cruisinwithsusan
New Member
The top on my 300 is sluggish at best. It needs a lot of help to get it up, so to speak. I'm looking for advice on what all I should replace and best source for the best parts. Thank you in advance.
Source for pump, hoses and all else necessary for sluggish top on 1970 Chrysler 300.
- Thread starter cruisinwithsusan
- Start date
There is a company that advertises in Hemmings Motor News every month; look for them in the Chrysler/Mopar section.
But, if you need a pump, the one used on your '70 is the same that was used for the next 20 years. I replaced the bad one in my '70 from one in a '98 in a junkyard. I paid 20 bucks for it. Works like a champ!
But, if you need a pump, the one used on your '70 is the same that was used for the next 20 years. I replaced the bad one in my '70 from one in a '98 in a junkyard. I paid 20 bucks for it. Works like a champ!
the system could be low on fluid or have air bubbles in the lines..........
cruisinwithsusan
New Member
Thank you. I'll investigate the fluid level. All new to me. Thanks again.
to check the fluid level and bleed the system you will have to take the back seat out
If the system is low, like an aftermarket electric fuel pump when first turned on, if there is air in the system, the pump will whine until the pump "hits fluid" and then it will get quieter as the top moves more and quicker.
Might also make a point to lube all pivots and such in the top mechanism. Not a dousing, just a dab to sink in and not make a mess. For good measure.
A convertible top pump is a convertible top pump. What's sold by most people is a universal-type pump.
The "fluid" which is spec'd for your car could well be brake fluid. Updating the cylinders and lines to use (the now more common) atf, commercial hydraulic fluid, or dedicated GM Convertible Top Oil might be in the future?
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Might also make a point to lube all pivots and such in the top mechanism. Not a dousing, just a dab to sink in and not make a mess. For good measure.
A convertible top pump is a convertible top pump. What's sold by most people is a universal-type pump.
The "fluid" which is spec'd for your car could well be brake fluid. Updating the cylinders and lines to use (the now more common) atf, commercial hydraulic fluid, or dedicated GM Convertible Top Oil might be in the future?
Enjoy!
CBODY67
cruisinwithsusan
New Member
Yes, now that you say it, that's what it sounds like. Can you offer any more insights on updating the lines and cylinders? Where should I look for those parts? I've yet to lay eyes on the cylinders and lines but have always worried about a line bursting and the resulting mess.
As I recall, there are a few major convertible top supplies and vendors, usually in FL or the east coast. Unless somebody in here has some experience, in the mean time, might do a Google search to see what's available? MIght be a tutorial on checking the fluid, in general, on YouTube?
I have not looked for Chrysler convertible stuff, but you could start with freedownloads of the parts manual and factory servcie manual at www.mymopar.com. That way, you can discover what the system is and how it might work.
Take care,
CBODY67
I have not looked for Chrysler convertible stuff, but you could start with freedownloads of the parts manual and factory servcie manual at www.mymopar.com. That way, you can discover what the system is and how it might work.
Take care,
CBODY67
Convertibles haven't used brake fluid since the 50's. If you think about it, the last thing you'd want in plastic lines that could leak is brake fluid.
It will be ATF and there should be a label on the pump.
The biggest thing that slows the top down is the electrical current drop from the switch and wiring.
I use a relay on my '70 300 vert and the top is much faster.
rags
Senior Member
same on my '69. i used a plow pump solenoid wired straight to the battery. top goes up like a catapult. had a leaking cylinder and replaced it with a new o.e. ford cylinder for a '97 mustang.
cruisinwithsusan
New Member
Now that you mention it, the old salt who helped finally replace the original top last year said, "funny thing, when I hooked the battery charger up to that car the top went just fine". Or something along those lines. Maybe some lube, fluid check and an electrical boost will do the trick. I'll check out the YouTube resources too. Great stuff, thanks.
Just having the car running while putting the top up/down helps too.
Well, apparently GM did not get that memo. Reason I say that is that my '68 LeSabre convertible specs "brake fluid" for it. Even recommends periodically wiping the extended rams rods with a rag soaked in brake fluid, to keep them clean. The service manual DID mention how bad brake fluid treated any paint or soft trim, so that advisory is there.
Google led me to a Buick Forums post where brake fluid was still used in 1966, so I suspect 1968 would be similar, if not the same.
But in the AACA Forums, was an image from a 1971 Cutlass convertible, with the orig pump, which had a label specifying "ATF", which would have been a GM Dexron item at that time. Did not mention Dexron specifically, though. Wonder if Type F would make it quicker?
What I figured out was that "convertible top fluid" had to be a fluid which was readily available in the boondocks, should it be needed, in any year. Even until the later 1960s, almost every service station had a gallon of brake fluid, for top-offs and brake system repairs. By that time, atf was also common, but usually "by the quart", although Exxon had some pint cans.
The issue with brake fluid is its desire to absorb moisture. Whether in a convertible top system or a hydraulic brake system.
After the 1960s ended, many service stations had a variety of fluids for sale, with more availability today with "free shipping" and all. I concur that atf is a better deal, but it can still damage some surfaces in convertibles. In any event, taking a samle of the fluid in the system, from the reservoir, would be advisable! Then proceed from there.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
From the 1970 Chrysler FSM. Section 23-68
"RESERVOIR
Do not add fluid to reservoir until it is installed
in its normal position in the vehicle. Adding fluid to
the reservoir in a position other than its normal
installed position does not allow for fluid expansion
and damage to the reservoir may result.
Measure fluid level only when top is lowered. After
filling reservoir, raise and lower top several times to
expel air that may be trapped in system.
Insufficient fluid in the system may cause slow
raising or noise in the pump or motor. Measure fluid
level and if low, look for a leak due to a broken line
or a loose connection. F i l l reservoir (use only A Q - A TF
Suffix " A " "Dexron" type transmission fluid) until
fluid runs out of f i l l e r hole."
@Big_John, NOT disagreeing or challenging, just that apparently GM was behind Chrysler in adopting atf in their top systems. Obviously, if any updates to the systems are made, they should be compatible with atf or similar.
Not trying to disagree at all... Just showing my source.
I'm actually surprised that GM still used brake fluid that late. Most of the convertible stuff I've seen is very generic and I would have thought that all the manufacturers had gone to ATF by then.
cruisinwithsusan
New Member
Whew, thanks. I was wondering.
Anyone familiar with ohms law?
Specifically when voltage goes down amperage goes up.
So operating these things with engine off this is hard on every electrical switch, motor, connection, etc.
start the car and run at 1100 RPM then run the convertible top and power windows.
yes lube the top everyplace it pivots. When was the last time it was done, at the factory?
Specifically when voltage goes down amperage goes up.
So operating these things with engine off this is hard on every electrical switch, motor, connection, etc.
start the car and run at 1100 RPM then run the convertible top and power windows.
yes lube the top everyplace it pivots. When was the last time it was done, at the factory?
Similar threads
