takes a minute to get oil pressure at start-up, 68 440

was beautiful here today, so had a chance to jack-up the 300, and change the oil, went with castrol GTX, 10-30 hi-mi. syn., and yes the pan is pushed up least .375- .5"certain the pickup is against the oil pan, so will go out tomorrow, and start her up, and see how quick, I build press.
 
man, read all the threads bout OIL, on the forum and it gave me a headache, probably should of went with a 10/40 but don't mind changing it again in the summer,first oil change since I owned it, and it was plenty black, usually change oil within the first week or two of ownership, but procrastinated[lack of funds] on this car, :BangHead: But the thing that really bugs, is the fact that the bottom of the oil pan is bent up and if I start it up tomorrow and the press. isn't up momentarily after start up, will fix that damn pan.... which brings me to my next question. can you remove the pan without pullin the motor?
 
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put a gauge on the 68 300 today and started her up,idiot light went out,right after she fired. looked at the gauge and it was 55,let her idle for a while and it stayed round 50, shut her down,waited a couple mins., then started her up,she showed 40-45,but know to fix the pickup, would have to remove pan. thx. all.
 
The pick up normally rides on bottom of the pan there is a shield/cover over the screen which keeps it up a 3/16-1/4. You should be fine as long as you don't expect to rev it to the moon.
 
was beautiful here today, so had a chance to jack-up the 300, and change the oil, went with castrol GTX, 10-30 hi-mi. syn., and yes the pan is pushed up least .375- .5"certain the pickup is against the oil pan, so will go out tomorrow, and start her up, and see how quick, I build press.

You really ought to consider another oil with a high ZDDP content. Your flat tappet cam and lifters will thank you for it. Go with something like Valvoline 20 / 50 Racing oil.
 
It's no secret that most BB engines are slow to build oil pressure after sitting or on cooler days. Having somewhat of a massive galley system to fill it takes a bit of time to trigger the sender located high and at the back of the engine. Another contributing factor is the way the engine oil flows through the engine compared to other manufacturer's power plants. The pressure time is perceived differently depending on weather you have an idiot light or actual gauge. It takes only about 5 to 8 pounds pressure to cancel a pressure light. Worn main bearings and other components contribute to a sense of pressure loss as the engine is started and using thicker oil to remedy is an indication of worn parts including the oil pump or plugging of the filter or at worse an oil pump with too much clearance at the rotors. Remember, oil pumps are of the "positive" type and can cause shearing of the pump drive shaft or total destruction of the drive gear if "stalled" to long. One of the latest inventions to ensure good "start up" oiling is the oil accumulator. With a bit of crafty planning these units can be installed "out of sight" and have proven to be an essential component especially on race engines and for people who have invested big cash in custom rebuilds. I will install one on my 512 stroker with an ignition activated solenoid. You may have severe sludge buildup in your oil pan, a restrictive filter or a clogged/collapsed pickup, either way don't ignore the situation or you will be contributing to an ever worsening situation. As one mechanic put it "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later.". Lifting an engine to remove an oil pan can be a massive job so try the obvious first even if it entails trying two different weights of oil and observing the difference on cold starts. Removing the oil pump and forcing air down the pickup port will temporarily clear the pickup screen and perhaps it's a good time to change the pump. Cut the filter open and have a peak inside for debris or collapse, you know, the usual diagnostic stuff.
 
You really ought to consider another oil with a high ZDDP content. Your flat tappet cam and lifters will thank you for it. Go with something like Valvoline 20 / 50 Racing oil.

Or add a bottle of this......AAP has it on the shelf.

content_4405_rislone_3x_zddp.jpg
 
thx. fellas all good useful info! this vehicle has ben on the back burner until warmer weather, but was really glad to get the oil changed and to see the good oil pressure on the gauge and as stated it gets its pressure sooner since the change, and the quality filter napa gold fil1515, I believe. Usually I change oil soon after ownership, but lagged on this car, plus did not drive much, but still is no excuse,will change oil again in the summer or pull the motor out, and straighten the pan or replace.
 
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