanized sheet metal and self tappers galoure along with bondo and tar to seal things up.
The more I clean the less metal I have to work with so I am fabbing up just about the entire section which is very slow going
i have most of my outdoor project completed so now I can get back to the car
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
And my order form Springs n' Things arrived with the new spring bushings front & back along with replacement u-bolt kit for the differential!
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Here I go adding to this older thread started last January of this year.
I am finally getting back into working on the car after a long and distracted summer.
The rear frame as as close to being ready as it can be to being welded into the car now.
I added the dual exhaust bracket today which I had saved from the original floor of the car.
Primed the top side of the rear floor pan and inside the rails as well.
I just have to prep the side rails a bit first then weld it into place once its' lined up.
I am finally getting back into working on the car after a long and distracted summer.
The rear frame as as close to being ready as it can be to being welded into the car now.
I added the dual exhaust bracket today which I had saved from the original floor of the car.
Primed the top side of the rear floor pan and inside the rails as well.
I just have to prep the side rails a bit first then weld it into place once its' lined up.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
BTW, if anyone knows which dimples I should be using to mount the seat belt anchors to?
There are 2 side by side on the rear of the floor pan and I don't know which ones to drill and weld the anchors to the floor.:tard:
There are 2 side by side on the rear of the floor pan and I don't know which ones to drill and weld the anchors to the floor.:tard:
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Glad to see you're able to focus back onto the project. You've been doing some fantastic work.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Added some satin black paint to the under side tonight. I figured it would be tons easier to paint and touch up later once ti was installed...
Sweet good looking work.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I am finally getting back to a concerted effort to finish the Polara
I dropped the rear frame section into place today!
I've also been rebuilding he rear wheel wells as well.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Insane how much you needed to cut out. I wouldn't have the ability to keep everything braced and lined up for fabrication and assembly. Impressive.
monaco75
Senior Member
Very impressive! Looks good. I'd be afraid of trying to line everything back up.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Looks good, keep the updates coming
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You can't get further down to bare bones than that.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
What did you do with the trunk floor that was damaged in transit?
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Well the *** end fenders wise was very strong as the PO had replaced the 1/4 panels and some how managed to line them up pretty decently with the rusted underbelly.
The outer shell is in really decent shape
The car did twist a little when I lifted it up to do the work but I shimmed it level then used the door seams as a reference point.
The right side spread a bit more than the left door so I lifted the right rear up to match the left side.
This was due to the fact that the PO had not lined things up correctly when doing the 1/4's to begin with
The scariest part was when I tried to support the car with jack stands from the back of the rocker panels and the entire back end started to sag backwards!
That's how much rot and rust was under this thing.
I had to support the rear of the car from the differential then dismantle the drive train then lower it out of the way in order to maintain the rear body in alignment
One the weight of the diff and springs was gone it the pucker factor dropped drastically!
If everything goes well this week. I am going to test fit the C2C trunk floor & side plates and be able to offer an opinion on the quality of the floor.
It doesn't have the same depth of ribbing as the factory floor but I am not worried about that because I don't plan to enter any 100 point car shows
So far now the wheel wells have been consuming a # of hours fabricating patches and welding them into place.
The outer shell is in really decent shape
The car did twist a little when I lifted it up to do the work but I shimmed it level then used the door seams as a reference point.
The right side spread a bit more than the left door so I lifted the right rear up to match the left side.
This was due to the fact that the PO had not lined things up correctly when doing the 1/4's to begin with
The scariest part was when I tried to support the car with jack stands from the back of the rocker panels and the entire back end started to sag backwards!
That's how much rot and rust was under this thing.
I had to support the rear of the car from the differential then dismantle the drive train then lower it out of the way in order to maintain the rear body in alignment
One the weight of the diff and springs was gone it the pucker factor dropped drastically!
If everything goes well this week. I am going to test fit the C2C trunk floor & side plates and be able to offer an opinion on the quality of the floor.
It doesn't have the same depth of ribbing as the factory floor but I am not worried about that because I don't plan to enter any 100 point car shows
So far now the wheel wells have been consuming a # of hours fabricating patches and welding them into place.
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