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Will a 63 unit fit any 8 and 3/4 housing? 63 still has tapered axle shaft's. Thanks
All 8-3/4 centers will fit any 8-3/4 housing regardless of style of side axles.
A lot of people actually convert the old axles to the 65-newer side axles.
Just double check the size of the U-joint since there are two different sizes,BTW.
Hope this helps.
Like I said two different sizes of yokes. is what you need to check.
And even if the yoke is different they sell a conversion U joint that fixes the problem!
cbarge has some wrong statements Posts 2 and 4.
The open differentials are different with tapered axles. The center block is 1.25” wide with tapered axles. The center block is 1.5” wide on 1965 and newer flanged axle. I’ll get photos so you will know how to tell the difference.
The 8.75 sure grips have a 1.5” wide center block or pins, cone or clutch style.
if you have a tapered axle car swapping to and from sure grip will be a problem. Your axle shaft length is different. Because of the center block size.
if you have a sweet center section from a 1964 or older mopar it won’t go in your slab, fuselage, or formal car. Because of the center block.
Chrysler Corp used 3 yoke sizes on passenger cars. 7260 7290 and The 1330 was used in 66 and 67 on some 8.75’s in B and C body cars.
First photo 1964 and older. 1.25” wide center. Notice the large rectangle block that fills all the space between the side gears and spider gears.
second photo 1965 and newer. 1.5” wide, same as a sure grip. Notice the smaller round shape and you can see the spider gear shaft and inside the gear area.
I learned this the hard way when the axle length was suddenly wrong and nothing would fit together any longer when it did previously.
View attachment 360982
Thank for clarifying the differences..I did no know that,sorry for any confusion.
No problem, glad to share the details. I learned a hard lesson and lost valuable time and $$
We usually don’t cross between tapered and flanged axles so many don’t know.
DR Diff was a huge help in sorting all this out.
There were longer axles for non sure grip cars. I think it continues all the way till the end of the tapered axles but I'm not 100%.
Yes! the break point is 1964 and earlier tapered axle, and 1965 and newer flanged axle.
Tapered axle shafts (1964 and older) with non sure grip are 1/8” longer than with a sure grip.
With a flanged axle all the axle shafts are the same length for sure grip and open differentials.
So I have a 65 housing , axles and all but no center section. I can take my non sure grip section out of my 64 and install it in the 65 housing? Thanks
From what these more knowledgeable guy's say, yes? I can't say for sure. One thing I will add to watch for is, Axle length, and axle housing width. I once went to replace a pitted axle on a '71 Chrysler, figured I'd use one from the '71 Dodge I was parting at the time. Nope, over an inch too long! Luckily I had another set of good axles from a '71 Chrysler.
Sorry to dredge up an older thread, but I purchased a Sure Grip out of a 69 Super Bee, going into a 65 Chrysler.
Did they commonly change yoke sizes between the marques and models? I'm thinking about just buying the 7260 to 7290 conversion u-joint to have it handy when I pop the old differential out. Will this be a waste?
Also, has anyone used the Dr Diff gaskets? Are these good or is there a more recommended gasket source?
I use Dr Diff for everything 8 3/4. I have also used the combo joint. It is a good option.