strong engine mounts 1969 c body 440

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. Flemming Navntoft

    Flemming Navntoft New Member

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    are there any that can help me with some strong engine mounts that can't pull apart
    for my 1969 chrysler 300 with 440 engine and a link will be nice thanks
     
  2. livininharrow

    livininharrow Senior Member

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    shumacher makes mounts. but all you really need is stock mounts with an adjustable torque strap that they also sell.
     
  3. cbarge

    cbarge Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    2nd vote for Schumachers. Not cheap but well worth avoiding headaches later.
     
  4. ayilar

    ayilar Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    @71Polara383 installed Schumachers on my T-code '71 Monaco a few months ago. They are your safest bet for durability, at the possible cost of some smoothness (vibration transmissions are being debated among members, with some complaining about harshness while some have none). Mity Mounts are also available -- same deal, possibly smoother. I am trying out both.
     
  5. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I just went to the Schumaker site and just about everything is marked "out of stock".

    I was told a few times, from different sources, that they bought their mounts from Imperial Services. I think they (Imperial) is either out of business or has had some "issues" and they can't deliver. I have read a few complaints about them and their website is down, so I have no idea other than what I've read here and there.
     
  6. Flemming Navntoft

    Flemming Navntoft New Member

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    The same happening to me. Out of stück. I Will look at mity mounts i hope its a conplete set. And not only the rubber. I need the steel bracket also.[/QUOTE]
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2019
  7. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Well-Known Member

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    The simplest, cheapest, and MOST EFFECTIVE cure for preventing a broken engine mount (driver's side only) is two strong bolts through the mount. I did it to my existing mount, and the mod itself takes 15 minutes. Getting it out and back in is another story, but that's the case no matter what product you use.

    One bolt will work for 99% of our applications, but because I have a warmed 440TNT and an irreplaceable fiberglass Hurst hood that hates fan blades, I went with two 3/8ths bolts. Metrics work, too! :D

    1. File the heads so the mount will fit "almost" properly on the K-frame. I got them pretty thin, but with plenty of strength still there. Some guys have used countersunk bolts, as you can see in the pics below.

    2. If you're using your own mount, there's no need to disassemble it from the bracket. Leave it be, as you're drilling through the whole assembly anyway. If you're going with a new mount (even a cheapo China mount will work fine with this mod), bolt it to the bracket, torqued, etc, before drilling.

    3. Figure out where you want the holes. Drill a small pilot hole first, then drill the needed hole size in two steps, unless you have a powerful drill press.

    4. Insert bolts with heads down, washers are NOT needed. Put a drop of Loctite on the threads (or use a Nylock nut) and run the nut down to almost touching the mount. Almost! Leave a gap about the thickness of a business card and the mount will function totally normally, transmitting no vibes to the chassis with this small gap.

    5. Reinstall, done! This works perfectly, forever.

    This link that I found a year ago isn't currently working, but maybe it will come back up.
    http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=auldkin3miv7996f2auvtiec91&topic=13216.0

    Here's my pics:
    IMG_0512.JPG IMG_0513.JPG IMG_0514.JPG IMG_0515.JPG

    And some pics from various forums:
    100_9108.jpg 20170501_201221.jpg ajfijdsvijhuvdsjhu (1).JPG ajfdjvfjnkvb.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2019
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  8. ayilar

    ayilar Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Out of stock means little in that case. The way Engine Swaps (owned by Mike Schumacher, the seller of the Poly Loc mounts) fills orders is that you place the order by email, and then the store fills it when they are back in stock. Both an email and a phone follow-ups were needed in my case, but the first order was filled quickly after my phone call. The second order I tried to place in the summer was going to lead to a 4-6 week delay, so I passed.

    DynaTech Engineering (the seller of Mity Mounts) operates differently, and the phone conversation and delivery process were much more straightforward. MM are cheaper too, so I would recommend them if I had actually tried the mounts. I have not yet (despite buying them -- I have decided not to fix the car for which I originally bought them), so I can't recommend them personally -- but @saforwardlook thinks highly of MM (and Schumacher too), and I trust his recommendations not just 100 but a full 200%.
     
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  9. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    You could probably use a nice button head screw instead of a flat head.

    ARAC9857_a0?wid=1400&hei=778.jpg
     
  10. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Well-Known Member

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    Indeed, lots of options. And since you don't need to torque it at all, most any head will do. But it needs to be a strong bolt, 3/8ths, 2 1/2 inches long....and Depot didn't have a pan or button head that met those requirements. They had the countersunk items, but I didn't want to hassle with countersinking that robust steel of the mount. A couple of minutes with a grinder and a flat file resulted in a new specialty fastener that I call a "Skinny-headed Trace bolt". :rolleyes:
     
  11. FinFury

    FinFury Member

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    I've had mity mounts on my hopped up 383 in Challenger for ten years and 8000 miles. No problems yet, seems to be very nice product
     
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  12. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Well-Known Member

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    Also, I just noticed that my mount was Made In Korea, probably a loooong time ago, but it was in good shape. The engine was last out in 1998, so I'm assuming that's the era of that mount, too.

    IMG_0514.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2019
  13. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Well-Known Member

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    I just found this pic in my files of somebody who did the countersunk bolts. As you can see, it only lifts the mount a wee bit off the k-frame, the bolt still goes through, and all is well. My Skinny-heads gave similar results, the bolt went through the k-frame, etc.

    mount mod.jpg
     
  14. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    :rofl:

    Was wondering if you would pick up on that!
     
  15. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Well-Known Member

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    Wood screws probably won't work, either! :poke:
     
  16. C-Sick

    C-Sick New Member

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  17. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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  18. MrMoparCHP

    MrMoparCHP Senior Member

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    Even with a solid mount on just one side? The last time I had a failed mount was in 1985 on a 318, I'll deal with it when the time comes, a lot of nothing if your car is essentially stock.


    Alan
     
  19. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Well-Known Member

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    Makes my molars ache just thinking about solid mounts in a street car. Even JUST the driver's side......rtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtrtraaaaaattle....
     
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  20. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    Yea, the guys I knew with solid motor mounts on the street were always complaining about them. I've even heard of problems with bolts coming loose from vibration. Never knew one that just had one solid mount though.

    IIRC, there is also a theory about using a solid mount would slightly distort the block under hard acceleration or chassis flex. I think it was Grumpy Jenkins that talked about it in his book.