Techniques to remove the underbody protection?

I was thinking this recip saw blade would be much more robust than a a vibrating multi-tool. Maybe not.
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A Sawzall has a throw of about 2" and is pretty aggressive not to mention a large tool. With all the detail on the pan I think it would be way too much, don't get me wrong I love my Sawzall and and use it for things way beyond its intent, this isn't one of them.

Take it from somebody who has actually done this, Heat Gun and Putty Knife is your best bet!


Alan
 
I tried the vibrating multi-tool, with a soft scraping attachment.
In fact I even bought mine just for that.
But it's not really working much more efficiently than the other techniques ...
 
I tried the vibrating multi-tool, with a soft scraping attachment.
In fact I even bought mine just for that.
But it's not really working much more efficiently than the other techniques ...

I was just about to ask if anyone had tried that.
 
I can see the multi tool not working as the blade is working side to side. It would warm up the material just enough to clog everything. The reciprocating saw tool looks better as the blade moves forward and backwards. I'd recommend getting a cheap one from harbor freight (even though I don't like HF crap) as that way, if you destroy it, you're only out about $40. We used to use an oxy/acetylene torch with a scraper back in the day - as said earlier, it's an oil based sealant so watch out for fires and even more importantly Hot dripping stuff.
If chiseling it, pick a fairly cool day as the crap will be more brittle and more prone to being chiseled off.
It's a shitty job any way you look at it.
;)
 
Chrome58 I just noticed your avatar. I had a 59 Dodge Kingsway years ago back home.. Prettiest car EVER built, imo. It had a unibody from the plymouth 58, so still with the curved wings, but with that beautiful chrome 59 front (I don't know why they did that, but back then a V8 was also deemed too powerful for NZ so they were sold with a flat head 6).
 
Apparently gasoline works also.
Found out the hard way as the rubber tube at the sender leaked. Seeping gas stripped front edge of tank right down to bright metal!
 
Simple Green and time…

Interesting. But I'd caution against using Simple Green around any painted surfaces that need to remain painted. I found out the hard way that with a little soak time Simple Green will remove paint. Otherwise it's a great product that I use for a variety of things.
 
I have said this a couple times. heat gun and scraper, keep the blade HOT and the undercoating slides off. No fires, no drippy mess, no fire hazard (gas), no expendables.


Follow up with a sander (320) and you are good to go.


Alan
 
Interesting. But I'd caution against using Simple Green around any painted surfaces that need to remain painted. I found out the hard way that with a little soak time Simple Green will remove paint. Otherwise it's a great product that I use for a variety of things.
Thank you for the tip / experience!
I haven’t experienced paint coming off in using Simple Green. I used it on the inside of the fenders on my 65 Mustang and got all of the grime, road tar, etc. off, to the point where I saw the yellow crayon marks that were put on during assembly.
 
Apparently gasoline works also.
Found out the hard way as the rubber tube at the sender leaked. Seeping gas stripped front edge of tank right down to bright metal!
That's why you never undercoat the gas tank, I remember it was more of a problem by the filler neck as when you fill up and latch the gas filler nozzle to the max flow and it kicks and burps, gas would run down the neck and dissolve the undercoat making it a sticky mess to piss off a mechanic (me).

.
 
I am in the asbestos business, it’s worth noting here again that undercoating likely contains some asbestos. As another member said up above, you don’t want to breather that stuff. Go get yourself a P100 HEPA filtered mask from Home Depot (and shave your beard if you actually want to be protected). Lung cancer and mesothelioma are no joke.
 
Any info as to what year range that would have been?

I don’t have much in the way of specifics, but asbestos’ hay day was from the late 1940s through the 1970s. Still not completely banned in the US though. I remember reading an article a couple of years ago about how Australia’s recent asbestos ban caused a ton of problems for importing classic cars because the customs officers would take samples of a variety of gaskets, brake pads, and undercoating to see if they had asbestos. If they did (which they will), they couldn’t be imported…. Or at least something close to that. That’s when I took a closer look at the undercoating on my own 300 and said to myself ‘we’ll look at that, I am sure that stuff is full of it’. I never test it, but treat it like it is if I ever have to disturb it. Proper respirator, disposable coveralls, work with it wet.
 
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For the thick sound deadener I use a pneumatic needle scaler, colder the better.
On a C body I would but it back after the restoration, to help with quiet smooth ride.
There is also the thinner rust protection, black thin tar stuff. that washes off pretty good with varsol and stiff brushes. Also wire wheel in areas. (total combination of tools to use.)
Then I use a portable media blaster to get the tight areas, wiped it all down with metal prep, then painted to look like Chrysler primer/paint.
It is a long exhausting dirty job, do it in the winter, so you don't sweat so much in the disposable suits and wear respirator. It is easier laying on a creeper on your back, then standing under a hoist with neck bent. Rotiserie would be great, but if car stripped that much then have the whole undercarriage media blasted.

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