Another possible issue might be related to the ignition system. As soon as the engine turns over, good sparks should be happening, hopefully. Good sparks should ignite any fuel vapors which might be present, less so with "wet fuel" in a flooding situation. The best spark exposure to fuel mixture happen with the old "J-Gap" style spark plugs, where the ground electrode over-hangs the center electrode by only 1/2 or so of the center electrode. OR the later "fine wire" elecctrodes, as current NGK Iridium plugs are, with much greater exposure of the spark to the fuel/air mixture, for a better ZAP and fuel efficiency. Forget the multi-electrode plugs as there is only ONE ZAP per event, which will go to the "path of least resistance". Unless you have a multi-strike ignition system. With breaker point ignition, ensure the points are in good condition and of the correct gap/dwell. An electronic system would be good, too. In some cases, a 50KV coil might help?
Before the fine-wire plugs were readily-available, the original ACDelco RapidFire plugs had all of the known "tricks" in their design. The "cut-back" ground electrode, with a narrower end than the normal width of that electrode, for example. I believe that platinum pads came later?
NGK V-Power plugs were used OEM by Toyota (but not with the "V-Power" name), which is how I discovered them. The ground electrode had a "V" cut into it and it was also "cut-back", in a normal spark plug. As it was a normal-material spark plug, longevity was "normal", too. But I could tell that it worked well, especially8 on open-chamber heads (as the Chrysler LA) engines.
When I first read about the Champion J-Gap Racing Spark Plugs (back in about 1968), I liked the theory and spent about 2 hrs filing the ground electrodes on the J-14Y Champions in our '66 Newport 383 2bbl, then carefully gapping them to the .035" spec. In that motor, I could feel a slightly better throttle response off idle, but that was enough, so I continued doing it with each set of new J-14Ys.
Knowing that some fuel issues can really be ignition issues, it might be best to focus on BOTH rather than just "fuel", it seems, for a better outcome. But I also know that others experiences might be different from my own experiences. So whatever might work best is the "rule of the ages".
So, to me, the default mode is to get the fuel and electronics as good as they can be (i.e., to OEM factory specs) and then tweak from there. But ALSO using the "1/3 throttle" for starting, as our '66 Newport Owners Manual mentions, which I found to work well for all of our vehicles. Just enough throttle for the automatic choke to work (when cold), enough pump shot for a good cold start, and enough rpm as it starts, too. Eventually, YOU learn what the vehicle likes and responds to, rather than the other way around! Not unlike what we used to do in choosing the best fuel brands for each vehicle!
AND, for good measure, as you approach the vehicle, a kind and energetic dialog "Come on, lets go see what WE can get done today" can not hurt, from my own experiences.
Enjoy your Chrysler Products and treat them well,
CBODY67