Solid state meltdown

[Big_John]

So after we correct the resistances and bad components that are causing charging system problem, we still have the resin trail to get rid of. My question was how to get rid of it without damaging firewall paint. @Big_John, any suggestions?

I did a little googling... and didn't find much that I think apply to the type of resin they used. What I really can't figure out is what kind of resin it is. I think it's newer than the coal tar based stuff they used in the 40's, but older than the epoxy based stuff they use now. It's probably closer to the coal tar than the epoxy.

Obviously heat does melt it... and obviously, heat that's not quite hot enough to melt the paint or it would just dribble down, destroy the paint and chip off. I don't think we've seen that.

While I don't know of solvents strong enough to dissolve the resin without dissolving the paint, it might be worth a shot. Break some pieces off and toss them in some alcohol or maybe some naptha and see what happens. Might even just be able to hit it with pressure washer and get a lot off... Gonna have to experiment.

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

Gasoline? Automotive paints seem pretty resistant to gasoline.

 

[Rustyrodknocker]

This stuff was pretty hard when I noticed it saturday, was probably 60 degrees out. The stuff on my coronet was gooey and sticky last November when I found it.

Great idea on breaking it off and trying some different solvents.

 

[Rustyrodknocker]

Well I had a few minutes of daylight so I got out to get some goo off the firewall and learned a few things.
First was that on the 73 Fury, both the Ignition module and the voltage regulator would actually leak down the heater box and not the firewall.
Next this car is not squeeky clean, its been sitting a couple years and was probably not clean before.
So of course the material can't stick to a dirty surface. This made it easy to remove for the most part.
Once off I tried some wd40 on it, this did not seem to break it down. But wd is pretty good as working as a surfactent in general. I have used it to loosen material off of surfaces with success in the past and is easy on paint.
Then I tried some ether because it was there. It did start to break it down so that it would get sticky like syrup. Urethane reducer had a quick thinning effect but of course that would not be good on paint. Sodium hydroxide also did a good job of breaking it down.
But probably what is most valuable and practical is that it is definitely heat effected and softens up.
A hot blast from a car wash wand may be all that's needed to get it off if it was stuck to a clean painted surface.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Thanks all. Book marked the thread.

 

[Moseman]

Well I had a few minutes of daylight so I got out to get some goo off the firewall and learned a few things.
First was that on the 73 Fury, both the Ignition module and the voltage regulator would actually leak down the heater box and not the firewall.
Next this car is not squeeky clean, its been sitting a couple years and was probably not clean before.
So of course the material can't stick to a dirty surface. This made it easy to remove for the most part.
Once off I tried some wd40 on it, this did not seem to break it down. But wd is pretty good as working as a surfactent in general. I have used it to loosen material off of surfaces with success in the past and is easy on paint.
Then I tried some ether because it was there. It did start to break it down so that it would get sticky like syrup. Urethane reducer had a quick thinning effect but of course that would not be good on paint. Sodium hydroxide also did a good job of breaking it down.
But probably what is most valuable and practical is that it is definitely heat effected and softens up.
A hot blast from a car wash wand may be all that's needed to get it off if it was stuck to a clean painted surface.

Has anyone had any luck in removing this resin from the heater box? I am at the point on my 72 Imperial restoration to rebuild the heater box, and I would like a clean surface, and the box is covered with this stuff? As the heater box is a fiberglass molded item, not sure if solvents or heat would be good on it?

 

[Big_John]

Has anyone had any luck in removing this resin from the heater box? I am at the point on my 72 Imperial restoration to rebuild the heater box, and I would like a clean surface, and the box is covered with this stuff? As the heater box is a fiberglass molded item, not sure if solvents or heat would be good on it?

Try a plastic razor blade. A little light scrapping shouldn't hurt the fiberglass.

Like these for example.

Amazon product ASIN B07W5Z2CBQ

 

[Rustyrodknocker]

Has anyone had any luck in removing this resin from the heater box? I am at the point on my 72 Imperial restoration to rebuild the heater box, and I would like a clean surface, and the box is covered with this stuff? As the heater box is a fiberglass molded item, not sure if solvents or heat would be good on it?

Don't ask me, I don't remember doing this or writing it.. I remember the mess..
Must be getting senile.

 

[ayilar]

@david hill has experience rebuilding the heater boxes

 

[david hill]

Here's what i've done with the heater boxs that I have refurbished. Stay away from razor blades to scrape the surface, just get a good spray degreaser and a soft brush and scrub that heater box down real well. And most of the dirt and grunge will come right off. secondly when you refinish, it just fine yourself A spray can of Rustolium Matt clear and just give it a real nice light dusting of paint and the original factory finish will return. It's petina will still be there. You gotta replace all those foam seals. I hope this gives you some perspective on how I would do it..

 

[Moseman]

Here's what i've done with the heater boxs that I have refurbished. Stay away from razor blades to scrape the surface, just get a good spray degreaser and a soft brush and scrub that heater box down real well. And most of the dirt and grunge will come right off. secondly when you refinish, it just fine yourself A spray can of Rustolium Matt clear and just give it a real nice light dusting of paint and the original factory finish will return. It's petina will still be there. You gotta replace all those foam seals. I hope this gives you some perspective on how I would do it..

Thanks, I have the seal kit from Detroit Muscle. I was going to paint the box. I will rethink that. Still, I need to get all of that old resin off. I will try some heat, then maybe go the sand route. If I do that, definitely I will have to paint it.

 

[david hill]

Thanks, I have the seal kit from Detroit Muscle. I was going to paint the box. I will rethink that. Still, I need to get all of that old resin off. I will try some heat, then maybe go the sand route. If I do that, definitely I will have to paint it.

Here are some photos of the finished appearance for comparison w/ matt clear finish.